68 Dodge Coronet Restoration - 02/13/2021

[D Jay Hopkins]

My name is Jay Hopkins. I live in Antioch, CA. Lived in CA most of my life. I purchased a 1968 Coronet 500 Custom in 1978. I recently retired and it's time to get the car back on the road. Requested some info regarding manual steering on alterKation front suspension from RMS. Never received a response. Can anyone suggest an alternative? I appreciate any help - Jay

 

[polywideblock]

g'day from Australia

 

[Jerry Hall]

Welcome from Alabama, 68 Coronets are great.

 

[davek]

hello from s carolina,any pics?

 

[65-440]

Got nothing for ya on either of those...but here's my 68!

 

[davek]

thats sweet looking

 

[mr. b]

welcome to FBBO from Pa

 

[68sprtsat383]

Welcome

 

[D Jay Hopkins]

I bought the car from the first Owner in 1978. 2 bbl and 2.91 rear end because he towed his boat with it. He was an executive at Nave Dodge, Novato CA then. Rebuilt the stock 383 and slapped a 4 bbl intake and carb. Beat the **** out of it until 1985. Hasn't moved since. Retired Sheet Metal Worker - Local 104, SF. Ready to resto-mod the car. Would love advice on modular front and rear suspension. Can I get 550+ HP out of the original 383? The site wouldn't allow me to upload more than one image - Jay

 

[BrianS]

Welcome Jay I am just down the road from ya in Martinez!

 

[eldubb440]

it's hard to believe you got no response from RMS....... Bill is a regular stand-up type of guy and his stuff is top notch, you oughtta try again

 

[peabodyracin]

Welcome and congratulations on your retirement!

Could I suggest you consider QA1's front K member, strut rods and control arms. They actually used my 69 Coronet for their fit testing. Had the car all winter long, fitting all combinations of oem and QA1 pieces.
If you look on QA1's web site I think they still have the video showing my car (an orange one) and the components. After they were done I got my car back with all their stuff installed and was very happy with the conversion. Mine happened to be a manual steering car, but I know they test fitted a power steering version as well, because they borrowed my 69 Satellite wagon project car (with power steering) before the Coronet.

Best wishes on the project!

https://www.google.com/search?q=qa1...me&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_5nooYI6vO8SUtAbjmpfwCQ15

Found the link to the k member video.

 

[64fury74charger]

Welcome aboard from the Pacific Northwest, pictures are considered mandatory as we would like to follow along with you on this project.

 

[Jesse6869]

Do your research save money keep your stock suspension and upgrade it, been there done that you will get much feed back here asking u why, rack and pinion. As stated earlier bill always calls back not sure why no feed back. What’s are u really wanting to do? Road race, drag race, spend money?

 

[Hey-O]

Welcome from Missouri!!

 

[66383]

from Ky.

 

[D Jay Hopkins]

I would like the ability to drag / agility course the car. Thank you much for the advise on using the stock suspension(s) and upgrading. Don't want to waste the money if I can get the same performance with upgrades. I will begin a digital scrapbook once the car is on the dollies and post to the site.

 

[kiwigtx]

Requested some info regarding manual steering on alterKation front suspension from RMS. Never received a response. Can anyone suggest an alternative? I appreciate any help - Jay

Welcome to FBBO

I suggest you start a thread in the appropriate section for the advice you seek. Many more people frequent the other sections and will point you in the right direction.
Brakes, Steering & Suspension | For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum

 

[Budnicks]

welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

I use to know Antioch pretty well

I suggest you check out the Resto-mod & pro-touring forum here
also maybe the Racers Hangout too
some of that is covered in both sections,
even some in the General discussion section
also use the search option on the top right of each page

another vote for QA1

there are several different styles of steering boxes out there
many are bolt-in stuff
some are quicker steering, in both manual or power
changing the org. pitman arm to a quicker steer version helps too
(any of them could get close or interfere with larger exhaust/headers
or oil pan too, just do your research)

Unisteer makes a bunch of replacement rack & pinions
they also make some bolt in racks for B-bodies too
goes in the exact same place as the org. stuff does
with very lil' modifications to the car
the column needs to be cut & drilled (be forewarned)
I went that route, it is an Omni style rack (reverse rotation),
rear steer like stock (meaning the lower balljoint/tierods connections
are behind the centerline of the spindles)
I don't really recommend it, albeit it does work well
great feel, good handling, if you don't need big headers or a big oil-pan
but; it seriously limits the header selection & oil pan selections

many of the aftermarket rack & pinions 'are front steer'
tie-rods in front of the centerline of the spindles, like Pinto/Mustang II
you'd have to get a k-member designed for it or make some mounts yourself
& swap the steering/lower ball joints/side to side to front of the spindle

you can do simple upgrades
bigger diameter torsion bars
better firmer poly bushings
bigger strut-rod
bigger front sway bar & add good rear sway bars
(front s-b not the best for drag racing, you could disconnect it at the track)
good gas shocks (or adjustable)
lighter wider wheels & better wide tires/performance sticky tires

just that stuff alone is a night & day difference
far less understeer/push from the stock stuff

you could box the LCA's or go to a tubular design
you could go to either a tubular or adj. UCA's too

reduce overall weight etc.

lots of ways to make it handle better

that's a short description

lots of threads here discussing the very subject

you will get as many differing views, as suggestions
some are good & some aren't, depends on who you ask
to each their own

good luck

 

[D Jay Hopkins]

welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

I use to know Antioch pretty well

I suggest you check out the Resto-mod & pro-touring forum here
also maybe the Racers Hangout too
some of that is covered in both sections,
even some in the General discussion section
also use the search option on the top right of each page

another vote for QA1

there are several different styles of steering boxes out there
many are bolt-in stuff
some are quicker steering, in both manual or power
changing the org. pitman arm to a quicker steer version helps too
(any of them could get close or interfere with larger exhaust/headers
or oil pan too, just do your research)

Unisteer makes a bunch of replacement rack & pinions
they also make some bolt in racks for B-bodies too
goes in the exact same place as the org. stuff does
with very lil' modifications to the car
the column needs to be cut & drilled (be forewarned)
I went that route, it is an Omni style rack (reverse rotation),
rear steer like stock (meaning the lower balljoint/tierods connections
are behind the centerline of the spindles)
I don't really recommend it, albeit it does work well
great feel, good handling, if you don't need big headers or a big oil-pan
but; it seriously limits the header selection & oil pan selections

many of the aftermarket rack & pinions 'are front steer'
tie-rods in front of the centerline of the spindles, like Pinto/Mustang II
you'd have to get a k-member designed for it or make some mounts yourself
& swap the steering/lower ball joints/side to side to front of the spindle

you can do simple upgrades
bigger diameter torsion bars
better firmer poly bushings
bigger strut-rod
bigger front sway bar & add good rear sway bars
(front s-b not the best for drag racing, you could disconnect it at the track)
good gas shocks (or adjustable)
lighter wider wheels & better wide tires/performance sticky tires

just that stuff alone is a night & day difference
far less understeer/push from the stock stuff

you could box the LCA's or go to a tubular design
you could go to either a tubular or adj. UCA's too

reduce overall weight etc.

lots of ways to make it handle better

that's a short description

lots of threads here discussing the very subject

you will get as many differing views, as suggestions
some are good & some aren't, depends on who you ask
to each their own

good luck

It's later, and I am thanking you Mr. Budnicks. From what I have read, the 8 3/4 banjo rear diff is a decent

welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

I use to know Antioch pretty well

I suggest you check out the Resto-mod & pro-touring forum here
also maybe the Racers Hangout too
some of that is covered in both sections,
even some in the General discussion section
also use the search option on the top right of each page

another vote for QA1

there are several different styles of steering boxes out there
many are bolt-in stuff
some are quicker steering, in both manual or power
changing the org. pitman arm to a quicker steer version helps too
(any of them could get close or interfere with larger exhaust/headers
or oil pan too, just do your research)

Unisteer makes a bunch of replacement rack & pinions
they also make some bolt in racks for B-bodies too
goes in the exact same place as the org. stuff does
with very lil' modifications to the car
the column needs to be cut & drilled (be forewarned)
I went that route, it is an Omni style rack (reverse rotation),
rear steer like stock (meaning the lower balljoint/tierods connections
are behind the centerline of the spindles)
I don't really recommend it, albeit it does work well
great feel, good handling, if you don't need big headers or a big oil-pan
but; it seriously limits the header selection & oil pan selections

many of the aftermarket rack & pinions 'are front steer'
tie-rods in front of the centerline of the spindles, like Pinto/Mustang II
you'd have to get a k-member designed for it or make some mounts yourself
& swap the steering/lower ball joints/side to side to front of the spindle

you can do simple upgrades
bigger diameter torsion bars
better firmer poly bushings
bigger strut-rod
bigger front sway bar & add good rear sway bars
(front s-b not the best for drag racing, you could disconnect it at the track)
good gas shocks (or adjustable)
lighter wider wheels & better wide tires/performance sticky tires

just that stuff alone is a night & day difference
far less understeer/push from the stock stuff

you could box the LCA's or go to a tubular design
you could go to either a tubular or adj. UCA's too

reduce overall weight etc.

lots of ways to make it handle better

that's a short description

lots of threads here discussing the very subject

you will get as many differing views, as suggestions
some are good & some aren't, depends on who you ask
to each their own

good luck

Thank you much Mr. Budnicks. I appreciate your input. I needed an outside influence to keep me motivated on this project. This forum is exactly what I need to press on. Otherwise, I would continue to watch TV with my Wife. This car has been my best friend since 1978. She deserves a new life and will be my legacy. How much HP can I realistically expect to get out of this B block?