69 Coronet, 440 6 pack ex wannabee in Aus

[66Satellite47]

Each of my 6 Pak's got #6 Aeroquip to the fuel bowl with a large 3 port fuel block, 1/2" line from the electric fuel pump/trunk to the firewall. Large fuel bowl fittings.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Im about to start making fuel lines for the car. With a 440 6 pack, what fuel line size? 3/8? Do i need to run that vapour line in the boot? Is there a return line with the 6 pack carbs?

Yes. They sell the kits that have the 3/8" supply and 1/4" return lines. I'm sure shipping would kill you on that tho. But yes you need both lines and the vapor separator/filter that goes above the fuel pump.

 

[66Satellite47]

The '69 style 6Pak cars did not use a return line or vapor separator as I recall. May be wrong, but don't think so. As I recall the emission stuff didn't really get used until '71.

 

[Nxcoupe]

The '69 style 6Pak cars did not use a return line or vapor separator as I recall. May be wrong, but don't think so. As I recall the emission stuff didn't really get used until '71.

****, I should have read the thread title, lol. It was 70 when they put the vapor separator on, it wasn't an emissions thing, it was to keep vapor lock from happening.

 

[aussiewannabee69]

The '69 style 6Pak cars did not use a return line or vapor separator as I recall. May be wrong, but don't think so. As I recall the emission stuff didn't really get used until '71.

Ok cool, i have the one in the boot, i guess i will just leave it there. Can i change to a vented cap and remove the line in the boot? Does the vapour separator help in anyway other then emissions?

 

[GetX'd]

Just now seeing and reading through this whole thread. Sorry my Aussie Bro that you were taken advantage of on the purchase. Don’t know what you paid and it’s really none of my business. Just a few words of advice for your next purchase or any of your buddies thinking of the purchase of American Muscle - You’re buying an overseas 45 - 50+ year old car. Do what others do on this site - Post up what you’re looking at and ask for anyone that lives in the general area to scout the car for you. You’ll find any number of members willing to go and inspect the car in detail - pretty much always for free - and report back to you with their findings before you pull the trigger. I have done it myself several times for guys that are looking at a car generally in my area. People are happy to do it - it will save you a lot of grief and $$. Next time……

So now you have what you have and you’re doing some really nice work to bring it up to par. Thru the process you’ll learn an enormous amount that will always serve you well and in the end you’ll have a rock star of a muscle car - and you’ll deserve every inch of it. Good luck on the project and do keep us in the loop.

 

[aussiewannabee69]

Just now seeing and reading through this whole thread. Sorry my Aussie Bro that you were taken advantage of on the purchase. Don’t know what you paid and it’s really none of my business. Just a few words of advice for your next purchase or any of your buddies thinking of the purchase of American Muscle - You’re buying an overseas 45 - 50+ year old car. Do what others do on this site - Post up what you’re looking at and ask for anyone that lives in the general area to scout the car for you. You’ll find any number of members willing to go and inspect the car in detail - pretty much always for free - and report back to you with their findings before you pull the trigger. I have done it myself several times for guys that are looking at a car generally in my area. People are happy to do it - it will save you a lot of grief and $$. Next time……

So now you have what you have and you’re doing some really nice work to bring it up to par. Thru the process you’ll learn an enormous amount that will always serve you well and in the end you’ll have a rock star of a muscle car - and you’ll deserve every inch of it. Good luck on the project and do keep us in the loop.

Thanks mate, ah well we live and we learn. all in all, its not all that bad, ive heard of people having much worse luck. Unfortunately for me, i didnt know about FBBO prior to buying. Wish i did. SO many good people on here. It hasnt changed my mind on Americans or American muscle. Been to the states a few times and never met a bad person there and i will always continue to buy and love American muscle.

Thanks, im learning every time i tinker on it. And the best part of owning a Coronet in Australia, 99% of people have never seen one or heard of one. I get, thats a nice Charger haha.
Thanks i will do my best to keep the thread going.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Ok cool, i have the one in the boot, i guess i will just leave it there. Can i change to a vented cap and remove the line in the boot? Does the vapour separator help in anyway other then emissions?

Read my reply. The one in the 'boot' isn't a vapor separator, it isn't emissions, it is the vent that allows air to replace the fuel leaving the tank. No, you should not remove it. Hood luck.

 

[aussiewannabee69]

Read my reply. The one in the 'boot' isn't a vapor separator, it isn't emissions, it is the vent that allows air to replace the fuel leaving the tank. No, you should not remove it. Hood luck.

Thanks, missed it initially. Ok i will leave it in there

 

[aussiewannabee69]

So here’s the 6 pack carbs I have. I’m looking for a rebuild kit due to them sitting for 5 years not running. What’s a decent kit to get?
The carb numbers are
Front 0929 List -4393
Middle 1709 list- 4391
Rear 1709 list - 4394-4

Anyone know what year the carbs are from?

 

[Nxcoupe]

Get a holley kit, from Holley.

 

[ckessel]

Ditto on sourcing from Holley. You can get by with two kits though, don't need 3 if I remember correctly, from the 6 pack I had before on two of my cars. But considering your logistics, get 3 and have some extra pieces to set up a spare part box.

 

[66Satellite47]

It's been a long time, but Holley kit I got was excellent. It even included the parts for the '69 1/2 carbs and the '70-71. Not sure what the current kit is. Not sure why you would need two kits, but again mine was a long time ago. My recent experience with Holley kits is they still are good quality. Choose the correct kit.

 

[ckessel]

I remembered why I could get away with two kits. I had extra needle and seat units. I made up a couple of spare parts boxes with needle units, squirter gaskets, bowl screw gaskets[ get the paper ones, not the nylon. Nylon doesn't seal well], idle screw seals, pump diaphragms, bowl gaskets, main body gaskets, secondary carb jet plate gaskets, needle and seat adjuster gaskets[ two different ones there], fuel inlet fitting seals, main body to throttle plate gaskets, base gaskets to manifold, jets, power valves, pump cams, bowl screws, throttle plate to main body screws, spring clips, hairpin clips, secondary pot to main body seals plus some other stuff I can't remember right now. If you get a chance, grab up old carbs at a swap meet. You can harvest fasteners, bowls and many other pieces for your parts stash. One I liked to get was old spread bore carbs with mechanical secondaries as they have the 50cc accelerator pumps on them. An old carb was cheaper than buying the 50cc kit from Holley. Since you most likely don't have any resources close by for small parts like I listed, it would be wise to make up the spares packs. Also you should verify that the kits come with the secondary diaphragms. If memory serves me correctly, they are not included in the kit. They are also larger than what's used on the 1850, 3310 and many other 4bbl carbs. If they don't come with the kit, get 3 so you have one for a spare. If you want the part numbers for all of the gaskets and seals, let me know. I'll go through my catalog stash and find the numbers for you. When you get the carbs apart, put a straight edge across the main bodies to see if they are flat or warped. If warped, get a flat block of steel/aluminum/plastic or whatever is handy and sand them down with some 120-180 grit wet or dry sandpaper using water as a lube. You can put some dye on the bodies before you sand, can also use a felt pen like I did, then sand till they are flat. Warped main bodies cause all sorts of funky running issues since the various passages are not fully sealed to each other.

 

[aussiewannabee69]

I remembered why I could get away with two kits. I had extra needle and seat units. I made up a couple of spare parts boxes with needle units, squirter gaskets, bowl screw gaskets[ get the paper ones, not the nylon. Nylon doesn't seal well], idle screw seals, pump diaphragms, bowl gaskets, main body gaskets, secondary carb jet plate gaskets, needle and seat adjuster gaskets[ two different ones there], fuel inlet fitting seals, main body to throttle plate gaskets, base gaskets to manifold, jets, power valves, pump cams, bowl screws, throttle plate to main body screws, spring clips, hairpin clips, secondary pot to main body seals plus some other stuff I can't remember right now. If you get a chance, grab up old carbs at a swap meet. You can harvest fasteners, bowls and many other pieces for your parts stash. One I liked to get was old spread bore carbs with mechanical secondaries as they have the 50cc accelerator pumps on them. An old carb was cheaper than buying the 50cc kit from Holley. Since you most likely don't have any resources close by for small parts like I listed, it would be wise to make up the spares packs. Also you should verify that the kits come with the secondary diaphragms. If memory serves me correctly, they are not included in the kit. They are also larger than what's used on the 1850, 3310 and many other 4bbl carbs. If they don't come with the kit, get 3 so you have one for a spare. If you want the part numbers for all of the gaskets and seals, let me know. I'll go through my catalog stash and find the numbers for you. When you get the carbs apart, put a straight edge across the main bodies to see if they are flat or warped. If warped, get a flat block of steel/aluminum/plastic or whatever is handy and sand them down with some 120-180 grit wet or dry sandpaper using water as a lube. You can put some dye on the bodies before you sand, can also use a felt pen like I did, then sand till they are flat. Warped main bodies cause all sorts of funky running issues since the various passages are not fully sealed to each other.

Ok thanks very much. I’m still trying to find somewhere that posts the Holley kit to Aus. Holley themselves don’t post to aus according to their website. I’ve found a Walker Products kit. Are they any good? Also I’ve found some diaphragms. Say they are for 390-750 cfm. Does sound about right?

 

[66Satellite47]

Ok thanks very much. I’m still trying to find somewhere that posts the Holley kit to Aus. Holley themselves don’t post to aus according to their website. I’ve found a Walker Products kit. Are they any good? Also I’ve found some diaphragms. Say they are for 390-750 cfm. Does sound about right?

The 6 Pak diaphragms are NOT the same as the 4 BBL carbs. Very different.

 

[ckessel]

Your best bet if you can't get Holley would be to try from QuikFuel or one of the other aftermarket Holley specialists. I have not heard of Walker, so you would be smart to investigate. I remember from working at the speed shop in the 80's that many aftermarket carb kit companies used cork bowl/metering block gaskets[ leak city] and a needle unit that used a big brass jam nut to tighten against the bowl after adjustment. Those things are seriously bad news as the thread pith is 1-2 threads different than Holley and are guaranteed to strip the threads out of the bowls. The center carb bowl and be switched with a primary bowl on a dp unit or 4160 model that used the center pivot bowl if yours is damaged. The secondary bowls are special for 6 pack only. On our cars, the fuel inlet is on the rh side of the engine. GM's units were on the lh side, so you can't use a BB Chevy bowl for replacement. Also see if Promax is still in bizz. Another potential outlet for kits etc. They made a jet plate for the secondaries that allowed you to use screw in jets as opposed to the jet plate being a set size from Holley.
promaxcarbs.com
Another thing I did for my setup was to take out the lead plugs on the secondary idle mixture screws so they could then be adjusted. I modified a Delco point adjusting tool, made by CalVan I think, by pulling out the Allen bit and putting in a portion of a pocket screwdriver blade. Epoxied it in. The tool had a wheel on one end and a 90* gear drive on the other that held the bit. With that I could get at the mixture screws, especially the one on the rear. I wasn't concerned with oe appearance with the plugs being gone. The closest thing I found to what I had is the Motion Pro 90 degree hex driver carb tool from RevZilla. #P208552

 

[aussiewannabee69]

The 6 Pak diaphragms are NOT the same as the 4 BBL carbs. Very different.

Ah ok I will have a hunt around for some. Thanks !

 

[aussiewannabee69]

Th

Your best bet if you can't get Holley would be to try from QuikFuel or one of the other aftermarket Holley specialists. I have not heard of Walker, so you would be smart to investigate. I remember from working at the speed shop in the 80's that many aftermarket carb kit companies used cork bowl/metering block gaskets[ leak city] and a needle unit that used a big brass jam nut to tighten against the bowl after adjustment. Those things are seriously bad news as the thread pith is 1-2 threads different than Holley and are guaranteed to strip the threads out of the bowls. The center carb bowl and be switched with a primary bowl on a dp unit or 4160 model that used the center pivot bowl if yours is damaged. The secondary bowls are special for 6 pack only. On our cars, the fuel inlet is on the rh side of the engine. GM's units were on the lh side, so you can't use a BB Chevy bowl for replacement. Also see if Promax is still in bizz. Another potential outlet for kits etc. They made a jet plate for the secondaries that allowed you to use screw in jets as opposed to the jet plate being a set size from Holley.
promaxcarbs.com
Another thing I did for my setup was to take out the lead plugs on the secondary idle mixture screws so they could then be adjusted. I modified a Delco point adjusting tool, made by CalVan I think, by pulling out the Allen bit and putting in a portion of a pocket screwdriver blade. Epoxied it in. The tool had a wheel on one end and a 90* gear drive on the other that held the bit. With that I could get at the mixture screws, especially the one on the rear. I wasn't concerned with oe appearance with the plugs being gone. The closest thing I found to what I had is the Motion Pro 90 degree hex driver carb tool from RevZilla. #P208552

Thanks. I have emailed Promaxx for a shipping quote. There stuff looks the goods.

 

[aussiewannabee69]

I have started the tear down on the carbs. I have found they had the secondary hose blocked off. Is that a common thing? The fuel nuts were all stripped so i will have to get new ones of those. The metering plate was stuck on there and to get it off it’s now bent. If I don’t go with promaxx are they pretty common to buy? Also can anyone ID the intake. There are no markings