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69 Roadrunner 6.1 Hemi Swap

Torkmnstr,
Thank you for the ping! I needed it! Little disappointing but i'm currently at a stand still. Everything is complete, it runs and moves back and forward. Unfortunately I'm having a lot of trouble with the brakes. I have the tandem master from wilwood with a booster on it from Ram Man. I think the booster is from a later dart.
I bench bled the master twice, bled the system 5 times and still have a very short and stiff pedal. I called wilwood, no help. I called ram man and no help there either.
I need to order rims and tires as the final touches, but i've lost motivations due to this brake issue. Ill put some pictures up on the next post

Z
 
Installed some electric cut-offs
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A view from the bottom

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Front wilwood disc set up



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Overview... NO i will not be keeping those front rims, they are just in place so i can move the car around. The old 14" don't clear the discs.



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Engine bay Battery not installed.

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Hey we all get a little stuck sometimes! I just installed a big brake kit on my dads nova. I couldn’t bleed it for the life of me. I ended up bench bleeding and that solved all my problems. I didn’t know it was that much of an issue rather than just installing and pumping away....everything you’ve got is looking good though. I just pulled the trigger on a 392 swap for my bird. It’s been a long wait but there is light at the end of the tunnel!!!
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I have had an issue similar to what you are describing, mine turned out to be the rear calipers being suck. try jacking up the rear end, and see if you can turn the wheels easily. If the brake pedal is very stiff, it means the fluid cant travel, and move the pistons. Also would not hurt to have someone help you bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal.
 
Hey we all get a little stuck sometimes! I just installed a big brake kit on my dads nova. I couldn’t bleed it for the life of me. I ended up bench bleeding and that solved all my problems. I didn’t know it was that much of an issue rather than just installing and pumping away....everything you’ve got is looking good though. I just pulled the trigger on a 392 swap for my bird. It’s been a long wait but there is light at the end of the tunnel!!!
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What color did you go with on the bird? You should use the hellcat engine instead.
 
What color did you go with on the bird? You should use the hellcat engine instead.
It’s called Cana do fuceli, yea the kitty kat is way above my pay grade! I will just throw a blower on here at some point to reach those numbers.
 
It’s called Cana do fuceli, yea the kitty kat is way above my pay grade! I will just throw a blower on here at some point to reach those numbers.
The color looked like mine, I used the Granite Crystal from the modern Dodge vehicles. The guy I bought my 392 from had a hellcat for about 6k more, just couldn't pull that at the time. That is my current plan as well, was thinking of going the Procharger route at some point. What made you stay with the torqueflight, versus a 5 spd or manual?
 
No question how easily someone can have $50,000-$75,000 into one of these cars when following a build. Brake issue may be related to MC bore sizing, what size are the Wilwood bores and part # for calipers? Most of the time, you will go to a smaller bore MC to increase pedal travel and decrease effort (manual brakes, typically 15/16" bore size works well). Too large of a bore size, and you'll get a very stiff and short pedal. Great choice with the 6.1 & 4L60E.
 
The color looked like mine, I used the Granite Crystal from the modern Dodge vehicles. The guy I bought my 392 from had a hellcat for about 6k more, just couldn't pull that at the time. That is my current plan as well, was thinking of going the Procharger route at some point. What made you stay with the torqueflight, versus a 5 spd or manual?
Nice Dave, I think I might have asked you the same question at some point lol, mine is a ferarri color. As for the tranny thats an old pic, I am sticking a T56 Magnum XL in there. I went with the street version .50 OD, it will work perfect with my 3.91's and 18's 2K rpm calculated out to around 82 mph!!!
 
No question how easily someone can have $50,000-$75,000 into one of these cars when following a build. Brake issue may be related to MC bore sizing, what size are the Wilwood bores and part # for calipers? Most of the time, you will go to a smaller bore MC to increase pedal travel and decrease effort (manual brakes, typically 15/16" bore size works well). Too large of a bore size, and you'll get a very stiff and short pedal. Great choice with the 6.1 & 4L60E.

Front:
Im using the Wilwood https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-9917d for the front discs

Master Cylinder Wilwoos P/N# 261-13269 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-261-13269-p

Using the stock drums in the back, will post picture.

I bled them at least 15x the old fashioned way and i have a VERY hard pedal with barely any throw.

Side note: when i bleed the pedal travels the entire distants.
 
Def been at idle for a while, as you can see from the picture, the wife is expecting and my garage is loaded...

With all that going on I had the project put away from a while... But last night was the last straw.. got it running and finally drove it around the block. It time to work out all the little bugs and adjustment. oh boy!
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Hey Z, I love this build man. One question, are you keeping the rear tires or the front. The rears look better IMHO. Great job on the build.
 
Right on man, glad to see you didn’t give up on her. Mine is finally getting close too
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Thank you for the encouragement gentlemen, I have seriously lost interest.

I’m probably not going to keep either of the wheels my plan is to get a set of American racing style wheels I’ll see if I can find a picture and I’ll post them.
 
My latest issue has to do with the brakes.
The brake pedal is extremely hard, travel is very short and I really need to grab my steering wheel and jam on the pedal for it to stop the car.
I called Willowood and went through a bunch of diagnostics. I came to the conclusion that the pedal ratio for my brake pedal is too short. They told me that from the pivot hole down to the pushrod hole should measure somewhere around 3 to 4 inches. Mine only measured one and three-quarter.

Does anyone do you know where I can find more info about this do I just drill a hole in my pedal at 4 inches? The only problem by doing this is that the pedal is not completely going to be aligned with the pushrod to the power booster.
 
Don't go drilling anything until you know what's wrong.

Here's a laundry list of things to go through - pretty hard to remote-diagnose something like this otherwise:
  1. The factory pivot hole shouldn't be different between a non-power vs. power brake arm. Is it a stock brake pedal/pedal arm? It would really help to see a photo of this under the dash (just like the pics in the brake booster plate thread) to make sure we're looking at the right thing. Post the pic, then we can advise.
  2. What piston bore is the Wilwood master?
  3. What model of Wilwood calipers are they? Would help to have specs.
  4. Do you have a pic of the Ram Man booster you referred to in the other thread? See the following post I made to help ID the booster. I'm assuming it's the 8" Bendix: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ate-b-body-booster-fit.154071/#post-910992394
  5. What firewall plate do you have?
  6. What Z-bar do you have connecting the pedal rod to the brake booster rod?
Fill in the blanks and we should be able to assist.

-Kurt
 
I will continue on this thread for the questions. (should this thread be moved to the "hemi swap section?)

1. Understood, it is a stock brake pedal that came with the car. 69 RR with drums all around.
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