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'69 RR ignition

vitamin c orange

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The key won't try on my RR. It will turn to the left easily but it won't turn to the right to start my car. What do you think is wrong ? Any suggestions? Thanks
 
You could try to squirt some lube in it, but the lock cylinder probably needs to be replaced.
 
You don't have to replace it, take it apart and gently file the tumblers to get it to work smoothly again. You've got a rough spot on at least one of the tumblers and it is catching instead of mating up with the shape of the key. Mine did the same, it just takes some patience, finesse, and micro tools (ie, electronic tech type tools). Word of warning, very small parts and springs inside. Beware when you remove the cover of the lock cylinder or you'll have little springs flying everywhere and you won't find them. Did I mention patience and finesse?

PS. I call them "tumblers" for lack of knowing the proper term.
 
You don't have to replace it, take it apart and gently file the tumblers to get it to work smoothly again. You've got a rough spot on at least one of the tumblers and it is catching instead of mating up with the shape of the key. Mine did the same, it just takes some patience, finesse, and micro tools (ie, electronic tech type tools). Word of warning, very small parts and springs inside. Beware when you remove the cover of the lock cylinder or you'll have little springs flying everywhere and you won't find them. Did I mention patience and finesse?

PS. I call them "tumblers" for lack of knowing the proper term.
Yeah,what he says. I call em tumblers too. And you will be surprised how simple it really is.
 
Is that hard to replace?
No. Remove the bezel. You might need to tap it loose using a screwdriver in one of the slots. Mine was finger tight. After that is off it simply pulls out of the dash from behind. Pop the two safety latches on the plug and pull it loose and you have it in your hand.

With bezel attached
th


With bezel removed
th


With tumbler removed
th
th
 
No. Remove the bezel. You might need to tap it loose using a screwdriver in one of the slots. Mine was finger tight. After that is off it simply pulls out of the dash from behind. Pop the two safety latches on the plug and pull it loose and you have it in your hand.

With bezel attached
th


With bezel removed
th


With tumbler removed
th
th

Great job with the pics showing him how to get it out!

Now the real job begins with removal of that rectangular shaped metal cover on the lock cylinder! It really isn't that hard, just be careful of the springs and the order the "tumblers" are inserted in the cylinder.
 
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Great job with the pics showing him how to get it out!

Now the real job begins with removal of that rectangular shaped metal cover on the lock cylinder! It really isn't that hard, just be careful of the springs and the order the "tumblers" are inserted in the cylinder.
new switches are not expensive.it is over 40 years old i would replace any old parts i could with new if i could.
 
new switches are not expensive.it is over 40 years old i would replace any old parts i could with new if i could.

And "new" parts are NOT original and almost always not nearly as good as originals in both fit and function. If you like driving a new "Chinese" car versus an older "USA" made car with "USA" made parts, then go right ahead. It's certainly YOUR choice!

I have to ask you though, considering your stated approach to any car part "over 40 years old", why don't you just sell your WHOLE car and buy a new Prius? :realcrazy: You would get all those "40 year old" parts replaced all at once!
 
And "new" parts are NOT original and almost always not nearly as good as originals in both fit and function. If you like driving a new "Chinese" car versus an older "USA" made car with "USA" made parts, then go right ahead. It's certainly YOUR choice!

I have to ask you though, considering your stated approach to any car part "over 40 years old", why don't you just sell your WHOLE car and buy a new Prius? :realcrazy: You would get all those "40 year old" parts replaced all at once!
sorry to offend you.
 
sorry to offend you.
No, you didn't. I just wanted to make the point about aftermarket crap parts versus the original Chrysler parts. Very seldom is an aftermarket replacement part "equal or better than" the original it replaces. I'll attempt to restore an original part almost every time over replacing with the aftermarket crap. If I can't get the original repaired and working once again, then aftermarket might be my only choice. But I'll sure try, and try, and try again with the original first before tossing it aside. And more often than not, I'm able to repair the original part and keep it on the car.
 
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In the meantime, the key will turn if you find the sweet spot. My Sport Satellite did this for years. Put a little "English" on it. In my case, it was gently angle lift to the 1 o'clock position before turning.
 
new switches are not expensive.it is over 40 years old i would replace any old parts i could with new if i could.

Johnny, a couple of other things to consider here with the OP's original problem. First, the "Key won't turn" problem the OP has seems to indicate the fault is within the "Ignition Key Cylinder" not the switch. These are two separate components, and purchasing a "new switch" does NOT include an "Ignition Key Cylinder" with it. So then, if you purchase a new "Ignition Key Cylinder" to replace your original while keeping the original "switch", you then will have "Different Keys" for your "New Ignition" while your original door key cylinders use the "old" key. This situation is exactly what I was faced with on my car. I did not want two different keys plus a third one for the trunk to be able to operate my car. So that, along with my desire to maintain originality whenever possible led to repairing the original key cylinder. Just something else to consider in this particular instance.
 
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Johnny, a couple of other things to consider here with the OP's original problem. First, the "Key won't turn" problem the OP has seems to indicate the fault is within the "Ignition Key Cylinder" not the switch. These are two separate components, and purchasing a "new switch" does NOT include an "Ignition Key Cylinder" with it. So then, if you purchase a new "Ignition Key Cylinder" to replace your original while keeping the original "switch", you then will have "Different Keys" for your "New Ignition" while your original door key cylinders use the "old" key. This situation is exactly what I was faced with on my car. I did not want two different keys plus a third one for the trunk to be able to operate my car. So that, along with my desire to maintain originality whenever possible led to repairing the original key cylinder. Just something else to consider in this particular instance.
Agreed. I have the 3 key circumstance for years due to a replaced ignition.
 
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