Exactly. How every old barn guy turned into chassis builders in the last 10 years is simply magical.
70 Charger value?
- Thread starter Bleep Bleep
- Start date
Thanks again for the come back. I’ve heard a few other Charger experts convey the same sentiment about a straight body is one of the most important things to seek out. So, coming back here for maybe a little specific insights on your thoughts if that’s ok.
If I would go see the car in person of course, what aspects are key to gauge a best possible driver body and overall quality of the restoration. I’ve heard weld quality, and simply how straight it drives. What else is important to inspect?
Not sure how relevant, but understand the seller has owned it about 3, and the resto was completed by combination of himself and outsourced. He said he could drop his price to $55k. I am more than respectful of the many who advised here it’s worth less, some saying considerably less. I’m trying to get more specifics if possible.
I haven’t yet asked for detailed documentation of the renovation or possible more information on owner history. What else should I be focused on to distinguish if priced around market as presented? Because the car is a stretch on my budget, but for the “right” car and priced appropriately I would consider. I.e. Money is a factor.
Based on all that I don’t know the last thing I intend to do here is be disrespectful to those generous enough here to have shared thoughts. What would some of the highest priority areas I should pin Dow;before considering traveling for an in-person inspection. I get a good feel for the seller and would be cooperative with more questions. Maybe I just prematurely approached the group here?
Doing your homework and due diligence can turn your Charger owning experience into joy verses living with someone else's headache that has now become yours.
Thanks! Being brand new to the classic market, I’m learning along the way recommendations for what are most important for my due diligence.
Seller is on Facebook Marketplace. Need I say more? Anyway...
Seller says "8 3/4 Posi Rear End"
'70 Charger could have a Sure Grip, but never a Posi from the OEM
Seller says "3:23 Gears with Modular 3rd Member"
It isn't an R/T as already noted, but what was it born as...an XH29 base Charger and extensively modified or an XP29 Charger 500 and modified further during "restoration"?
BTW, I would have put a minimum of 3.55 gears in it.
It might have already have sold if it wasn't for not updating the interior to black/charcoal and not using an auto trans column.
Go look at the car. Consider it a learning experience. It can be your first "data point" in your quest for a '70 Charger.
Seller says "8 3/4 Posi Rear End"
'70 Charger could have a Sure Grip, but never a Posi from the OEM
Seller says "3:23 Gears with Modular 3rd Member"
It isn't an R/T as already noted, but what was it born as...an XH29 base Charger and extensively modified or an XP29 Charger 500 and modified further during "restoration"?
BTW, I would have put a minimum of 3.55 gears in it.
It might have already have sold if it wasn't for not updating the interior to black/charcoal and not using an auto trans column.
Go look at the car. Consider it a learning experience. It can be your first "data point" in your quest for a '70 Charger.
Last edited:
Thank you for the specific info. This helps very much. Attached are a few additional shots during resto. I got these after originally posting.
I’ll get the VIN but wondering if the shot tells originally a base or 500? Assuming base because that info hasn’t come up at all. He’d want to ref as an oem 500 if that was the case?
Oem green interior is what you were referencing vs changing to black? Interior stuff is not cheap right?
He did tell me he had the 499 stroker sitting around before he bought this about 3 years ago. I don’t yet know any details where he obtained, who rebuilt it, how long ago etc.
Pics appear to show he painted himself? Makeshift garage booth? So glaring flag there right? Greater risk of potential issues down the road - prep quality, what issues might be underneath?
What does ‘modular 3rd member’ mean? He referenced “a Hemi 18 spline transmission”. I don’t know what that is exactly? Related?
He also said the bumpers are black chrome. Is that black paint over chrome bumpers? Concern there? Same as above I assume.
I know there’s still many missing blanks I haven’t flushed out. Does this added info tell you anything else for my follow up with him? Or just run away??? Lol
Thanks as always!
Coelacanth
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I had to look up "black chrome" because although I've seen it, I wasn't sure how it's different to black paint.
What is black chrome anyway?
I was thinking if the bumpers were painted gloss black, that it was an alternative to doing a very expensive re-chrome process. And it looks like black paint would be more durable than black chrome, according to that link.
I have 2 bumpers for my '70 and I decided to have my main bumper, and my original rear bumper, painted to match body color. Cost savings is one reason but also because I am going for a different look than original with my car.
EDIT: I'm seeing a fair amount of orange peel in that paint, but to be fair, this forum downsizes high-res images to fit the site formatting, so without seeing the original pics (assuming they're much higher resolution), it's hard to judge the quality of the paint. In person is the only true way.
What is black chrome anyway?
I was thinking if the bumpers were painted gloss black, that it was an alternative to doing a very expensive re-chrome process. And it looks like black paint would be more durable than black chrome, according to that link.
I have 2 bumpers for my '70 and I decided to have my main bumper, and my original rear bumper, painted to match body color. Cost savings is one reason but also because I am going for a different look than original with my car.
EDIT: I'm seeing a fair amount of orange peel in that paint, but to be fair, this forum downsizes high-res images to fit the site formatting, so without seeing the original pics (assuming they're much higher resolution), it's hard to judge the quality of the paint. In person is the only true way.
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davek
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If you plan to spend big money you need to look at it yourself. Look at all the body numbers so you know what the car is. $60 for the car that is done, you can easily spend that on a car if you buy one and restore it. If that charger is done right he will sell it for that price. Thats why you need to look at it in person. JMO
Thanks for the info on black chrome. That was (another) new one on me.
Looks like he lap jointed the lower fender doglegs? Guaranteed he cut more corners than that. And keeping the green interior on an exterior color change to black, that is just dumb. Can you tell that I would be walking away from that one?
Yep without question. Maybe ecspecially since this whole business is new for me, by default I’m surely going to be more of a pita to a seller so I can learn lot more about the car than most here. This one is in Wyoming for example. No issue investing the time and cost. Need to be judicious is all.
Btw, on the point of in person inspection, I wonder how a prospective buyer inspects cars sold through an online auction like Bring a Trailer.
Yeah, pretty clear! lol. There are two pics in there I wasn’t sure what they were. Is that what you’re referring to lower fender doglegs?
davek
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Lol, good thing I have you around to set me straight Dave. I should have said lower fender....
#41
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The reason he will settle for $55k is BECAUSE he didnt change out the column, the green interior, chrome the bumpers, or put the RT door scoops on it. If he had done that he'd be asking $75k.
It does look like the fender patches are overlapped, which, if this car sees much moisture will eventually mean rust. The water splashes in there from the tire and seeps in between the overlap and then sits there. This would lead me to look very closely at how the quarters and other panel repairs were done.
I guarantee someone will be blinded by the shiny paint and pay $50k+ for it.
It does look like the fender patches are overlapped, which, if this car sees much moisture will eventually mean rust. The water splashes in there from the tire and seeps in between the overlap and then sits there. This would lead me to look very closely at how the quarters and other panel repairs were done.
I guarantee someone will be blinded by the shiny paint and pay $50k+ for it.
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