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70 Road Runner door glass channel runs

Tuco

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I bought these from Year One part #FD32230. After installing the glass it’s almost impossible to run the window up and down. The rear channel seems to run smooth. So it must be the front channel runs that are causing the problem.

I tried putting Sil-Glyde in the vent window channel but it doesn’t help.

Anyone have this experience with replacement channel runs?
 
Been covered by a handful of members here in their resto threads, me included. Depends when you bought the product, which profile of " H " sliders came with the mylars, etc, etc. Many renditions need trimming to work correctly. I'm on my phone or I'd link where, but covered in my Bee restoration (sticky at top pf members restorations) early 2019 I believe it was and also last year in my "I broke my 7up machine" thread repairing my Superbird.
 
Thanks Wayne for the info. I’ve been reading thru both of your threads and it sounds like I’ll have to trim the plastic shoes that fit in the Mylar.

The originals are long gone. I’ve ordered another set from Year One to try again.
 
Thanks Wayne for the info. I’ve been reading thru both of your threads and it sounds like I’ll have to trim the plastic shoes that fit in the Mylar.

The originals are long gone. I’ve ordered another set from Year One to try again.
When I did the Superbird in the Fall, those were the latest rendition. I got them from Jamie at Megaparts BUT they were just a relabeled Year One package. They worked MUCH better than the ones when I did the Bee.

Make sure the channel run is spotless, free of burrs and open it up a bit to free things up if need be. I ended up spraying mine pretty good with Crown Silicon spray to get them sliding nice. I'll see if they still work smoothly, if I ever get my Bird back from cut and polish.
 
When I did the Superbird in the Fall, those were the latest rendition. I got them from Jamie at Megaparts BUT they were just a relabeled Year One package. They worked MUCH better than the ones when I did the Bee.

Make sure the channel run is spotless, free of burrs and open it up a bit to free things up if need be. I ended up spraying mine pretty good with Crown Silicon spray to get them sliding nice. I'll see if they still work smoothly, if I ever get my Bird back from cut and polish.
I’ll keep that in mind. I think another issue is that the vent window assemblies are new reproduction. I’m sure they are not the same width as the originals. That’s the problem with all the junk reproduction parts. Nothing fits like the originals.

The way you did yours is definitely the way to go.
 
I'll probably catch some flak for this ....but WD-40 is a great lubricant for the fuzzies on windows. Should work on the glass sliders also.

I use it on sliding doors and windows all the time. It doesn't mark and excess can be wiped with a clean lint-free cloth.
 
Any updates on this? I just installed my new mylar’s in the wing track and they are more than tight! I got one side working fair to ok but too tight for my liking. The other side is a no go. It gets stuck less than half way in.
I while wheeled the track and used lacquer thinner to clean it out. The clips popped fully in place and measures no larger than the originals.
I am curious how you solved the issue and if it might help me….
 
Im at this part on my resto aswell, has anyone used appropiately thick textile tape as u seal around the glass edge for the front track to save a buck? Will it leak or bind? Did some measuring and in theory it should work.. The felt seals would cost around 220 euro and if the repros dont fit correctly either...
 
I destroyed one set of the “shoes” trying to get them in so I’m still waiting for the replacements for the pass window. The driver window is in but extremely tight. I’m working on lubing the channel and helping it up and down to see if it will free up. So far no luck.

I’m going to wait to take it back apart till I get the new ones. I think I will sand the new shoes down a bit to see if that helps.
 
I destroyed one set of the “shoes” trying to get them in so I’m still waiting for the replacements for the pass window. The driver window is in but extremely tight. I’m working on lubing the channel and helping it up and down to see if it will free up. So far no luck.

I’m going to wait to take it back apart till I get the new ones. I think I will sand the new shoes down a bit to see if that helps.
Tryed fitting without the shoes. After sanding mine down it was still tight. I put in the original shoes still too tight. Then I didn’t use any shoes still too tight! This tells me the material isn’t right. These have whiskers and if its too tight AND then we use lube then when dirt gets in there it will get gummy and eventually bind up again but worse.
So this is a real problem with these aftermarket mylars.
I am stuck right now too!
 
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Yep is breaking the door glass only option to disassemble? The fuzzy felt slider is really stuck trying to slide glass out, i need the frame.... If i pull any stronger its bound to crack
 
Yep is breaking the door glass only option to disassemble? The fuzzy felt slider is really stuck trying to slide glass out, i need the frame.... If i pull any stronger its bound to crack
If you are at that point I would try saturating the felt along the slide with silicone and have a helper pull with you. Make sure you don’t twist when pulling. The twisting is what would cause a glass breaking I would think. Maybe some of the other guys have some ideas as well.
 
I posted this in another thread. I am planning on printing some slider clips in the next day or two.

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Guys let me know if you need any of these window channel clips. I made some and they work with the old pins or .125 steel rod. I’ll just send them to you if you PM me your address/info.

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Got door glass installed with repro slide felts no problem, they seemed to have correct contour only needed to trim to lenght and punch holes for the plastic slide clips.

One tip, if you doing this by yourself and install the glass with window frame already installed in the door, leave the felt abit longer on the bottom so its easier to guide into the frame channel from top and wont catch an edge and break.

My repro door glass edge to quarter glass seal was rubber and causes some friction when cranking window down when door is shut... Dont know if there is more original felt style? With enough fiddling got it to seal and still able to crank it down however, not the simplest job
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