1986ed
Member
Also, after you spray water all over a panel, let it dry and then take some clean paper towels and wipe over it. It'll look orange, that's the rust forming already.
Yeah?
Also, after you spray water all over a panel, let it dry and then take some clean paper towels and wipe over it. It'll look orange, that's the rust forming already.
Yeah?
The only issue I have with this is that I've already primed about 75% of the car. I had planned to do another layer of primer over the whole vehicle after the individual parts were finished. Could I spray the epoxy primer over the existing primer or would there be an issue with it not sticking?If it were me, I'd stop spraying or brushing that primer and go to the auto paint store and get some epoxy primer. Here's why I am making this suggestion, in 2 parts.
1: I sprayed small parts during the summer months using a 2' x 3' piece of 1/8" sheet metal on a set of horses. Always put outside when done(it was from a wood furnace so no paint on either side.). Its bn 3 yrs in & out and I can only use the side with epoxy overspray because the other it rusted every square inch.
2: I have a friend that restored a 56' chevy and epoxied primed the entire frame once the body was removed, including the rear end(gm 10 bolt with the rear cover removed) and when it was time to rebuild the rear end, he could not get the primer off the bearing caps in the rear. It was never cleaned up internally before primer, just drained of lube & wiped, then sprayed till things could get done(6 years).
This is just 2 examples of how well todays epoxy primers are, even the value line. Its worth the $ & I'm convinced. If $200 eliminates some future problems, its money well spent.
Also, I have brushed on epoxy in hard to reach areas and had good results with no issues.
You could do it right or you can do it wrong for the cost of $150 more or less...
Good luck whatever you decide.