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71 Charger SE build

C'mon man, you can fix that little scratch!

I've got another question - how do you get the emblems off the c-pillar? They are pegged in rather well.
 
There is a speed nut on the back side. Got to take the inner panel off to access it.
 
awesome job!..... I missed this one, I've been warming up to the gen 3's....... love the aluminum slots!
 
Just finished the passenger side glass. Took about half the time the drivers side as I decided to assemble everything in the door then install the glass on the carrier. Still a PITA but it went together a lot easier. Now onto more fun stuff!

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There is a speed nut on the back side. Got to take the inner panel off to access it.

Apparently I don't have the right thing then. It looks like my badges are glued in on one side and I recall some kind of insert being used on the other side.

How about these clips that are somehow involved with the vinyl top? I've got one that appears to be whole, and the other was likely broken off when the previous owner removed the vinyl top (the car got a couple extra holes drilled in the roof then too). What are these clips called? Are they hard to replace?

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Speed nuts on the back side of those too.
 
Do you know what they're called/who has them?
 
Thread cutting nut is a better term I suppose, I always called them speed nuts. There is a stud on those and these screw on the stud.

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Sorry, I meant the clip on top of the roof. I've got to replace the broken one.

Are those things prone to leaking? It's hard to believe some water doesn't get in through them.
 
Vinyl top molding clips, They sell a kit, got mine on ebay from Vans. The original studs had a seal on them. I sealed mine with RTV when I installed them.

 
Vinyl top molding clips, They sell a kit, got mine on ebay from Vans. The original studs had a seal on them. I sealed mine with RTV when I installed them.

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Not trying to be a jerk here, just want to help out, so RTV is room temperature vulcanizing silicone,which uses Acetic acid as its activator. Hopefully you used something else that doesn't have acid in it. I had to fix a TA challenger that had RTV applied at a dealership to stop a leaking windshield. I had to put a roof on it. Just fyi, as it's an easy fix.
 
Not trying to be a jerk here, just want to help out, so RTV is room temperature vulcanizing silicone,which uses Acetic acid as its activator. Hopefully you used something else that doesn't have acid in it. I had to fix a TA challenger that had RTV applied at a dealership to stop a leaking windshield. I had to put a roof on it. Just fyi, as it's an easy fix.

I use Permatex ultra black which is non-corrosive.
 
Working on the interior plastic parts. These came out of the parts car and were in pretty bad shape but no chalking unlike the gold originals. Scrubbed them them with simple green, used SEM plastic prep and adhesion promoter. Then 4 light coats of SEM landau black. Waiting on the UPS truck with my new batch so I can get a good final coat on them.

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Picked up another steering wheel this week for the car. Even though the one in it is real nice, this one is next level nice! Has to be the nicest original I have seen.

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Delivery came and was able to get the rears done.

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Looking good!!
Started with black pieces, no color change, I cheated!! :lol:Used soap & water, then alcohol wiped them, grooves were tricky. After drying, plastic primer, 3 coats, then "dye", four coats, each lightly "dusted". No runs or clumps, job done.

Have complete green interior that needs to go.
 
Mine were all black too except for the rear arm rests. The black ones from the parts car were shot. I still have all the original gold faded panels. I just could not fathom what it would have taken to restore that gold interior.
 
Gold to black would have been questionable too, gold would bleed through over time, that is why I was happy my parts car had black interior, saved me $$$$ too!!
 
Replaced ALL the vapor barriers with thicker plastic too. Piece hanging over upper panel in this pic.

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