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71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

I was finally able to get the passenger side done today. Next will be the K frame

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All great information just doing a 71 satellite into a resto GTX Hemi 6.4 / 8 HP 70 car has just landed in Australia hope to have it in the next Month this is where i at waiting on the Terminator X max & Holley VVT mid sump

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All great information just doing a 71 satellite into a resto GTX Hemi 6.4 / 8 HP 70 car has just landed in Australia hope to have it in the next Month this is where i at waiting on the Terminator X max & Holley VVT mid sump

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Thats awesome, I've got a 70 RR sitting here waiting on a 572 Hemi that will be going to Brisbane.
 
Following along on this one. Exciting stuff!

My spring project is a Silver State T56 Magnum swap behind the Eddy headed 400 in my 72 Satellite. I’ve got most of the same reinforcement, suspension, and steering upgrades planned as you. Holley Terminator X is already on order also.

Mine has the Sure-grip 9-1/4 and front/rear cop brakes from a late 70s Fury underneath. I did a re-gear/re-build of the rear diff to 3.55s earlier this year, along with tubular UCAs when I swapped over the 12” front discs. I ended up running a K-car dual diaphragm booster with a late 80s M-body master (car was originally 4 wheel drums).

I’m super pumped hearing about the Dakota Digital gauges. I’ve been holding off on getting an original rallye/Tach cluster restored since I heard they may be coming out soon.

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Thats an awesome car, you have a great plan for her.

Like your screen name... I have a bit of a background in that. :)
 
How was the fit with the frame connectors I fitted a set to my Challenger & they needed a lot of work
They weren't too bad. I have installed quite a few of them and they all need work, one of the bigger tips is to beat down the floor some once you get them tacked in especially in the floor pan areas they get beat up over the years. Bottom line is that they are in no way a perfect fit to every ridge and depression on the floor and will require some filling in with the welder. I always use .035 wire for this task.
 
The one thing you learn by doing a number of these cars is that no 2 are made the same, panel fitment is very inconsistent. It can be a bit maddening if you are looking for perfection or symmetry.
 
I have not been able to get a lot done recently, however I did get the LCA's welded up and done. I have the K frame sitting on the welding table but haven't gotten to it yet.

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A few other things have been going on which are worth noting;

1. I ordered most of my interior parts from Mr Moparts in AZ back in June. On that list were door panels (upper/lower front and back). Well I just found out that they never ordered them and are telling me that I didn't despite them being clearly listed on the quote they gave me. So, I went to Classic and ordered them, they had the uppers but the lowers are on back order.

2. I ordered Wheel Vintiques 63 15x10 steel wheels for the rear of the car back in October from Jegs. When I ordered them, they were on back order but I kept checking. The note said "expected shipment 1/24/23", however I was looking around and Summit listed them "in stock" albeit $30 higher price. So after some thinking and checking I suspect that Jegs has no intention of selling me those wheels for the $222 but will keep postponing it. I ordered some from Summit last night and they will be here tomorrow... So now I need tires, thinking of going with 295/50R15 in the rear and 245/60R15 in the front.
 
The next issue I have encountered recently has to do with the transmission or better said the shifter location. As those who have read all of this are aware, I am using a TKX 5 speed on this build which Silver Sport Transmissions (SST) make specifically for the 71-74 B bodies, however it puts the shifter in the rear location like you would see in a bucket seat w/console car (or any E body). I want to use the forward mount which is where the shifter would be if you ordered a car with a bench seat or buckets with a buddy seat.

My car is already set up for this configuration so if I am going to use the TKX system as it is I have to cut out the hump and put a new "rear" hump in (not the end of the world). The other options are;

1. I could potentially reconfigure the TKX I have so that I could use the front shifter location. This would require me removing the tail housing and evidentially cutting some rods. I would then have to use the shifter plate/apparatus that is basically used in 70 B bodies with console which places the shifter back and to the left some. This would not be perfect but would get me "in the park".

2. Then there is the mother of evil plans... I could purchase an entire new E body kit except the trans would be a B body set up. The trans would go into this charger with the afore mentioned shifter deal. The TKX I have now would go into my 73 Cuda I built a couple of years ago which currently has a 23 spline A833 in it. The A833 along with all of the clutch bits from SST would then go into my 70 Challenger behind the 440 EFI 6 pack giving me a BB 4 spd car... LOL The down side to this plan is that it would cost a lot, like $6565 which is most of my "play" money. :rolleyes:
 
Here are some pictures of one of my transmissions somewhat mocked up with a shifter. For those who do not know, Mopar had basically 3 mounting locations for the cars (as far as I know);

Front mounting pads - A bodies, B bodies up to and including 70
Front mounting pads with a "dog bone" - 71-74 B bodies with the mid length shifter handle used with bench seat and buckets with buddy seat
Rear Mounting pads - All E bodies, 71-74 B bodies with buckets and console

Note: these pictures where for mock up and measurement taking. The dog bone does not use the aluminum mounting plate. There is a difference between the front mounting pads and the rear, ergo the aluminum plates are not interchangeable between the 2 locations.

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Got my rear wheels in from Summit today, ordered Cooper tires for them and the 15x8 front wheels.

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They weren't too bad. I have installed quite a few of them and they all need work, one of the bigger tips is to beat down the floor some once you get them tacked in especially in the floor pan areas they get beat up over the years. Bottom line is that they are in no way a perfect fit to every ridge and depression on the floor and will require some filling in with the welder. I always use .035 wire for this task.
Why is it easier to use an .035 wire for the subframe connectors? I thought it would be more likely to push through the thin metal on the floor pan?
 
Why is it easier to use an .035 wire for the subframe connectors? I thought it would be more likely to push through the thin metal on the floor pan?
Because the .030 or .035 being bigger fills bigger gaps easier and with sub frame connectors there is going to be gaps. I have installed them using .023 as well but at least in my case I end up having to make a lot of passes in some areas.
 
Just finished up going through your build, nice work!! Can't wait to see this come together, sounds like a pretty awesome car in the makings.
 
I am following along here and your attention to detail is amazing, and this car will be a very reliable driver. Thank you for your time and patience to post details and pictures as you work out all the situations that come with this level of truly building a car to your own specifications.
 
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