Thanks Cold!! Wanted to "offset" interior, it will be mostly black with the blue and touches of Mopar reds, ex-navy so going "submarine" theme, kinda.
72 Charger SE restoration
- Thread starter cold
- Start date
Interior's roof looked just like yours; sanded it, rust converter, primed it then just painted it last week: bad deal was c-pillars; loaded it with converter, primed then painted just to stop it from getting worse; cant be seen so pretty not important.
spenceryoung
Well-Known Member
I've been working on my 72 se for a while now hope to get it into paint soon. I have my dash mostly put back together just need to get some small parts for it and ill be good to finish it
Bb70charger500
Well-Known Member
Well dang look at all the 71-74 style cars getting fixed up!
We need to start a thread where we can just put updates and picture s and looking for stuff!
Sadly I'm without one right now I'm looking for a 73 hard top
But I got a bunch of stuff here for 72 if anyone is looking let me know
We need to start a thread where we can just put updates and picture s and looking for stuff!
Sadly I'm without one right now I'm looking for a 73 hard top
But I got a bunch of stuff here for 72 if anyone is looking let me know
Well, the thread is called "72 Charger SE Restoration"! All are welcome to post their 72 updates here!
And heck yes I'm interested in parts for a 72. Would love to get my hands on any good body parts and/or interior bits. Would love to get some original screws and bolts from the dash area, as ever since 25 years ago someone else had a mish-mash of odd bolts holding it together. Would love to have OEM stuff. I guess that'd mean I would have to fly to FL. Not a bad trip if I say so myself!
Bb70charger500
Well-Known Member
I'll get a list of what I have I can ship if needed not much body stuff left I know there's rockers drop downs front valance.lots of interior parts screw kit upholstery door panels door hinges new
I'll get a list
I'll get a list
An interior parts screw kit (including under the dash) would be AMAZING. I bought a generic one from eBay but I could definitely use more! Thanks!
As for today, I spent about 3 hours taking apart my bulkhead connector to see why I'm getting so much voltage drop. My connector cleaner kit came in yesterday, so I was really excited to test it out!
So I unclipped each connector, took off the bolts to the bulkhead connector base, and cleaned every connector with the solvent that came with it and the tiles that came with the kit. Then I took a small pair of pliers and tried to re-form the female connector ends so they would apply contact pressure to the male ends. Put everything back together and....!
.85 volts reading on the interior leads. I lost .15 volts!
I will say that when I took apart the bulkhead connector, I did notice some grease and silicone around some of the ends of the female bulkhead connector. The grease looked semi-transparent, sort of like dielectric grease (which is an insulator, not a conductor!). I think I need to do the method of cleaning each connector with brake cleaner, then soak in vinegar+salt mixture to fully lift off any grease and oxidation.
I was so hoping to get her started today! UGH! Oh well.
Oh! And here's some pictures of before. I'll snap some "after" pics tomorrow when I go back out.
The top-left is the power connector that's giving me so much trouble (so far that I know of), which I'm getting 12.5 in the engine bay on this connector.
The top-left is the power connector that's giving me so much trouble (so far that I know of), which I'm getting 12.5 in the engine bay on this connector.
Well fellas, I'm at a complete loss for words. I de-pinned the interior power wire again, soaked it in vinegar+salt solution for 10 minutes to eat away any corrosion, sprayed it with brake cleaner, dried it off, and then scuffed it up with a wire brush and a tiny file. Barely any improvement. I'm talking hundredths of a volt.
I connected the wire directly to the power connector on the engine-side connector and it still has a voltage drop directly at the connector. What the heck!?
I tested the resistance of the connector to make sure the outside of the connector wasn't too oxidized. Nope. From inside to outside, zero resistance. I triple confirmed that the engine-side connector had 12.5V. For some reason when you put this female connector on the male connector, I lose about 12 volts (while leaves about 0.35 volts).
Please, if anyone has any ideas as to what I should do (just shy of buying all new connectors) I would really appreciate any solutions to cleaning/repairing these connectors so I can move on from this blasted voltage drop problem. Much appreciated and thanks in advance!
Interior connector. Reading about 0.35 volts when plugged in. Zero resistance through the connector and to the positive wire on the ignition switch.
Engine-side connector. Positive connector on the top-left that's been cleaned and filed. Reading 12.56 volts here.
I connected the wire directly to the power connector on the engine-side connector and it still has a voltage drop directly at the connector. What the heck!?
I tested the resistance of the connector to make sure the outside of the connector wasn't too oxidized. Nope. From inside to outside, zero resistance. I triple confirmed that the engine-side connector had 12.5V. For some reason when you put this female connector on the male connector, I lose about 12 volts (while leaves about 0.35 volts).
Please, if anyone has any ideas as to what I should do (just shy of buying all new connectors) I would really appreciate any solutions to cleaning/repairing these connectors so I can move on from this blasted voltage drop problem. Much appreciated and thanks in advance!
Interior connector. Reading about 0.35 volts when plugged in. Zero resistance through the connector and to the positive wire on the ignition switch.
Engine-side connector. Positive connector on the top-left that's been cleaned and filed. Reading 12.56 volts here.
Bb70charger500
Well-Known Member
That's the one that always burns out. More then likely it's burnt under there where there's no connection! You can by pass the bunk head to save alot of money just snip on both sides run wire threw firewall get a rubber grommet and your in business
I can 100% attest that it's not burnt. These are both new wiring harnesses (engine bay and interior).
To reiterate, the actual female brass connector that's slid over the male connector is reading 0.35 volts. Brass-to-brass. I am not measuring volts down the line or anything.
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