72 Steering Column Rebuild

[JR_Charger]

Got the column out but I'm stuck on steering wheel removal. How does this cover come off?

 

[SMS68]

You have to pry it off gently. Use a plastic interior trim tool.

 

[JR_Charger]

So the faux wood grain center piece snaps in? I wasn't sure they were doing that in the 70's.

 

[SMS68]

I don’t think there’s a difference between 71 and 72. On my 71 there are metal clips on the center piece that press into these holes…

 

[JR_Charger]

Thanks, I like to know what kind of clips I'm dealing with before I start prying. And where they are.

 

[SMS68]

Thanks, I like to know what kind of clips I'm dealing with before I start prying. And where they are.

I hear that! It’s easy to mess something up and it’s not like parts are growing on trees.

 

[JR_Charger]

Is that little quarter circle of white I see down at the base of the shaft the plastic spacer bearing I've been reading about? I wanted to take a look at that, but I don't know where it is.

Is this crosspin supposed to come out so everything can come off the end?

I was thinking of replacing the rusted turn signal lever, but $40 is the best price I've seen on these. For that price I think I'll clean the rust off and paint it with clear.

 

[SMS68]

IIRC, the bearing/spacer should be in between the column and locking shaft or whatever it’s called. Circled in your picture. Mine was a floor shift so it just has a foam seal and retainer.

The other bearing is of course at the top of the column behind the turn signal switch.

I removed the shaft from the bottom so I left that cross-pin in place. The rubber boot and metal cover fit over it (or slide it on from the top before you install the shaft in the column.

 

[JR_Charger]

Hmm, so which is tougher to remove, the cross pin at the bottom or the top bearing? I'm going to have to remove the old coupler cover and replace it with the Bergman cover, which is larger if I remember correctly.

 

[SMS68]

Hmm, so which is tougher to remove, the cross pin at the bottom or the top bearing? I'm going to have to remove the old coupler cover and replace it with the Bergman cover, which is larger if I remember correctly.

I’d say if you already have it apart, go ahead and replace the top bearing too.

 

[JR_Charger]

What's the best source for the top bearing, turn signal switch, and ignition cylinder?

I found this 8 wire switch on eBay - Link

(mine is an 8 wire)

Reviews are good, can't tell from stock photos whether it has the wheel on the horn switch or a pin contact.

 

[SMS68]

I got my bearing and other column parts from Detroit Muscle Tech

Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC

Turn signal switch I used Shee-Mar SM111. Others recommended it and it was a good match. No wheel though, but I’m ok with that.

Got my ignition switch from local auto parts store.

 

[JR_Charger]

Today I managed to remove - a circlip. You know what's surprisingly useful here - a fuse puller. Pretty good way to pull that thing evenly up the steering column.

I was hoping the pictured tool would push the shaft out of the bearing, but the threads were different on both of the sockets.

So now I need -

C-4044 Steering Shaft Remover

C-4113 to remove the steering shaft locking plate

and maybe -

C-4132 Column Holding Fixture - if I need to remove the gear shift lever.

Looks like this stuff is either expensive or unobtainable. Gonna have to figure something out.

 

[SMS68]

I believe I just put a nut on the steering wheel threads and gently tapped the shaft to free the bearing. My bearing was shot though, so it wasn’t seated too well.

 

[JR_Charger]

I found a guy on eBay who makes a C-4044 knock-off. His version is built well and worked great. Now I've got to get the locking plate off. The FSM says there's a pin that has to be removed (with a special tool, naturally) -

-but I don't see a pin on mine. It looks more like it's been staked in place -

Surely it isn't actually staked in place. How did the locking plate come off in 72? I took that circlip off that the bearing rests on, and that didn't help.

 

[JR_Charger]

A couple more pics of the locking plate -

It looks like there is a separate collar above the locking plate, which is staked to the locking plate. I'm thinking, if that collar is removed, underneath it will be the pin that's holding the locking plate on.

The staked collar could be there to keep the pin from sliding out?

So how does the collar come off, and how is it replaced, and is it available?

 

[JR_Charger]

So the collar is a separate piece covering the pin. That's progress.

 

[JR_Charger]

Got everything apart and put new parts on - now I'm stuck putting the new bearing on. Anyone know what tool c-3879 even is? I can not find a picture of this part online, and the illustration of it in the FSM is conveniently missing.

Also I see there is a tool c-4134 or c-4157 coming up.

 

[JR_Charger]

Solved the last specialty tool problem -

It's just a piece of PVC pipe that I cut lengthwise with a hacksaw. I thought I might need to reinforce it with worm clamps, but it was strong enough on its own.

 

[JR_Charger]

The column is back in the car - I've got a wire crossed somewhere. The brake pedal turns on the brake lights and the side marker lamps, even if the ignition is "off" and the key is removed.

The horn and rear lights don't work, and the blinkies don't blink. Perhaps related to the above?

Things that do work - starter motor, wipers, interior lights, head lights (high and low).

I remembered to put the grounding wire on the bottom of the column. The bolts that hold the column to the front of the dash.

I replaced the grounding staple in the insulator around the steering column bearing, because I initially thought the staple was a piece of trash that fell in by accident. I doubt that's the problem, but I'll go ahead and mention it. Surely my new staple works just like the old one.

Also, the turn signal switch is a new unit.

Any ideas?