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73 charger rallye edition factory 440.

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not a bad weekend. ..
Still got time to mount the rear casters ..
 
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definitely have to weld up some steering locks for the rear casters ...4 wheel steering by yourself is not fun ..lol..
 
Nice setup! I wish I had something like that 20 years ago when I started my project. My dad tried to build a dolly out of wood and 300 pound rated caster wheels. It went about as good as one would expect. But we did get the car moved, so it wasn't a complete failure.

Question, I noticed you didn't loosen the shock mount and upper arms. Did the K-Frame just cleanly drop out?
 
Nice setup! I wish I had something like that 20 years ago when I started my project. My dad tried to build a dolly out of wood and 300 pound rated caster wheels. It went about as good as one would expect. But we did get the car moved, so it wasn't a complete failure.

Question, I noticed you didn't loosen the shock mount and upper arms. Did the K-Frame just cleanly drop out?

No..after I freed the torsion bars I jacked up the rotor and took out the 4 bolts on the uca mount ,swung the a arms to the side , lowered the k frame and then jacked up the rotor again and installed the 2 lower bolts to the mount . (It's sort of like a monkey with a football at that point )

My goal is not the suspension at this time ,so I was trying to keep things together as much as possible. .
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Ah, that's exactly what we had to do 20 years ago. I left one side completely together and took the other side apart to sand blast and paint. Do you want to take a guess which side was easier to find all the bolts for 20 years later?

I think when we put the k-frame back on we'll just leave the spindles, shock mount, and upper arms off until we get the K-Frame and engine bolted onto the car.

Also, nice use of a motorcycle jack. The picture reminded me that I wanted to fab up a removable skid plate to go from the lower radiator support to the K-frame.
 
Ah, that's exactly what we had to do 20 years ago. I left one side completely together and took the other side apart to sand blast and paint. Do you want to take a guess which side was easier to find all the bolts for 20 years later?

I think when we put the k-frame back on we'll just leave the spindles, shock mount, and upper arms off until we get the K-Frame and engine bolted onto the car.

Also, nice use of a motorcycle jack. The picture reminded me that I wanted to fab up a removable skid plate to go from the lower radiator support to the K-frame.

As you can see , I'm doing this at my house , with out "pro" tools .. I have a small race style jack from harbor fright , and that craftsman motorcycle jack. ( i use that at work to move transformers)
What an awesome jack ..love the big foot print ..
Yeah , when I first got the car and truck load of parts , I when through everything and bagged and tagged. ..as I'm taking apart. ..bag and tag ..
And the big stuff I'm leaving together as much as possible. .. after I'm done with the underbody, engine compartment, trunk bay, and inside. .the car will go to body ...then I'll have room and time to build the suspension. .and after paint , it will come home, take the fenders and doors off , then start assembly. ..with maybe a few trips to my mechanic for the fuel/brake lines (one of the benefits of owning your own rollback )

At least that's my plan as of now...
Never did my own car before.....
 
Ugh....today's unpleasant find ...
WIle killing time waiting for my cars appointment with the acid tank I started to work on the rearend. .wile pressure washing some bondo started to flake off the pumpkin. .
What the hell....awe come on...really. .
Ok..so the leak wasn't the gasket. .
Nope its from this ..
Umm....I don't even know where to go from here...I don't want to buy a new rearend..but I'm also going to build the 440 up to 600/650 hp...
So now what.? ? ? I have the ability to weld it closed , but is that the right thing to do ?
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I would just weld that up, do a little hammer and dolly work and carry on!
 
I would just weld that up, do a little hammer and dolly work and carry on!
Ok..what are your thoughts on welding it up with out taking the rearend apart? ?
I could use a zip gun and slidehammer to bring the dent out , then tack the holes shut...
What about fire ? ?
For sure some of the oil will catch , but I would think it would put it's self out due to no oxygen. ..? ?
I have plans for a "pro" to open it up for inspection and new seals ..but that's later..I would like to continue on with the cleaning and painting for now ..
 
Got my body back from the alkaline tank ,
Need to do some quarter work to fix a sloppy patch ,and I'm still in trouble for a passenger fender ..but other that that I did ok ..
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Well , it's been a while since I have posted , and the project has taken more time than expected..due to well , life , and some changes in the end goal...so here are a few pics of where I'm at now ..

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Some more , 4 link , viking coil overs, 29x15x15 on 12x15 rims .

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Everything is in epoxy primer except the lower quarters ..interior is shot with heat and sound block , underside is shot black with ceramic chassis paint ( with a smoke film on it from welding the 4 link ..oops)
I have a second longer set of viking shocks to go on whenever time allows, waiting on a custom efi fuel tank quote . Once I get the tank ,and mounted, I have to figure out fuel line routing, then after that , hopefully..body and paint ..
 
Just adding pics I may of missed
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