Uh, I don't think the cardboard mufflers will last too long!!!
Seriously, nice progress. I hope to be dropping my engine in within 2 weeks. We'll see how I do and if I can get it done!
Keep up the good work!
Hawk
Last edited:
73 Roadrunner 340 Auto
- Thread starter Builderguy
- Start date
Seriously, nice progress. I hope to be dropping my engine in within 2 weeks. We'll see how I do and if I can get it done!
Keep up the good work!
Hawk
What the paint looks like in natural sun.
Hawk,
They are test mufflers that I an not allowed to show anyone yet. Ya know, top secret development prototypes!
That is my story and I am sticking with it.
Hawk,
They are test mufflers that I an not allowed to show anyone yet. Ya know, top secret development prototypes!
That is my story and I am sticking with it.
That paint looks great. I am going to try it on my 74.
Sparky Anderson
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update, there's always next year for Carlisle, if I go next year, I will be looking for you, be good to meet you in person.
MoparJimT
Well-Known Member
Everything is looking so good. Man you do Great work. What are the paint Mark's on the headlight buckets? I do not recall mine having any.
I read it was so the line guys would just grab them by color and not have to look for a part number. They were there when I took it apart so I put them back on. I have seen other restoration with the same style of markings.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/16YAAOSw5EFfvEKI/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/16YAAOSw5EFfvEKI/s-l1600.jpg
MoparJimT
Well-Known Member
I went back through my pics when I was taking the car apart and sure enough there is a faint paint mark on 2 buckets. Another educational moment from Mr.Builderguy.
Two steps forward then one step back but I learned something. I will not use the Summitracing or mopar1 torque specs anymore. Instead I will use this one: https://www.tpocr.com/chryts.html because it is year(s) specific. Example: I was putting my exhaust manifolds on and pulled up Summit's info "30 lbs" which I thought was a little high so I checked it on
Mopar1 "also 30 lbs". Okay, fine, set the wrench and started to torque. Still thinking 30 was a little high I went in small steps. Didn't really matter, the outside bolt snapped. Great, so a 15 minute job now took about three hours to fix. I then checked on Tpocr and they listed 30 for a 1972 but only 20 for a 1973. Live and learn!!!!
Tried drilling and using an EZ Out. Afraid it was going to break and make a small problem a HUGE problem so I stopped and decided to just drill and tap it.
Back to where I started but at least done.
The other side went on just fine.
Mopar1 "also 30 lbs". Okay, fine, set the wrench and started to torque. Still thinking 30 was a little high I went in small steps. Didn't really matter, the outside bolt snapped. Great, so a 15 minute job now took about three hours to fix. I then checked on Tpocr and they listed 30 for a 1972 but only 20 for a 1973. Live and learn!!!!
Tried drilling and using an EZ Out. Afraid it was going to break and make a small problem a HUGE problem so I stopped and decided to just drill and tap it.
Back to where I started but at least done.
The other side went on just fine.
Breaking bolts sucks big time. Worse when taking them out and they are rusted in there!
Glad you got it sorted out.
Put parts on, take parts off, put new parts on again. The front end was pretty much done except for installing the calipers and pads. Easy right, not so fast. The original calipers, which were fine 18 months ago were now froze solid! I did source some new ones but that is a long story about shipping, warehouse issues, blah blah blah. Anyway, finally got them and tried to put them on but there was not enough room. WTF!!!!! Tried everything still NO GO. There was about 5/16" too much pad. So I ordered another set of pads (figured I got a bad set). While waiting I decided to put the brackets on. $%&#@%$# the brackets were jammed right into the rotor. HHHMMMMMMM something is not right. I had kept the original rotors and dug them out. They were at least .3125 thinner than my brand new ones. Ordered another set of rotors that are the correct size.
Bracket hitting the rotor
Fat rotor vs correct rotor
Original rotor vs NEW correct rotor
Now there is clearance between bracket (bridge) and the rotor
New rotor and calipers
Bracket hitting the rotor
Fat rotor vs correct rotor
Original rotor vs NEW correct rotor
Now there is clearance between bracket (bridge) and the rotor
New rotor and calipers
It's always a struggle with parts, and sometimes it is hard to see the issues until you spend a lot of frustration and time trying to fix it. Looks like you had one of those situations.
But, good on you. You figured it out and now are on the return path. It may not feel like it, but chalk it up as a victory.
But, good on you. You figured it out and now are on the return path. It may not feel like it, but chalk it up as a victory.
MoparJimT
Well-Known Member
Looking pretty awesome Mr. Builderguy. Had some similar run ins with new replacement parts install and removed, install and remove then had to go back to the original part recondition or rebuild them as best as I could. Seems like everything is made to cover such a large span of years that they fit most but not all.
Finally..... Off the rotisserie and ready to hang the sheet metal back on. It may not seem like a big deal but it is huge for me to have it one step closer. Metal on and then motor and trans in. Happy days are close. Next show is Sept 9th in Frankenmuth, MI Hope to make this one.
Looks great - keep at it and you'll make it!
Made a little headway in the last two days.
First fender goes back on
The better half helped out quite a bit with hanging the fenders and setting the gaps for the hood and doors.
Had to take a little break to paint the remaining J nuts and bolts but it is coming together
Now it I could just find the speed nuts and gaskets I could actually secure those grills.
First fender goes back on
The better half helped out quite a bit with hanging the fenders and setting the gaps for the hood and doors.
Had to take a little break to paint the remaining J nuts and bolts but it is coming together
Now it I could just find the speed nuts and gaskets I could actually secure those grills.
That is some of the problems with ordering part's. You cant go to a store and take you old part to compare. Suc!!!!!
71dodgechargerrt
Well-Known Member
Yes blocks can fail. Good to see the progress on your car.
Thank you for your concern about my safety. I have have been building homes since 1978 using concrete block, poured wall, foam wall modules, and pressure treated lumber as foundation material. Anything can fail, and just about when you say it can't, it does. But according to the rules and standards I have followed for over 40 years I will trust these dry stacked blocks. Here is the standard regarding how much weight a 8"x 8"x 16" concrete block can hold.
Standards. As per standards published in 2003 by ASTM, an international building standards non-profit, all concrete blocks must support at least 1,700 pounds of weight per square inch (PSI).
I think I will be okay.
https://www.hunker.com/13401218/what-is-the-load-bearing-capacity-of-different-sized-concrete-blocks
Standards. As per standards published in 2003 by ASTM, an international building standards non-profit, all concrete blocks must support at least 1,700 pounds of weight per square inch (PSI).
I think I will be okay.
https://www.hunker.com/13401218/what-is-the-load-bearing-capacity-of-different-sized-concrete-blocks
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