Left trunk drip rail
Next problem is the trunk lip
Next problem is the trunk lip
73 Roadrunner 340 Auto
- Thread starter Builderguy
- Start date
Ouch. That won't be so nice to fix - at least I would be pretty scared of dealing with that!
I agree. I would find a decklid or keep cutting as you can see more pin holes and heavy rust that will be sealed in to keep rusting inside...
Sparky Anderson
Well-Known Member
Keep up the hard work, u r doing a great job, plus u r teaching on how to tackle metal work, rust repair.
Yup Yup Hard to get ahead of the rust. I will be fixing the inside first but I need to keep the outside to keep the shape right. Once the inside is done I can remove all that rusted crap on the outside and then pinch it all back together. I scored one newer lid but I need it for the next car (73 4 speed) that has one in worse shape.
The pin holes aren't too bad. I can clean them up with a drill, use copper as a backer, and then weld them shut. The surrounding metal is pretty solid so it should work. Hard part is sealing the inside of the repair so it wont happen again.
Forgot to show a pic of the lower trunk drip edge, seal stop piece that I could not find anywhere. It is close but not exact, but close enough for me because it was a royal pain in the arse to make;
Did manage to pull the motor and trans, old school way since don't have a hoist.
Did manage to pull the motor and trans, old school way since don't have a hoist.
Got a few more things out today.
Garage is getting a little full
Found a little better picture of the trunk drip down, earlier one was a little dark
Also pulled the gas tank. Worst gas I have ever smelled. It was nasty. Outside of the tank is fine but the inside is looking pretty bad. Not sure I can save it. Will take out the sending unit and try the a few pieces of chain and some muriatic to get it back in shape. Maybe tomorrow if I have time. I will post pic of the process.
Garage is getting a little full
Found a little better picture of the trunk drip down, earlier one was a little dark
Also pulled the gas tank. Worst gas I have ever smelled. It was nasty. Outside of the tank is fine but the inside is looking pretty bad. Not sure I can save it. Will take out the sending unit and try the a few pieces of chain and some muriatic to get it back in shape. Maybe tomorrow if I have time. I will post pic of the process.
Just some shots for BEFORE of the engine bay and the trunk floor. Trunk floor looks worse than it is but is almost all surface type rust. Only a couple of pin holes. Will wire wheel it out and see what is left. Now that everything is out of the car, I have more projects than I have time to do. Thinking of getting the body in epoxy before doing any motor, trans, or drive line work. Would feel a little better once the body is sealed up.
Only real concern about the trunk is a hit that it took to the bumper. I have that straightened out along with the support and the mounting brackets (should have taken pictures of that). Anyway, the hit was hard enough to push the right side of the left trunk mount in a little on the bottom. I have a port-a-power but bracing it in the trunk will be a little difficult.
Only real concern about the trunk is a hit that it took to the bumper. I have that straightened out along with the support and the mounting brackets (should have taken pictures of that). Anyway, the hit was hard enough to push the right side of the left trunk mount in a little on the bottom. I have a port-a-power but bracing it in the trunk will be a little difficult.
Love the FY1 Lemon Twist with black stripes. 340 Column Auto. Keep up the good work and posting pictures with updates.
Picked up all the stuff to clean the inside of the tank.
Started taking pictures of the inside of the tank for a before/after comparison.
Then took some shots of the outside of the tank since I would have to clean that up also. It was then that I noticed someone had repaired this tank sometime. Now I wonder if it is even worth saving. A new bright and shiny tank (the look I was going for) is about $140. Anyone think of any reason why I should try and save this tank. It is a numbers matching car, for what that is worth, and it is pretty much original (except the radiator). Would not think an original tank would be the tipping point of buying the car. IDK
Started taking pictures of the inside of the tank for a before/after comparison.
Then took some shots of the outside of the tank since I would have to clean that up also. It was then that I noticed someone had repaired this tank sometime. Now I wonder if it is even worth saving. A new bright and shiny tank (the look I was going for) is about $140. Anyone think of any reason why I should try and save this tank. It is a numbers matching car, for what that is worth, and it is pretty much original (except the radiator). Would not think an original tank would be the tipping point of buying the car. IDK
Buy a new one.
I tried saving my tank from my 1970 Road Runner and it totally wasn't worth it. I still ended up with crap in my carburetor from silt I had missed. Plus people who want numbers matching care about VIN, engine, trans and body stampings. I really don't think anyone would care about a new tank. Save yourself the time and hassle and spend that time on other things more valuable (like the bodywork).
Good luck whatever you decide.
Hawk
I tried saving my tank from my 1970 Road Runner and it totally wasn't worth it. I still ended up with crap in my carburetor from silt I had missed. Plus people who want numbers matching care about VIN, engine, trans and body stampings. I really don't think anyone would care about a new tank. Save yourself the time and hassle and spend that time on other things more valuable (like the bodywork).
Good luck whatever you decide.
Hawk
hsorman
Thanks for the info, especially about the carry over of missed silt. Pretty sure replacement is the best option.
Thanks for the info, especially about the carry over of missed silt. Pretty sure replacement is the best option.
Here are some pics of the bumper, support, and brackets. I forgot to take before photos
If you were looking and couldn't find it, I marked where the bend was.
There is rust where the guards were mounted but it is all under the guard. I should be able to clean and seal this to prevent any further damage.
If you were looking and couldn't find it, I marked where the bend was.
There is rust where the guards were mounted but it is all under the guard. I should be able to clean and seal this to prevent any further damage.
Just a quick question about this K frame. The left side welds look okay but the right side welds look like a chicken **** on it.
I never paid much attention before, but was the manufacturing process in the early 70's that bad, that the welds look like this?
At first I thought it had been hit and someone replaced a piece but there are no witness marks inside. I was thinking about grinding it out and putting in a new weld, but then where do you stop. Not a high HP motor and it has lasted this long
I never paid much attention before, but was the manufacturing process in the early 70's that bad, that the welds look like this?
At first I thought it had been hit and someone replaced a piece but there are no witness marks inside. I was thinking about grinding it out and putting in a new weld, but then where do you stop. Not a high HP motor and it has lasted this long
Sparky Anderson
Well-Known Member
Thanks for info, I will look at my K member when I get there, stay safe with this virus going on. Keep up the great work and again thank for the pics.
The K-member on my 1970 looked absolutely horrible. Looked like someone drunk and who had never welded before did it. What you have looks "factory".
I can't find a good picture, but here is one from back in the day.
I can't find a good picture, but here is one from back in the day.
Hawk,
Thanks for the photo. I had time today to take the K-member apart and look a little closer at the welds (top, bottom, and side). It does look like crap but it did have good penetration so I am going clean up the splatter and leave it alone.
Thanks for the photo. I had time today to take the K-member apart and look a little closer at the welds (top, bottom, and side). It does look like crap but it did have good penetration so I am going clean up the splatter and leave it alone.
Here is the K-member, just taken apart. thought it was going to take awhile but it only took about an hour to strip it down.
Now it will take weeks to clean it up, paint it, and put it all back together again.
Now it will take weeks to clean it up, paint it, and put it all back together again.
K-Member splash guard. This shield looks like someone put it on as an afterthought. Is this what the original looked like and how it was mounted (couple of screws to hold the back)? Looks like a POS to me. I saw some members state that this splash shield directed more water to the back mount than it stopped. Thinking about just pulling it off. Thoughts?
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