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8-3/4 gasket

Where is it used on an engine?

Water pump housing, water pump and thermostat, freeze plugs for the most part. My Nissan thermostat has no gasket, metal to metal, and grey is what I use.

For the trans, I use permatex aviation form a gasket on the paper, o rings and cork (one side only!) Seals great.

I tried indian head on sn intake gasket and wasn't impressed as it was still wet a few days later where it was exposed.
 
Water pump housing, water pump and thermostat, freeze plugs for the most part. My Nissan thermostat has no gasket, metal to metal, and grey is what I use.

For the trans, I use permatex aviation form a gasket on the paper, o rings and cork (one side only!) Seals great.

I tried indian head on sn intake gasket and wasn't impressed as it was still wet a few days later where it was exposed.

Orings too? I usually just apply lube to them. Why one side only to cork? I was planning to use clear auto silicon for the freeze plugs but I'll take another look at the gray specs.
Sorry for all the off topic questions but I'm about to start my engine assemble soon and this is good info.
 
Orings too? I usually just apply lube to them. Why one side only to cork? I was planning to use clear auto silicon for the freeze plugs but I'll take another look at the gray specs.
Sorry for all the off topic questions but I'm about to start my engine assemble soon and this is good info.
You could do both side of the pan gasket but it would be a huge mess if you had to take it off again. Yes, orings on the trans because I hate doing things twice. Grey onnthe freeze plugs!
 
I ended up using Ultra Grey...what a goopy mess to work with but looks like it should do the job.

Here's the 489 with fresh 3.55s.

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This my very first install of these pigs and it's freakin heavy. I've swapped entire rear ends but not the pig.
I wasn't sure how I would get it under the car and up onto the housing. I'm not as strong as I think I used to be!

It fit on my jack comfortably and was stable to roll along the floor.
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I cleaned both faces with laquer thinner to remove any oil residue and applied the grey RTV, smoothing it evenly with a small brush. This RTV has the consistency of carpenter's glue, so it tends to ooze a bit.
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Up to the housing and snugged up. I later torqued it to 45lbs in an alternating pattern. It was fairly easy to slide from the jack to the housing thankfully!

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I found this article helpful regarding RTV.

Permatex has several different types of sealants. Most of which are RTV, but some specify use in anaerobic situations where there isn't any air to do the curing. I will try to break out the different types of sealants and how they are utilized:

  • Anaerobic (color unknown) - Used where no air will be present after being applied. This product would probably work well for under water situations, such as boat jet drive, or as a temporary fix to replace an o-ring.

  • Gasket Makers
    • The Right Stuff (Black) - This product is for general use and can be utilized almost anywhere and in any kind of situation. It boasts a quick turnaround so you can get your equipment back into service quickly. Many OEM manufacturers use this product on their assembly lines. It is good from -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids, and is sensor-safe.
    • The Right Stuff 1-Minute (Grey) - Specifically designed for high torque situations. Permatex boasts a "torque and go" attitude with this product. This product is specified by many non-US manufacturers. It is good up to 450°F (232°C) continuous; 500°F (260°C) intermittent.
    • The Right Stuff (Grey) - Basically the same as the 1-minute type. It just takes a little longer to cure and go back into service.
    • Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance (Black)) - Used in areas where oil resistance is a must. This would be oil pans or valve cover gaskets. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.
    • Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature (Copper) - As the name implies, to be used where high temps are present. I've used this stuff on my header gaskets at the collector with good results. It helps seal the gasket and helps it last longer as well. This product is good up to 700°F intermittent. It works to seal liquids as well.
    • Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque (Grey) - Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent. Used where you'd expect to need more flexibility than normal.
    • Ultra Blue Multipurpose (Blue) - As the name implies, this is an all purpose gasket material. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent. OEM specified for a lot of different applications.
    • Sensor-Safe Blue (Blue) - General use RTV. Will not foul O2 sensors. ature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.
    • High-Temp Red (Red) - Universal, but can be used in hi-temp situations. Not as high temp as Ultra Copper. Temperature range -65°F to 650°F (-54°C to 343°C) intermittent.
    • Sensor-Safe High-Temp (Color unknown - Assume black) - Same as the High-Temp Red, but is won't foul O2 sensors.
    • Water Pump & Thermostat (Color unknown - Assume black) - Specified where high concentrations of water and glycol are present.
    • Automatic Transmission (Color unknown - Assume black) - Specified for automatic transmission pan gaskets. Resists tranny fluids.
    • Gear Oil (Color unknown - Assume black) - Used on differential housings to seal in gear oil.
  • Gasket Sealers
 
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