8-3/4 sure grip only pulls 1 tire mark

[kiwigtx]

 

[Wayne Mueller]

View attachment 1166493

Early style sure grip is better if you can find 1. Last longer and holds better than cone style.

 

[66Satellite47]

The Power Lok is simple rebuild, the clutches used to be readily available, replace the left hand screws and Loctite them. Use a good torque wrench to tighten the case halve screws with the Loctite. Not sure how available the parts are today. A 489 case and R&P are good with the old style limited slip, if you replace the crush sleeve with a spacer and shims like the 742 case. JMHO. But I did switch to a Dana 60. My application was a drag car with 450 + HP on the 8 3/4 & later 600 with the Dana 60. Never broke any Dana 60 stuff.

 

[Wietse]

I will keep my eyes open but the likelyhood i will come across a clutch type sure grip is small, and if i do it will have a price tag like its made of gold.
I liked the idea of a repair as that will save me buying a new one.

I am not racing the car and it will not see that much abuse, the 440 in the front would push out 450-ish HP as well i guess.
Thats maybe why the cones have given up!

 

[66Satellite47]

I will keep my eyes open but the likelyhood i will come across a clutch type sure grip is small, and if i do it will have a price tag like its made of gold.
I liked the idea of a repair as that will save me buying a new one.

I am not racing the car and it will not see that much abuse, the 440 in the front would push out 450-ish HP as well i guess.
Thats maybe why the cones have given up!

My understanding has always been that rebuilding a cone type is complicated. Look around to find some one that has experience at that task. Good luck.

 

[Wietse]

My understanding has always been that rebuilding a cone type is complicated. Look around to find some one that has experience at that task. Good luck.

From what i found is that there are plenty cone-type sure grips have been machined and are functioning 100% again.
Machining down the end of the cone makes sense, when contact marks are found there it means the cone piece bottoms out on the nose in the housing which causes the cone/sides not to "engage" the tapered housing.
Machining down .030" - .040" of the nose and shim the gear reinstates the function of the cone again to ensure it grips on the sides before bottoming out with the nose.
Even Doctordiff sells shims and gives instructions on how to repair them.

If you wanted to be rough you could grind it down with an angle grinder
Serious, machining a bit off on the lathe or milling machine would do the job.

 

[66Satellite47]

Go for it. See if it works.