833 woes

[300]

Same old thing, can't get trans in, New clutch,trans everything, trans collor won't go into bell, crank to face of bell 8-7/8", face of trans to end of pinion shaft 8-5/8"
Used one of those plastic alignment tools ?
New pilot sleeve. Cars on hoist, just a pain

 

[miller]

Right splines? Count 'em if you have to. Or could be a hangnail, or galled spline. Best to dry fit new parts.

 

[The Horvaths]

Miller makes good points. As well, common causes are: pilot bushing/bearing fit, too much thick grease inside pilot shaft recess, wrong clutch alignment tool diameter.
I try to ever-so-slightly lift tool to center clutch against gravity before tightening pressure plate. Also, try deliberately putting transmission in at a very slight angle, up, down, left, right. Ideally, you want to match the angle that the tool was at.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Ive had problems getting the trans in because the input shaft will not go into the pilot bushing. They fit out of the crank, but once driven into the crank they get compressed and the input shaft wont fit anymore

 

[uwss]

Mine slid right in with NO issues. So, you need to stop and look at everything CALMLY.

 

[300]

I took another measurement and changed it on post
Shaft to face of trans 8-5/8"
So it's going into pilot. Mmm
Maybe clutch alignment
Take it all apart, going to start over
Pain

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I took another measurement and changed it on post
Shaft to face of trans 8-5/8"
So it's going into pilot. Mmm
Maybe clutch alignment
Take it all apart, going to start over
Pain

The input shaft has to go through the clutch disc before it gets to the pilot bushing. It would be impossible for the shaft to go into the pilot if the disc was not centered

 

[MoparMitch]

I don't really advocate this, but in the past I have drawn the transmission home with the bolts. If you are careful and alternate tightening the bolts. You can tell when doing this if the bolts feel like they are binding or getting too tight. This happened to me on a RR build where the new paint was too thick around the bell housing hole. Wouldn't allow the input shaft cover to slide easily into the bell housing. Worked for me. Just be careful.

 

[coloradodave]

Another aid. Take a couple of 6" long 7/16" coarse bolts and cut the heads off. Thread them into the top two holes in the bellhousing. These will act as dowel guides to help you keep the transmission centered and to hold some of the weight. As was said, too much grease in the pilot bushing / bearing can cause the input shaft to 'hydraulic' and refuse to seat. How far does the transmission go in before binding? I know 68chicken said to try pulling it in with the bolts, and to be really careful, but I would not recommend that. Figure out the problem and it'll slide right in...

 

[300]

It goes in and stops about 1/4"" from face of trans to bell, actually shaft collar on trans hits on one side, got a shaft of another trans with no collar on it, same thing. You can see shaft is off to one side, Mmmm. Clutch off ??

 

[coloradodave]

Sounds like it. Do you have an actual extra input shaft? Not talking about a plastic one. If you can locate one, try to realign the clutch disc with it, assuring that the input is perpendicular to the face of the bellhousing. Also make sure that the pilot on the input shaft is 'dropping into' the pilot bushing/bearing.

 

[OSDart]

Im having the same issues. Finally got the trans bolted up and now the imput shaft never stops turning. Glad it was still on the lift with the tires off the ground when I fired it up. With clutch depressed and in any gear, the tires rotate. Clutch is working fine. Trans went into the pilot bearing fine. Then it's hell the rest of the way. I'm wondering if someone drilled the crankshaft and didn't get it centered. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and post what I find.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

What do you mean it went into the pilot bearing then it was hell the rest of the way? The last thing you go into is the pilot bushing. That hell you were having was the input shaft going into the pilot bushing. The brass bushing gets slightly crushed when you put it in. The input shaft no longer fits.

 

[dvw]

Hook up the pedal and Z bar. Put some studs in the bell housing. Wiggle the trans up as far as it will go. Have a helper depress the clutch. The disc will be able to float then wiggle trans all the way in. You did slide the disc on the trans input before installation to check fit, didn't you? I like to use the roller pilot bearing that presses in the cranks converter hub recess. Some cranks that were built for automatics may not be drilled deep enough for the input shaft causing it to bottom out in the crank.
Doug

 

[mopar 3 B]

Some cranks that were built for automatics may not be drilled deep enough for the input shaft causing it to bottom out in the crank. Yep if this is the case do not drill to deep. Did you press the pilot bushing in or drive it in? If you drove it in with a hammer you have more than likely mashed the end of the bushing and decreased the hole size.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Measure from the tip of the input shaft to the face of the tranny where it mates to the bellhouse. Be sure your pilot bearing is in the flywheel deep enough. Measure from the flywheel bottom of the pilot hole to the face of the bell house to be sure there is enough depth. ----Make sure your throw out bearing tool will go inside the pilot bearing and has enough clearance to install fully and remove easily. To tight will make your input shaft turn with the flywheel even with the clutch depressed. ---- Make sure the bearing retainer on the front of the tranny will fit into the bellhouse hole. Measure with a caliper.........................................MO

 

[300]

I got another input shaft ( steel). Going to take it all apart and start over using it,
Yes did all my measurements, 9" from crank face to bell face, input shaft is standard mopar 8-5/8", Probaly something simple ( usually is)
Going to check pilot sleeve when I get it all out, and clean up inside of it etc
How many of you index and dial in your bellhousings?
Thanks

 

[miller]

Now I know why I stay with 727s!!

Hey, 300...gonna hate me saying this, and wouldn'd blame you a bit if you ignore it.
Just assuming you've had the 833 bolted up before, right? Or is this a change up?

Anyway. On one of those things, everything MUST be lined up right, before it's going to fall into place. Tranny, clutch, shaft should all slip right in. That being said, and you already have things back in your lap, you might try this...
Sure, I know it's a pain!! Leave the clutch pack on the floor, and stab the 833. Using the line-up dowels like Dave mentioned is a big help. Why do this? To make sure the tip of the input shaft will bottom out into the crank, and the 833 case will bottom with no resistance.
While the clutch is still out, look over the splines, to be sure they are clean. Nothing that will hang up the shaft. If all looks good...go for it. Just take your time, and don't force it in. If things are lined up right, that thing should fall right into place. (Your not tighting your clutch bolts are you? Should be slightly loose, get everything lined up, and stabbed first, before you tighten 'em.)

 

[300]

Thanks Miller, that's what I'm going to do, this is a change up
Everthing is new, Thanks

 

[miller]

Ah ha! Up jumps the devil (in the details).

Take your time with it, guy. It'll go, if it's gonna.