A theory on pulling front drum brakes - I need some schooling!

[sam dupont]

do you have photos of the brake assemblies? Wear marks on the shoes and drums? There may be an issue somebody would notice. If you have a worn out drum, I would cut it in two so I could slide it over the shoes and see how they move when the brakes are applied. I would want to see that right front do its thing.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

Can you set that rascal up on a fairly level countertop/bench with the ends setting down and take a picture??
Further - would you be willing to sell it/ship it to me?

Here are the pictures you asked for I can check what shipping will cost this weekend and get back to you

 

[moparedtn]

Here are the pictures you asked for I can check what shipping will cost this weekend and get back to you

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Zip is 37857. Thanks!!

 

[moparedtn]

Have any drums been machined or turned or are you using glazed drums?

That can be a problem, but it would change with swapping drums and different drums.

The arcing of the shoes to the drum is a real thing. You could be using only half of the shoe surface on a drum that has been machined bigger.

do you have photos of the brake assemblies? Wear marks on the shoes and drums? There may be an issue somebody would notice. If you have a worn out drum, I would cut it in two so I could slide it over the shoes and see how they move when the brakes are applied. I would want to see that right front do its thing.

Gentlemen, at the sake of answering all manner of questions like yours again....
Instead, I offer the threads wherein I kept a running tally of all efforts made thus far on the car for your perusal:

DRUM Brake Overhaul - Now, for something totally different...
Drum brakes, all new, pulls left hard, hub still gets HOT
I'm going back to manual adjustment on my 11" front drums ('68 GTX)

There have been still more, but I'll refer to the site's Search feature instead for those.
Suffice to say, all you've suggested has been gone over/eliminated as possibilities - but the purpose of this thread
was simply to ask if the sway bar could be a contributing factor.
Actually, it doesn't matter anyways if it is or isn't - I know the bar I have needs replaced regardless.
Thanks.

 

[oldbee]

I’ve been thinking way too much!! Sway bar couldn’t do it unless it’s overloading the the strut rod/lower control arm. It’s nothing but an anti-torque tool to stop body roll. Something in alignment/body is going out of spec while you’re rolling OR “maybe “ a restricted brake line going to rt.frt.??