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A833 wont go in 2nd on hard acceleration

It's been years since I last worked on my charger, but last time I did, I had a shifting issue:

68 charger 440
A833 4 speed Hurst shifter

Rowing through gears just cruising - no issue at all. Smooth and clean shifts.

When I get on it, 1st to 2nd shift doesn't work. Just won't go into 2nd at all. I can jump to 3rd no problem. I can slow down and downshift into 1st no problem.

If I remember correctly, I would have to slow down, go back into 1st and it would go through gears again fine if not flooring it. Almost like resetting it. But if I accelerate hard again, it still won't let me get into 2nd gear.

I did check out the linkage and tried to reset it with a pin and starting from scratch, but that didn't do anything.

Also, I'm doubting it's linkage since it shifts fine when accelerating at a more moderate speed.

I will add that prior to this issue, I had tranny out to replace clutch with a McLeod performance clutch. I had a hell of a time mating tranny and engine even with the alignment tool. Eventually got it to mate with bellhousing bolts drawing them together. I understand that's a red flag, but again it shifts flawlessly unless I'm flooring it, and it's only 2nd gear issue.

Any thoughts?
My '70 GTX RS23V0A****** had the same issue. When the clutch was replaced (Macleod) and the flywheel resurfaced, I had the transmission (A833 18 tooth spline) rebuilt (by Allen Driveline, Pittsburgh srea) all bearings were replaced including the uncaged needle roller bearings and thrust washers, all sliding sleeves and the synchro rings and dog houses and the 2nd gear with the brass teeth (origional brass teeth were worn with burrs on the point). The shift forks were inspected where they contact the synchro sleeves and lever pivots replaced. External linkage adjusted per FSM. I use 85W-90 synthetic gear oil (Mobil One). The release bearing was replaced: the pilot bushing was replaced. It was an expensive overhaul (~ $2.5k labor and OEM parts)......was it worth it???......absolutely ....transmission shifts smoothly under all circumstances .....
BOB RENTON
 
2nd gear. My 18 tooth has a different issue that's not that biggie. It can fall out of 1st gear at low RPM. This tells me it likely linkage than synchro. But it's only a small nuisance.
 
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Adding to other good suggestions:

When installing an 833 if you let the trans hang at all trying to align the trans it can bend the clutch plate, crack bearing covers and damage pilot bushings.
If you used the bronze pilot bushing it could have been installed out of alignment and then distorted the bushing enough to cause an issue.
I say this because up until the clutch replacement the issue was not there. That’s what I would focus on. What changed since then?
I use an extra input shaft for alignment to be sure. In the past sometimes I would loosen the pressure plate enough so it could move the disc until the trans aligned. Then I tightened the pressure plate bolts after the trans was tightened up to the bell housing. You shouldn’t have to do this with a good alignment but it doesn’t hurt anything.

When you pull the trans you can inspect the crank bushing. If the trans doesn’t slide right out and the input binds making you pull the transmission out there is one or more of your problems.

You could drop the inspection cover, have someone engage the clutch and with you under the car see if the clutch disc can spin freely. You should also see separation.

I know it’s tempting to do but drawing the transmission into the bell housing with bolts is not a good idea. The trans should slide in if properly aligned. Getting the car way up to get under the transmission to control the trans or taking your time with a trans jack reassures that the clutch is not bent during installation and the pilot bushing is not binding because of some reason like poor installation alignment during installation of the bushing.

Using an extra input shaft from a trans gives me a bit of insurance when positioning the clutch disc.

Sorry about the long comment. Good luck. I’m curious about the solution.
 
2nd gear. My 18 tooth has a different issue that's not that biggie. It can fall out of 1st gear at low RPM. This tells me it likely linkage than synchro. But it's only a small nuisance.
Probably a worn bushing in the second gear (where it rides on the main shaft) causing the gear to wobble. Replace the bushing or the gear/bushing assembly.
 
It's been years since I last worked on my charger, but last time I did, I had a shifting issue:

68 charger 440
A833 4 speed Hurst shifter

Rowing through gears just cruising - no issue at all. Smooth and clean shifts.

When I get on it, 1st to 2nd shift doesn't work. Just won't go into 2nd at all. I can jump to 3rd no problem. I can slow down and downshift into 1st no problem.

If I remember correctly, I would have to slow down, go back into 1st and it would go through gears again fine if not flooring it. Almost like resetting it. But if I accelerate hard again, it still won't let me get into 2nd gear.

I did check out the linkage and tried to reset it with a pin and starting from scratch, but that didn't do anything.

Also, I'm doubting it's linkage since it shifts fine when accelerating at a more moderate speed.

I will add that prior to this issue, I had tranny out to replace clutch with a McLeod performance clutch. I had a hell of a time mating tranny and engine even with the alignment tool. Eventually got it to mate with bellhousing bolts drawing them together. I understand that's a red flag, but again it shifts flawlessly unless I'm flooring it, and it's only 2nd gear issue.

Any thoughts?
It still may be linkage! Is it the original shifter? Check the stops! Maybe not allowing full shift! It would still shift well at low speeds
 
Perhaps do some research on the shifter part numbers and the fork levers to ensure you do not have a mismatch of components.
What gets me is this affects 1/2 gate only which takes the shifter out of the picture. Can it still be in first partially when trying to engage second. Is That even possible.
 
What gets me is this affects 1/2 gate only which takes the shifter out of the picture. Can it still be in first partially when trying to engage second. Is That even possible.
Sometimes the pin gets left out of the ball detent spring asseemby and can cause it, but I don't think Brewers would make that mistake.
 
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