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Acid dip

andrewmopar

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Harlan, KY
Could anyone give me information on acid dipping a car? I have a 1967 gtx that I think I would like to have dipped. The car is covered in undercoating on the bottom and I'm wanting to do a rotisserie restoration and not sure how to get it off any other way. Does anyone offer a epoxy primer dip after the acid bath? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!!!
 
Check out Muscle Car Restorations in Chippewa Falls. They have a good website that shows a lot of "in progress" photos. They have an acid bath and also an option to have the whole car dip primed after it has been in the acid bath.

Their website is:

www.musclecarrestorations.com

Hope this helps and good luck with your project.
 
Could anyone give me information on acid dipping a car? I have a 1967 gtx that I think I would like to have dipped. The car is covered in undercoating on the bottom and I'm wanting to do a rotisserie restoration and not sure how to get it off any other way. Does anyone offer a epoxy primer dip after the acid bath? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!!!

Check out my thread: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...-Max-Wedge-quot-clone-resto-quot-Round-2-quot

"Super-bee_ski's 1963 Dodge "Max Wedge" clone resto "Round-2"


I opted to have the 63 Polara entirely stripped to bare metal and then the epoxy primer applied.
One thing about the epoxy primer, it is difficult to scuff up for paint.

I would NOT Acid Dip.
 
The issue I have heard about acid dipping is make sure the acid is washed out of all the nooks and crannies otherwise it will continue to work on the metal and cause problems in the future.
 
I don't think acid will eat the undercoating off very good, IF at all. Better off media blasting.
 
Unless you were building a race car,wouldn't do the acid dip. Media blasting would be the best choice and could do that locally or even have them come to the car.
 
I tried sandblasting it off years ago and resorted to the propane torch and putty knife which was super easy but time consuming and then blasted. Maybe with the equipment Donny has, it's a different story today.
 
I did a alkaline dip in toledo, ohio, supposed to be less aggressive did a pretty good job got 99% of everything, including under coating, did have debri left in the metal sandwich areas of the car, would take it home replace any metal needed clean and clean and clean, i used air hoses, power wash and a leaf blower before i had the epoxy dip, car is like new, made it super easy to remove body panels that were damaged at factory assembly points, quite pricey around 5000 for both, adds quite a bit to the resto cost but it depends on what you're lookin for. saved a lot time.
 
Ford, MOPAR and GM undercoating is a breeze to remove either with a little elbow grease, or just blast it off. Now the Alfa Romeo GTV I'm currently working on, that beast is from a different planet! It's a rubberized stuff, very good, and everywhere. I had to hand scrape it off with a propane torch and scraper -- about 15 hours just doing that. I had to charge the customer for that. I normally give up 2 hours or so 'free' to hand remove the Detroit undercoatings and I get to learn about the condition of the car this way, but, this Italian car was something else!
 
I put mine up on the rotisserie and used a 1" putty knife and a propane torch. Took about 10 Hours. Then I sprayed the bottom of the car with Gunk Engine degreaser and let it sit overnight.Phew! The bodyshop really smelled in the morning! Fired-up the pressure washer and washed it all off. sprayed the underside with Zep Purple degreaser I got at Menard's, and washed that off.You could eat off of it! The caustic soda bath takes EVERYTHING OFF! Even the stuff you want to stay. All of the little dabs of sound deadener between the roof panel and the superstructure! You can't put it back without warping the panels. Good Luck!
 
SO as not to get flamed here I will say that I am doing a body off restoration on a non mopar and I elected to go the dip route. I can give you links to the before and after pictures. If you have a generally solid car and your biggest issue is the undercoating its probably not the route to go. If your going all out you will be very happy with the end result. The first step is a caustic bath this removes all the paint, filler, undercoating, seam sealer etc. Step two car gets rinsed with water and goes for 2nd bath in an acid solution think about how you neutralize battery acid using baking soda --same principle applies the acid neutralizes the caustic solution from step one as well as removes ALL of the rust & scale and things that a blast nozzle can't get to such as in the cowl area between the body panels and braces etc. After step 2 the body gets rinsed again and a water soluble phosphate coating is applied to prevent flash rusting. The company I used will re-clean the sheet metal again after you do all your metal work and you can either take home and epoxy prime or I took the other option to have the entire body and bolt on panels EDP coated. Depending on whether your doing the work yourself or paying a shop to do the work its a relative bargain. Meaning the initial cleaning was $1500 for the body, doors, deck lid, hood, fenders, inner fenders, and a handful of other parts like heater core box, glove box, and a few other misc pieces. If your shops labor rate is $50 an hour 30 hours adds up fast if your manually stripping it. The EDP coating is done off site and runs about the same as the cleaning. Bolt on panels are $125 to clean and $125/$150 each to EDP coat. Each method of stripping has its pluses and minuses I researched for a long time prior to making my choice. The common thing I found with dipping was everybody who had negative things to say about the process had never personally had first hand experience with it. It was ALWAYS I heard....I have a buddy who....My buddy owns a shop and..... Not one time did I ever hear a first hand account. Soda blasting leaves a film that must be removed prior to prepping the car and gets into every little nook and cranny and is near impossible to blow it all out. Remember what it IS sodium bicarbonate ---sodium = SALT upside is its VERY gentle and will not warp the sheet metal downside it DOES NOT REMOVE rust. Sand blasting would be ok for the underside of the car, floor boards, trunk floor. Do NOT sandblast doors, hoods, trunk lids, roofs, quarters. The heat generated will warp the panels.
 
I swear I heard somewhere the body joints have to be re-leaded after acid dip?
 
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