70chall440
Well-Known Member
- Local time
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- Joined
- Feb 11, 2018
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- Location
- Yelm, Washington
"Less than 100 miles on the engine and hitting triple digits"... These results are not overly surprising.
No different than a drag motor build. Break in and let 'er rip."Less than 100 miles on the engine and hitting triple digits"... These results are not overly surprising.
They placed band aids where needed and expect you to put it together
You know what needs to bee done , but at what price , and how do you get resolution out of the machine shop or engine builder as it boils right down to it (No Pun Intended)
Suggested in a post that engine compression got into cooling system and blew out freeze plug. If that happened can't blame machine shop. Sad that it happened, going to cost to fix. What do crank journals look like? Bet some polishing is in order.
Did the op gave up the name of the shop that built his short block?
Today I took all the disassembled engine parts to Morrison Auto Machine in Glendale Arizona. They did the block prep on my 383 I just put together for my 73. That engine went together easily and runs fantastic. I wanted them to look at it all the parts together, and tell me what it needs. I was expecting to hear what I already suspected. The pistons are toast, ball hone the cylinders, new bearings and reassemble. But, not the case.
They agreed that the pistons are probably no longer round, but they will check to be sure, The scored and chewed up ones must be replaced. Best to buy a set. And, the fit of the main bearings and the crank bearings looks to be way to tight. They show signs of contact. And, #4 cam bearing is scored, bad fit too. Plus, they must re surface the block and heads if I want to use Cometic gaskets. They did not like the finish how it was left from Basko. They also asked about line hone, was it done the first time? Which it was not. They want to check the mains, and line hone if needed and with new ARP main bolts.
I am no engine building expert. But to me this sounds like my engine was doomed from the beginning. Amateur machine work and assembly at Basko, the first shop.
So I am starting over. Probably going to be a very expensive fiasco.
Sorry to hear Paul, not many good engine builders left in the valley anymore. What did you put the 505 in?Today I took all the disassembled engine parts to Morrison Auto Machine in Glendale Arizona. They did the block prep on my 383 I just put together for my 73. That engine went together easily and runs fantastic. I wanted them to look at it all the parts together, and tell me what it needs. I was expecting to hear what I already suspected. The pistons are toast, ball hone the cylinders, new bearings and reassemble. But, not the case.
They agreed that the pistons are probably no longer round, but they will check to be sure, The scored and chewed up ones must be replaced. Best to buy a set. And, the fit of the main bearings and the crank bearings looks to be way to tight. They show signs of contact. And, #4 cam bearing is scored, bad fit too. Plus, they must re surface the block and heads if I want to use Cometic gaskets. They did not like the finish how it was left from Basko. They also asked about line hone, was it done the first time? Which it was not. They want to check the mains, and line hone if needed and with new ARP main bolts.
I am no engine building expert. But to me this sounds like my engine was doomed from the beginning. Amateur machine work and assembly at Basko, the first shop.
So I am starting over. Probably going to be a very expensive fiasco.
The machine shop built the short block for me. They put the stroker crank in it, cam bearings, and freeze plugs at their shop.Dam, that totally sucks the big one. I feel ur pain. We all want to believe that the machinests are gods. But they are only human. Some own up to their mistakes, others don’t. But when u assamble it yourself you pretty much have taken away any of their responsibility. I have never in my life have a frost plug blow out. Kim
What did you put the 505 in?
IMO....
they didn't heat the head sufficiently before welding...... you gotta Tiger Torch the frigg'in things until damn near 800* then WELD.... or when you surface that's what you will get is a separation mark between the patch and parent alloys.(basically porosity between the two)
If it's a 'new' build with only 100 Miles and it was our fault ?
We'd have to eat a new Head Casting and replace it.... we've had to before, that's why nothing leaves anymore until we've Dyno'd it now to the Customers satisfaction....,. in the Customer's presence.
and
Pistons & Rings(next O/S)
ALL Bearings
and on
and on