Alan's 1970 Charger Restoration

[davek]

I hope your frames are good. Since your doing floors you can do some cutting to look.

 

[rklewis1005]

I hope your frames are good. Since your doing floors you can do some cutting to look.

They are definitely NOT ok. Rusted and will need to be replaced - a peek below.

 

[DeltaV]

I didn't do much the first week except tag and bag all the parts scattered in the trunk and interior. The original Holley 4368 carburetor, base plate, etc were there, so I wanted to make notes and store them appropriately. Once the miscellaneous stuff was sorted, I removed the seats hoping to find the build sheet. While no build sheet was found, I did get the seats, sill plates, accelerator, armrest, and front seat belts removed and tagged. I broke off 6 of the 8 seat rail studs due to extreme rust. I searched the forum and found a couple of sources (currently out of stock) and suggestions to use carriage bolts instead. I'll watch the websites for stock as I have time before I'll need them. I took pictures of the seats to show the condition and extreme fading. They should be brown and will be again when I replace the leather/vinyl coverings. The rear seat is still in decent shape, but I'm guessing the threads, etc will eventually break if I try to avoid replacing that vinyl. There are many places where I can see the ground or the seat brackets underneath, but a good start (finally).

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Did you find a broadcast sheet under the rear bench seat cushion? It will be squeezed between the springs and seat cushion.

 

[rklewis1005]

Did you find a broadcast sheet under the rear bench seat cushion? It will be squeezed between the springs and seat cushion.

Unfortunately no. I've searched everywhere and the interior is mostly disassembled. There was lots of insulation, etc in the heater box with a few mouse skeletons. If there was one, it's long gone.

 

[DeltaV]

Unfortunately no. I've searched everywhere and the interior is mostly disassembled. There was lots of insulation, etc in the heater box with a few mouse skeletons. If there was one, it's long gone.

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Did you check with the registry? They might have paperwork for your car VIN.

1970 Dodge Charger Registry

 

[rklewis1005]

Did you check with the registry? They might have paperwork for your car VIN.

1970 Dodge Charger Registry

Yep - checked with Don, didn't have anything for it... yet. It's not the end of the world. For as much as I know my brother found it 40+ years ago and threw it away.

 

[rklewis1005]

It's been a busy month. I've removed the steering column and pedals finishing the interior disassembly. I moved to the rear and removed the bumper, tail lights, wiring, trim panel, etc. Yesterday, I finally dropped the rear axle and put the back end up on twirler brackets with casters. I have some organization/cleanup this week before moving to the front end.

Speaking of the front end, when I removed the steering column, I removed the starter shield and discovered the front frame rail is in two separate pieces separated by 12-18 inches of nothing. I won't touch the K-Frame or remove fenders until it's in the body shop and on a jig (I'll let them). The front twirler brackets were supposed to attach to the K-frame bolt areas, but I may adapt them to the bumper mounts to keep whatever rust is holding everything together in place. Should I consider making a brace to connect the 2 pieces of the front rail for transport to the body shop (a makeshift frame rail)? I'll take a closer look once I get the drivetrain removed in a couple more weeks.

Pictures of progress and rust.

 

[ckessel]

The termites had fun on your car!

 

[rklewis1005]

The termites had fun on your car!

Don't I know it! Sitting around in a damp garage for 40+ years did it no favors. It let that NY salt eat away at it.

 

[Richard Cranium]

It's been a busy month. I've removed the steering column and pedals finishing the interior disassembly. I moved to the rear and removed the bumper, tail lights, wiring, trim panel, etc. Yesterday, I finally dropped the rear axle and put the back end up on twirler brackets with casters. I have some organization/cleanup this week before moving to the front end.

Speaking of the front end, when I removed the steering column, I removed the starter shield and discovered the front frame rail is in two separate pieces separated by 12-18 inches of nothing. I won't touch the K-Frame or remove fenders until it's in the body shop and on a jig (I'll let them). The front twirler brackets were supposed to attach to the K-frame bolt areas, but I may adapt them to the bumper mounts to keep whatever rust is holding everything together in place. Should I consider making a brace to connect the 2 pieces of the front rail for transport to the body shop (a makeshift frame rail)? I'll take a closer look once I get the drivetrain removed in a couple more weeks.

Pictures of progress and rust.

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Have you gotten any estimates on what all that metal replacement & body work will cost?

Paging @eldubb440

​

 

[rklewis1005]

Have you gotten any estimates on what all that metal replacement & body work will cost?

Paging @eldubb440

​

I have a couple rough estimates so far - but obviously neither has seen the car in person yet.

1. Metal & Body work ~ 200 hrs @ $100/hr = $20k + I purchase the parts (AMD) and pay misc supplies (blasting material, primer, etc). Final bodywork/paint would need to be done somewhere else.

2. Metal, Body & Paint ~ 400-500 hrs @ $100/hr = $50k + I purchase parts (AMD) and pay for paint (I'm hoping they're high)

I've added the parts to my cart at AMD and it will be $7-8k in obvious parts easily + a few I'm sure I'm missing. It's going to be a lot and sane people will wonder why I picked the car - I didn't - it picked me.

I still have a hankering to build a jig and do the metal work myself. I understand that someone who does it day in and day out will likely do a better job (at least faster), but there's something about enjoying the struggle and the satisfaction of doing it myself. My wife is constantly talking me out of doing it myself and letting "experts" do it.

Speaking of a JIG, anyone have a clue what "A" and "B" are pointing to exactly? If it's the Torsion bar/spring, I get that it's the centerline of it, but what about front to back? "B" might be where the torsion bar intersects the rear of the K-Frame? "A" might be where the Torsion bar intersects the from support? Some clarity would be nice or if someone has a better drawing

Thanks
Ross

 

[eldubb440]

oh my.......

 

[rklewis1005]

This past weekend the engine and transmission were removed and the car is officially disassembled. There is only the sway bar left to remove, but I need to get the front casters attached before I can get it off the blocks. I'm planning to use some 4" channel to reconnect the 2 pieces of the front frame rail before putting it on casters. We did find a mouse nest in the exhaust header which caused an exhaust value to be completely rusted off the stem. I'll have to see how the head on that side cleans up or if I need to replace it. Lots of engine degreasing and cleaning to do before taking the block to the machine shop to have it cleaned and checked for cracks before deciding what we'll need to do (level & honing at least).

 

[rklewis1005]

Minor updates. I took the block, crankshaft, can and headers to the machine shop. Waiting to hear the block is crack-free (fingers crossed) and if it's a hone or bore job. Planning to have the heads rebuilt and valve seats hardened. I'm not planning on cranking the HP - just rebuild it

I cleaned off some of the grime to get some "before" pics and test the casters.

Getting ready to clean, rebuild and replace what's needed while the body is out for repairs.

 

[rklewis1005]

Work has been slow lately as I'm still cleaning up trees from the storm (Helene). Now that the time changed it's too dark after work to work on trees so back to the car.

The machine shop reported the block is healthy, but it needs boring (likely .030), align honing, and surfacing. The heads are also salvageable just need a lot of work. It's good news as I wanted to keep the original engine and selected a "close to stock" cam kit from Comp Cams (K21-215-4) and added a set of the same "energy" series pushrods. Once I'm sure the block cleans up at .030 over, I'll order pistons, etc.

Meanwhile, I've been cleaning up parts and sending them off for restoration! It makes me feel like there's progress and I get them out of my garage. I've dug through hundreds of threads on this site to find most of the contacts and information. This is such a vast warehouse of Mopar knowledge, so glad/lucky it's here.

Steering Wheel - off to @65satelliteman
Wiper Motor & Headlight Motor - off to Topher aka Headlight Motor Man (met up with him when he was nearby - so that was cool)
Starter and Alternator - off to Paul at Dixie Restoration Parts
Water pump and Oil Pump - about to send to Ozzie at EGGE
Door Hinges - rebuilding (almost done), won't be as good as @MoparLeo and if they don't seem right, I'll end up sending to him anyway

Components still here:
Dash - planning to send to Instrument Specialties (yes I know it's pricey, but I don't want to remove it ever again)
Fuel Pump - have 3 that aren't the right model for the car - searching for an old/used MS-4589A fuel pump (posted in WTB - found the 1 guy that restores crimped ones)
Power Steering Pump - still researching
Master Cylinder - still researching
Transmission and rear axle - planning to rebuild myself over the winter

I'm trying to decide if I really *need* a media/sand blaster. I've been using Evapo-Rush, wire brushes, wheels (wire and abrasive), etc but some surfaces are tough to really clean in all the areas. Does everyone who restores these cars eventually give in and get a blaster or blast cabinet and a good air compressor (those are pricey to have enough cfm)?

Still chasing plating options for things that aren't reproduced - door catch assemblies (the one mounted in the door) and similar.

As I start reassembling the engine and attaching components, I'll post pictures.

 

[MoparLeo]

Just an FYI. If try to rebuild them and they don't come out right, it is too late to send to me.
We only rebuild virgin mopar cores.
We don't fix repairs. And we completely rebuild them, all parts not just pins.
And lowers do not take a bushing so please don''t try one of those "parts kits", just ruins your hinges.