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Alignment issues - QA1 Camber bolts

68Satellite440

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Hey guys,
Needing a little help here or suggestions.
My 68 Satellite has been to the alignment shop 3 times now since rebuilding the suspension and replacing all bushings. Car continues to eat front tires on the inside tread.
My local shop has spent a lot of time on the rack trying like hell to get enough positive camber and struggles to reach zero camber.

He asked me if I was willing to order some new eccentric camber bolts to attempt to fix the problem. $70
Which is the cheapest answer for an attempted fix, before moving to more expensive solutions.

I do not know the factory camber bolt range of adjustment, but according to Qa1’s website theirs offers +/- 2.5 degrees of adjustment.

Has anyone else used them and has a review?

Im certainly now wishing I had ordered the offset UCA bushings instead of the standard regular centered ones.
 
I would like to see how a different bolt can change the slot size in the frame??
Offset bushings is the first step. Milling the strut rod a bit can help gain caster. But the wheel will move fwd a bit..
 
I would like to see how a different bolt can change the slot size in the frame??
Offset bushings is the first step. Milling the strut rod a bit can help gain caster. But the wheel will move fwd a bit..
My thoughts was maybe the Qa1 eccentric bolts had larger washer to give more adjustment? I could be completely wrong though.
 
Hey guys,
Needing a little help here or suggestions.
My 68 Satellite has been to the alignment shop 3 times now since rebuilding the suspension and replacing all bushings. Car continues to eat front tires on the inside tread.
My local shop has spent a lot of time on the rack trying like hell to get enough positive camber and struggles to reach zero camber.

He asked me if I was willing to order some new eccentric camber bolts to attempt to fix the problem. $70
Which is the cheapest answer for an attempted fix, before moving to more expensive solutions.

I do not know the factory camber bolt range of adjustment, but according to Qa1’s website theirs offers +/- 2.5 degrees of adjustment.

Has anyone else used them and has a review?

Im certainly now wishing I had ordered the offset UCA bushings instead of the standard regular centered ones.
Can you post a final print out of the alignment.
 
My thoughts was maybe the Qa1 eccentric bolts had larger washer to give more adjustment? I could be completely wrong though.
No, you could use a regular bolt with no washer and it would function the same. The slot dictates the range of adjustment
 
Can you post a final print out of the alignment.
I had a photo of it, but can’t seem to find it now.
Had two guys working on it together on the rack, doing all they could to get it back to zero camber.
But as I recall, the harder they tried to fix it, the caster would get messed up? Or vice versa?
I was watching the whole process and he went over it with me and it was still like .4-5 degrees negative and they couldn’t get any more out of it.
Thats when we came to the conclusion of trying new camber bolts.
 
The ultimate solution of course would be the SPC control arms from Bergman. But $$$
 
I would try a different shop first. Not all shops understand how to do a Mopar suspension. But unfortunately you will be putting the offset bushings in sooner than later.
 
Had a shop check my alignment after I did it myself the first time just to double check what I did. This guy was supposed to be a Mopar guy too and said my toe was a bit off but everything else looked good so he adjusted it.....to the point that it was looking cross eyed!! The car drove like crap on the way home and haven't taken any of my cars to an alignment shop since! There are tools that you can buy that will allow you to do it yourself. Just takes some reading and the willingness to try it yourself. A car with 1" toe in will truly drive like a pile of crap!
 
Take a picture of the bolts and washers to show us the position of the eccentrics. Take a picture of the front and back of how it is now.
 
Last edited:
I had a photo of it, but can’t seem to find it now.
Had two guys working on it together on the rack, doing all they could to get it back to zero camber.
But as I recall, the harder they tried to fix it, the caster would get messed up? Or vice versa?
I was watching the whole process and he went over it with me and it was still like .4-5 degrees negative and they couldn’t get any more out of it.
Thats when we came to the conclusion of trying new camber bolts.
.4 to .5 degree of negative camber alone won't eat the front tires off the car.
 
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