Alkaline body dipping?

[Mopar_1971]

I am thinking about having my 71 Charger alkaline dipped to remove all paint, undercoating, and filler. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? I have stripped many by hand, but never dipped. I am also wondering what kind of coating would be good to use on everything, since the WHOLE car is going to be stripped- inside, outside, every little corner... The closer I get to dipping, the more intimidating it sounds!!

 

[Hemirunner]

I dipped some doors and fenders many years ago. You can NEVER get that stuff out from between the folds of the metal. The doors rusted along the lower seams where it was trapped. Media blasting would be my only choice today.

 

[MoparBill]

I've seen where people had thier car dipped, neutralized and then e coated. I would give that a try if there was somewhere closer. Mopar 1971- are you going to do this yourself or take it somewhere? I'm almost to the point of having my car blasted- or dipped- so I'd like to see how you make out.

 

[Mopar_1971]

I will definitely be hiring it done. He will also do the neutralizing and e coating (of some sort). But, I am still pretty worried about rust coming through in all the tight places. Decisions, decisions...

 

[Donny]

More like trade-offs in each process, in each cost, in each end state status what you want, and, the condition of the car!

 

[snakeoil24]

I have never had a car chemical dipped, I have had my cars blasted. Blasting does not get every thing done. You will have dust everywhere for awhile. I work in the chemical Industry and can explain this a bit.

1. Car bodies are first stripped of all parts. Then the body is dipped in A solution of Caustic Soda "Lye" "Naoh". Usually for 1-2 days at 180 F. This chemical is used in many chemical processes and is notorious "famous" for being a poor rinsing chemical. A better Solution is "Koh" Potassium Hydroxide. This version of caustic is more expensive by 2x. Typical caustic Soda "Naoh" is .30 cents per pound dry weight for 50% active product. Koh is .45 to .60 cents per pound so the dipper guys will rarely spend the extra unless you request it to be added. If you just add 20 percent Koh the solution will rinse far better.
After this step the body is power washed and all the crap comes out. Then the body needs to be dipped in Phosphoric acid for 2-3 days which neutralizes the caustic and dissolves the rust, a lot of dippers will use cheaper Hydrochlric acid which damages metal but removes rust faster. this sucks and stay away if they use it.. If done correctly it will work very well. After the Phosphoric dip here is where they screw up. The body should be dipped in a rust inhibitor and finally e coated so it gets everywhere with electric and capillary action. "get's in the nuggies and crannies".

 

[MoparBill]

I have never had a car chemical dipped, I have had my cars blasted. Blasting does not get every thing done. You will have dust everywhere for awhile. I work in the chemical Industry and can explain this a bit.

1. Car bodies are first stripped of all parts. Then the body is dipped in A solution of Caustic Soda "Lye" "Naoh". Usually for 1-2 days at 180 F. This chemical is used in many chemical processes and is notorious "famous" for being a poor rinsing chemical. A better Solution is "Koh" Potassium Hydroxide. This version of caustic is more expensive by 2x. Typical caustic Soda "Naoh" is .30 cents per pound dry weight for 50% active product. Koh is .45 to .60 cents per pound so the dipper guys will rarely spend the extra unless you request it to be added. If you just add 20 percent Koh the solution will rinse far better.
After this step the body is power washed and all the crap comes out. Then the body needs to be dipped in Phosphoric acid for 2-3 days which neutralizes the caustic and dissolves the rust, a lot of dippers will use cheaper Hydrochlric acid which damages metal but removes rust faster. this sucks and stay away if they use it.. If done correctly it will work very well. After the Phosphoric dip here is where they screw up. The body should be dipped in a rust inhibitor and finally e coated so it gets everywhere with electric and capillary action. "get's in the nuggies and crannies".

Do you know of any shop that does this process??

 

[pabster]

I have never had a car chemical dipped, I have had my cars blasted. Blasting does not get every thing done. You will have dust everywhere for awhile. I work in the chemical Industry and can explain this a bit.

1. Car bodies are first stripped of all parts. Then the body is dipped in A solution of Caustic Soda "Lye" "Naoh". Usually for 1-2 days at 180 F. This chemical is used in many chemical processes and is notorious "famous" for being a poor rinsing chemical. A better Solution is "Koh" Potassium Hydroxide. This version of caustic is more expensive by 2x. Typical caustic Soda "Naoh" is .30 cents per pound dry weight for 50% active product. Koh is .45 to .60 cents per pound so the dipper guys will rarely spend the extra unless you request it to be added. If you just add 20 percent Koh the solution will rinse far better.
After this step the body is power washed and all the crap comes out. Then the body needs to be dipped in Phosphoric acid for 2-3 days which neutralizes the caustic and dissolves the rust, a lot of dippers will use cheaper Hydrochlric acid which damages metal but removes rust faster. this sucks and stay away if they use it.. If done correctly it will work very well. After the Phosphoric dip here is where they screw up. The body should be dipped in a rust inhibitor and finally e coated so it gets everywhere with electric and capillary action. "get's in the nuggies and crannies".

Damn, I always learn crazy new stuff on this board! Thanks, snakeoil!

Mopar_1971, good luck in your quest!

 

[rog_allen]

I seen on a tv program they were primer powder coating the body and the electric would suck the paint into all the seams and places you cant get with a spraygun

 

[73satwagon]

If you have ever used NAVAL JELLY, It's active ingredient is PHOSPHORIC ACID. You can buy it by itself in a gallon (cheaper). I apply it by spray bottle or brush or plug holes and just pour it in a cavity.It needs a bit of water to work, a humid day is somtimes enough. But if you live in a very dry area, use some water in a spray bottle. In about 30min. the rust will change to phosphate, an inert material ready to prime. The water changes the acid, you must have the water or it will remain acid. This has been used for years in aerospace (called wash primer). Yes works on aluminum too! Do a search on line for more details. I have used this on a rusty metal roof on my shop and the rust stops. Try it! as for blasting, my friend who does it professionally uses pressure wash first and then aluminum oxide/ walnut shell/ garnet media great results MERRY CHRISMAS

 

[Don selleck]

I had my 68 charger dipped in alkaline solution around christmas, have done my metal work since, there are spots that are hard to rinse especially where metal is sandwiched together like at the rear quarters and trunk extentions meet and rockers, I removed both rear quarters, and found a hand full of contaminated mud in each side which i'm sure would have damaged the metal eventually, since i have searched everywhere on the car( which is on a rotisserie), slowly getting rid of all the debri. As far as cleaning it, its amazing you can see the stamp mold stretches in the metal every spot weld, d.a. marks, all rust, paint ,seam sealer is gone. akaline is less aggresive than the acid dip, doesnt destroy aluminum, or plastic, planning to have it dipped in ppg electrocoat epoxy in a few weeks when weather permits. I am planning on spinning it on the rotisserie with a air hose in every orifice it has , then I have to power wash it to remove the water soluble rust inhibitor, Would i do it again? hell ya, saved countless hours when it came to metal work, and u get a piece of metal that is like day one, whats left after rust that is, luckily my was pretty clean. the alkaline cost more than acid 3700.00 the epoxy was quoted at 850.00 which I assume will run more, but massive cleaning inbetween these steps in my opinion is crucial, if u want a lasting resto. I have pics at don sellecks 68 charger rt resto

 

[Coronet 14]

You could go this route
[video]https://youtu.be/tdi71mStJFI[/video]

- - - Updated - - -

[video]https://youtu.be/nucYBS4B0bc[/video]

 

[Speedbird]

I would like to see how they avoided the glass. It sort of cut away from that.
But they got the paint off right up to the chrome.

You could go this route
[video]https://youtu.be/tdi71mStJFI[/video]

- - - Updated - - -

[video]https://youtu.be/nucYBS4B0bc[/video]