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allignment

cwhubb

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Hello, Does anyone remember an old circa 2005? article in mopar muscle/mopar action about updated modern specs for front end allignments? it was comparing outdated caster and toe in settings with modern settings for the new wheels and radial tires.
Thanks
 
Seems like I remember reading something back then but I've read several articles about using different specs for different tires....
 
Wheels and tires will have zero effect on caster. Radial tires do need more CAMBER than bias ply tires, because they hold their footprint better than a bias ply and therefore it takes more for the footprint to be affected. Generally, no more than 1/2 of a degree more camber for radial tires is acceptable.
 
Hello, Does anyone remember an old circa 2005? article in mopar muscle/mopar action about updated modern specs for front end allignments? it was comparing outdated caster and toe in settings with modern settings for the new wheels and radial tires.
Thanks
For street I try to run between -.5 to 0 camber. As much caster as you can get. With stock parts and offset upper bushings you should be able to get 2 1/2 to 3 1/2. Without off set bushings you'll be lucky to get 1 to 1 1/2. I still recommend 1/8" toe in do to the fact that rear steer linkage has play even in good shape and will toe out while driving. You can go more negative on the camber to help cornering at the expense of increased tire wear.
Doug
 
@ Rusty the low profile 40 series and lower have an effect, they dont have the side wall distortion and flex they take different settings to get the most out of them
 
@ Rusty the low profile 40 series and lower have an effect, they dont have the side wall distortion and flex they take different settings to get the most out of them

That's true. They would actually take the same as a bias ply. The tread on the bias ply doesn't squirm. Same with a really low profile. The bias ply spec would be a great starting point...and would in all liklihood suffice. But they SUCK on old cars.
 
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