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Alterktion/4-link combo

Darius

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I have this combo on my GTX along with QA-1 adjustable shocks. I also have had an entire Hotchkis "TVS" on my 69 Dart GTS. I was asked about the difference this week at HAN and I told the guy I honestly think the RMS system is best for a pro-touring type build. The Hotchkiss, on the other hand, is an outstanding suspension if you are wanting to auto cross or you just like a stiffer ride. The QA-1's really do give you a nice range from soft to stiff which makes that an easy adjustment for "cruise comfort", not to mention ride height!
 
Hmmmmmm, after all of my headaches with these leave springs and the pain of setting ride height I've been contemplating a four link. I like the triangulated setup like the RMS unit but one phone call to them and a rather rude reply ended that avenue. I've been thinking more about just building my own anyways simply because I think these companies put to much emphases on making there kits "bolt in" instead of more robust.

Any further input on the details would be great.
 
Rude response from RMS? Bill answers my questions so quick. Hit him up on Facebook.
 
Hmmmmmm, after all of my headaches with these leave springs and the pain of setting ride height I've been contemplating a four link. I like the triangulated setup like the RMS unit but one phone call to them and a rather rude reply ended that avenue. I've been thinking more about just building my own anyways simply because I think these companies put to much emphases on making there kits "bolt in" instead of more robust.

Any further input on the details would be great.

It's interesting to hear how people react after a certain experience. I haven't ever had a bad experience with Bill, but if I thought I wanted an alterktion under my car, I don't think I'd let one bad call keep me from building my car my way.....
 
Hmmmmmm, after all of my headaches with these leave springs and the pain of setting ride height I've been contemplating a four link. I like the triangulated setup like the RMS unit but one phone call to them and a rather rude reply ended that avenue. I've been thinking more about just building my own anyways simply because I think these companies put to much emphases on making there kits "bolt in" instead of more robust.

Any further input on the details would be great.

What kind in details would you like?
Easy to install, some pics in my build thread, easy to adjust.
Bill was always good to me as well, not that I had tons of interaction but I did talk with him a few times in the ordering process.
 
I have this combo on my GTX along with QA-1 adjustable shocks. I also have had an entire Hotchkis "TVS" on my 69 Dart GTS. I was asked about the difference this week at HAN and I told the guy I honestly think the RMS system is best for a pro-touring type build. The Hotchkiss, on the other hand, is an outstanding suspension if you are wanting to auto cross or you just like a stiffer ride. The QA-1's really do give you a nice range from soft to stiff which makes that an easy adjustment for "cruise comfort", not to mention ride height!

Are you talking the QA-1 shocks? I am trying to settle on a suspension build for Charger. I want to start with QA-1 Subframe and lower arms. Hotchkis upper arms, front and rear sway bars, and Subframe connectors.. Trying to decide on Shocks..
 
What kind in details would you like?
Easy to install, some pics in my build thread, easy to adjust.
Bill was always good to me as well, not that I had tons of interaction but I did talk with him a few times in the ordering process.

I'll have to go back and read threw your thread but I was just interested in the ride quality of the 4 link and what you thought the pro's and cons were.

- - - Updated - - -

It's interesting to hear how people react after a certain experience. I haven't ever had a bad experience with Bill, but if I thought I wanted an alterktion under my car, I don't think I'd let one bad call keep me from building my car my way.....

I would! I may have just caught him at a bad time but if I'm calling somebody with questions regarding their product (expensive part) I expect a little more enthusiasm and some input not a quick "NO". Nothing against them at all just didn't feel like they wanted my business.
 
Bill is a "working Joe" like the rest of us ....... probably just a bad day
 
I don't really have any "cons" at this point. The "pro's" would be ease of adjust ability in ride height and stiff/soft adjustment. A leaf spring of any kind is not going to allow the stiffness component and ht adjust would be very limited and may not get you exactly where you want to be. You turn the adjustment nut on the QA-1 and you have as little as 1/8 turn/1/16" height adjustment if you need to get that finite.
Freeway on ramps at 40 mph are flat turns, the car does not roll. Can't say how this might be if you stayed with a stock like set up with torsion bars in front and coil overs in the back but I can say the rear end really sticks in the turns.
The only strange thing I felt was due I think to the "honing" grooves in the concrete roadway. I don't know if they do that where you guys are , I'm guessing they do, but when they flatten the surface and leave all the little grooves those seemed to want to have a greater influence on how my car gripped the road on a straight stretch . It felt like I was wobbling left to right. I'm sure that has more to do with my tire tread and the depth of the grooves on the surface because it did not happen as much on some sections as on others.
 
Thanks. I was researching different setups and it seamed like the goal with 4 links were to have parallel bars of equal length, seeing how all the setups I've seen for Mopars have much shorter upper bars than the lowers made me wonder how well they worked under all condition especially hard launches?
 
Hey Dev,Here is the system I put in my car. It is a weld in four link and pretty affordable.Its from Martz Chassis In Bedford PA. Launches straight and Handles good. I was going to try and do the road coarse event to see how it handles under load.But I put fuel injection on the car and have been in line to get the tune done and missed the event.The base system is 1340.00 and if you upgrade to Qa1 shock its 1580.00

DSC01821.jpgDSC01686.jpg
Thanks. I was researching different setups and it seamed like the goal with 4 links were to have parallel bars of equal length, seeing how all the setups I've seen for Mopars have much shorter upper bars than the lowers made me wonder how well they worked under all condition especially hard launches?
 
Thanks Joe, I like that they are really close is length and that the panhard bar is so flat meaning very little side movement from the axle threw it's stroke. Nice looking setup!

Sorry if I hijacked the thread, I've just been considering some form of 4 link so I'm interested in seeing what people have to say. Thanks guys
 
Depends on what your looking for

Budget etc. also

Magnum Force {only mopar specific product}
great products, great quality that I've seen & great prompt customer service/support,
{owner Ron Jenkins is a true knowledgeable Mopar guy, owns a bunch, he's really a nice guy too}

QA1 Lower control arms with sway bar mts.
{old Capps Automotive stuff}
I've used the stuff on 3 cars now, Capps & QA1 I'm very satisfied

SPC, double adj. "on the car" Upper control arms, trick stuff

Moog, OE style lower ball joints

RMS, look nice never personally used them yet

Ride tech bolt on rear 4-bar stuff, either in coil over or shockwave {airbag}
talked to a few people with them they love them,
easy installation bolt on easy peasy stuff

all these suspension pieces, seem to have there +'s & -'s

I've had good luck with the Capps & QA1 components so far,
budget minded builds

so far the only part I'd not recommend that I went with,
is the Uni-steer Rack & Pinion conversion,
a little bump steer issues & oil pan choices limited also
it works steers nice, but limits the header choices severely
{I just made my own}

sometimes a combination of a few companies, is the best too
 

Attachments

  • QA1 Mopar {Capps Automotive} Mopar B-body Adjustable Capps-QA1 Upper Control Arms.jpg
    QA1 Mopar {Capps Automotive} Mopar B-body Adjustable Capps-QA1 Upper Control Arms.jpg
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    QA1 Mopar B-E body K-member 52315.jpg
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  • QA1 Mopar Dynamic Adj. Strut Bars 62-72 B, E Body $219.95.jpg
    QA1 Mopar Dynamic Adj. Strut Bars 62-72 B, E Body $219.95.jpg
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  • MRE SPC Fully adjustable Upper Control arms $240 each.jpg
    MRE SPC Fully adjustable Upper Control arms $240 each.jpg
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  • Suspension Baer Brakes Bump Steer Correctors Tie Rod ends.jpg
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  • RideTech Bolt in front & rear Shockwave kits 68-70 Mopar B-Body $5250 available in coil-over als.jpg
    RideTech Bolt in front & rear Shockwave kits 68-70 Mopar B-Body $5250 available in coil-over als.jpg
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  • RideTech Bolt-in 4 link kit 68 B Body 13016199 $1300.oo.jpg
    RideTech Bolt-in 4 link kit 68 B Body 13016199 $1300.oo.jpg
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  • RideTech Coilovers 2in springs 125#-800# rating w-Adj. shocks.jpg
    RideTech Coilovers 2in springs 125#-800# rating w-Adj. shocks.jpg
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  • Magnumforce Racing  front coil over conversion complete MFR161048-6 $599.jpg
    Magnumforce Racing front coil over conversion complete MFR161048-6 $599.jpg
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I never really liked triangulated 4 links. They do an awful job of locating a rear.

Theres triangulated 4 links where the narrow part is at the body and the reverse where its at the rear.

The easiest way to put it is hold your hands out in front of you close together and parallel, then extend your pointer fingers out in the triangular pattern.

Now move them up and down pretending your finger tips are attached to your rear. During the up and down motion they will get closer at one point and farther at another.

Not good for bushings! And a whole lot of bind. For my car a 71 SSP I will be going with hotchkis springs, strut rods, front and rear sway bars, bergman t bars 1.12dia borgeson steering, Bilsteins from firm feel with a reinforced k frame and lower control arms and front and back dr diff brakes kits with a possible homemade pan hard to take some side load off the springs.
 
QA1 has a sweet looking completely bolt on four link rear setup for b bodies with 8 3/4 rears.
 
For my car a 71 SSP I will be going with hotchkis springs, strut rods, front and rear sway bars, bergman t bars 1.12dia borgeson steering, Bilsteins from firm feel with a reinforced k frame and lower control arms and front and back dr diff brakes kits with a possible homemade pan hard to take some side load off the springs.


I can appreciate the gains some seek when making these deviations from stock, but I too am happy with spending less while optimizing the factory setup. I like my classics to still feel true to their roots. Just an opinion, yours may vary.
 
I will throw in my opinion as I have this gear as well. I will not recommend the magnumforce 4 link. definetly like there front end over all others but not their rear end. it was not designed very well for the b bodies.
if I was to go again it would be ridetech one 1st choice then martz as second choice then probably alterkation. but for my next build I will be going my own fabricated 3 link as a 3 link offers better handling for a corner carver. straight line does not interest me much.
 
Does anyone have experience with the rms street Lynx using a mini tub? I have this system with the wildwood disc brake kit from rms as well. I am trying to find a good way to figure out what wheel combo I can use. I have a lot of flexibility as I can order custom spacing and also need entire rear axel. Thanks
 
Hey Dev,Here is the system I put in my car. It is a weld in four link and pretty affordable.Its from Martz Chassis In Bedford PA. Launches straight and Handles good. I was going to try and do the road coarse event to see how it handles under load.But I put fuel injection on the car and have been in line to get the tune done and missed the event.The base system is 1340.00 and if you upgrade to Qa1 shock its 1580.00

View attachment 271601View attachment 271602


Very cool. Probably just the photo angle but can you verify if those shock mounts hang below the "scrub line"?
 
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