Alternator bracket 440 A/C

[khan68]

I’m noticing you are in Norway.

There is a German distributor for the PowerMaster 7019

Alternator Mopar 95 Amp till 1969 round back, dual Pulley, 298,88 €

I bet your car won’t need more than 65 amps at iddle IF is fairly stock with just some upgrades.

Is not straight ONE WIRE alt like the one you got (later GM design alt), but is ready to be used with later factory dual field setup electronic Mopar regulator. If you want to use the factory reg for 68 one field setup, just will need to reuse the factory grounded brush you already have on your stock alt or ground one of the brushes that one gets.

To “become it” into one wire alt, small mounted on regs are available. These are the ones used on most Mopars “one wire” conversions alts available. Same shop get those

Voltage Regulator, 1-wire, 85,87 €


Sure these are cheaper in USA, but as you noticing shippings and taxes kills any deal when shipping to EU, unless you have a diff international carrier service for the overseas ship. (I have one to ship between USA and Venezuela by sea or air, filling containers with lots of diff customers and shipping together).

However I still think that mounted on regulator can be found WAY CHEAPER maybe even on Aliexpress and get it on less than 10-20€ rate. I meant, if you really want a “one wire” alt setup.

(EDITING… so far so good still haven’t found any other seller outside USA for these regs. Buying eBay and Amazon, it seems will be on 50€ rate shipped to Europe… I guess plus customs fees.)

The deal with the alt setup for 69 and laters with A/C brackets setup (like Pnora and 1967Coronet shown) is the diff upper bracket position between A/C and non A/C. When A/C is present, compressor bracket uses the bolts provisions used on non A/C alt brackets, so the Alt bracket had to be moved on to a deeper disposition. This makes the alt front provision mounts IN FRONT of the alt bracket. So even if you want to use the alt you got, get the alt installed like laters setup wouldn’t be possible due the one piece large alt provision for the top mounting design used on these later GM alts (the design of the PowerMaster alt you got)

I already have an external regulator on my current alternator and will probably keep it for the new one as well. Will check with tuff stuff if these will fit my setup:

130 Amp
130 Amp Chrysler Alternator #9509DP - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories

100 Amp
Chrysler Alternator #8509DP - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories

Need(high estimate)
30 amps cooling fans
10 amps stereo
10 amps heater fan?
10 amps lights low
10 amps lights high
10 amps all other lights/functions

Been using XPS shipping that combines my packages from USA so i can get the cost down a little bit. Sounds like a smart thing combining container cost with other people. Will be running 2 x 12" proform fans, small upgrade on the stereo other than that it will be stock.
Thanks for taking the time to help out, much appriciated
Hope weather is better in venezuela than Norway!
Will post some pictures tomorrow so you can see what im working on

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’m living in Spain at this moment, althought my Charger is in Venezuela yet.

(Weather there is nice, but the rest sucks LOL).


The POWERMASTER 7019 would be the alternative to the TuffStuff 8509. But PowerMaster is also Roundback, which would be more “correct” to your 68. Since will come ready for dual field setup, but rear housing seems to be the 70/71 design with both dual and single field provisions, should be able to accept your grounded brush.

I’m getting personally the TuffStuff 8509 for my car which is squareback and more correct to my 74.

About your loads… high and low headlights never work at the same time although lows sucks around a bit less of half of that. The stereo never will suck 10 amps, but 2 or 3. Rest are aprox correct (heater blower just at max speed around 8-10). If rains, add another 5 to 8 amps for wipers depending on wipers blades and glass conditions.

Cooling fans could be a bit lower, althought when starting up maybe close to that. Althought if dual fans depending on how you wire it (single or dual temp rate switch ) you can make it work single or dual and most of the time will blow just one.

Do you really need cooling fans in Norway? LOL. I still use the original fan clutch on my 74 in Venezuela (Heavy Duty since is A/C)

 

[khan68]

I’m living in Spain at this moment, althought my Charger is in Venezuela yet.

(Weather there is nice, but the rest sucks LOL).


The POWERMASTER 7019 would be the alternative to the TuffStuff 8509. But PowerMaster is also Roundback, which would be more “correct” to your 68. Since will come ready for dual field setup, but rear housing seems to be the 70/71 design with both dual and single field provisions, should be able to accept your grounded brush.

I’m getting personally the TuffStuff 8509 for my car which is squareback and more correct to my 74.

About your loads… high and low headlights never work at the same time although lows sucks around a bit less of half of that. The stereo never will suck 10 amps, but 2 or 3. Rest are aprox correct (heater blower just at max speed around 8-10). If rains, add another 5 to 8 amps for wipers depending on wipers blades and glass conditions.

Cooling fans could be a bit lower, althought when starting up maybe close to that. Althought if dual fans depending on how you wire it (single or dual temp rate switch ) you can make it work single or dual and most of the time will blow just one.

Do you really need cooling fans in Norway? LOL. I still use the original fan clutch on my 74 in Venezuela (Heavy Duty since is A/C)

Getting a bit off topic, will update with results on alternator once summit comes back to me.

Did not know that about the high/low, actually i wired up an extra wire/new socket to the low beam so i could use high there as well, this was after driving the car at night, the high beam was really poor.

Added some photos of the ongoing setup, installed a relay box next to radiator, this will feed fans and lights to begin with. Installed new dashharness and changed out the glass fuse box for 2 x ATO(1 for acc & 1 for main/battery feed) & a single fuse for the dash light like orginal.

Also did a testfit of new headunit for the stereo(tight fit!) i know this is not everybodys cup of tea but i like the idea to have GPS etc available in the dash for roadtrips, kept the orginal radio & trim for the next owner if they want the original setup.

Installed a automatic 60Amp fuse above bulkhead for parallell line going from alternator to main feed, thinking about wiring this straight to the fusebox instead of ammeter, this way i guess i take some of the load off the harness as well i guess..

If you have any ideas please let me know!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Please read couple of recent threads about where you must source accesories on ammeter equipped cars, and what does happen about the parallel wire bypassing the ammeter. Both started by 72RoadRunnerGTX, based on HARD discussions about these topics since ever

 

[khan68]

Please read couple of recent threads about where you must source accesories on ammeter equipped cars, and what does happen about the parallel wire bypassing the ammeter. Both started by 72RoadRunnerGTX, based on HARD discussions about these topics since ever

Yes i have read and there is alot of good information, 72roadrunnerGTX had a great video as well. The relay box in engine bay will be sourced from alternator to prevent any loads going through bulkhead.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes… I have been defending that same idea with diagrams since 2007… but the idea about link batt and alt with a jumper wire is not correct. That topic is not stickied yet but still on 1st page


EDITING:
OH… sorry, just read it better and noticed you are installing the extra wire to the fuse box, not to the batt

 

[Nacho-RT74]

On a discharge stage, the extra load for recharge will be running throught the harness still wiring it to the fuse box. So still trying to save some load at some stages, at some other stages will get that load. Is not posible a 100% free of the extra load everywhere.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh! The low beams are also highs, which are the outer (3 prongs). The inners are originally just highs (2 prongs)

Did you actually mean you become your 4 headlights into both low/highs with 3 prongs?

if you feel lack of lighting on headlights you also you can upgrade your headlights and break the link made. If still wish old fashion incandescent headlights, you can get halogens (those are the ones on my car, still sealed beams). Diff is HUGE, althought some load added ( handled with relays to save the switch ). And I barelly used highs with just outer lows being halogens