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Alternator Gauge issue

My question about "parallel" wiring I might assume here bypasses the bulkhead for connecting the gauge? I have unconnected wires with the new harness (two wires on one female a blue and striped green/blue wires) I'm thinking could be for the connection but not sure while I try to study more on this thing.
Your wiring system is later than mine (64), but if you stick with the basic wiring for the ammeter, two wires, and add two parallel wires, should be good to go. To answer your question, yes, the two added parallel wires need to go through the firewall, using a rubber grommet. That keeps those wires away from the bulkhead block...no connectors going through the firewall.
On those two blue wires your asking about, rely on a wiring diagram for your car, to get those answers. Harness for the car should be the same as stock, at least for a start. Wonder if those wires are for the voltage regulator? Diagram will show.
 
Yes the blue wire circuit feeds ign and regulator, same as choke if present and alt field prong if dual field alt.

Female blue wire? It does arrive to alt?

Can you post what car you have and whats the engine bay set up? Where are those unused wires?
 
Here's a pic of the bulkhead and relay. The unconnected wires I mentioned are on the top left of the photo at far upper left (as viewed) of relay pointing up for photoshoot. It looks like one wire; but there are the two wires in this female connector blue and green/blue wires. As logic would have it they are located where they should plug in to relay; but no spot for plug in relay is wired. There is a heavy gauge red wire in the bulkhead routed in a U pattern to both main BH connections (non-harness ones) I'm assuming as some sort of a bypass added?? My factory manual shows some added connectors I don't have and assume must have been for more options. And while the manual diagram shows the red wire to the relay (from right BH connector) it doesn't show the left wiring run; but this is a black wire that looks to be the alt fld wire. As I follow so far, I'm going to run parallel wires from the gauge thru the wall with the left connection wire on a fuse. Then I need to determine which two connections I need to plug into on each harness in the bulkhead?

Ply BH Wire.jpg
 
What car is it? Need more info. Which equipmemt do you have? Elect or mech reg? ECU? 4 or 5 pins ECU ? Dual or single ballast? Dual or single field alt?

Wider view pics.
 
Thanks for advice on this. 63 Fury I installed elect ign several years ago. Dual ballast and 5 pin. Alt was upgraded to accommodate this. Three wire alt connection black green blue. I'll send pic asap.
 
Here's a photo of fire wall wiring hope it's visible enough or I can send another pic. You mentioned dual ballast but mine isn't as I think I recall some ballasts having 4 connectors mine has two.

Firewall Wiring.jpg
 
Ok, thats a single ballast not dual. Dual balast are 4 prongs.

4 pins ECUs can be matched to single ballast, but 5 pins ECUs require dual ballast. Both use same 5 pins ECU plug just that the 4 pins one won't be sourced by the wire ( green traced red ) what should be coming from the secondary resistence from dual ballast.

Dual ballast setup uses 2 of these plugs

index.php


And look like this plugged on dual ballast

ballast-and-regulator-jpg.jpg




The two wires on right plug are the same source, ign, the two on the left are the coil and the green traced red wire what should source the 5th pin, unexistant on 4 pins ECUs.

Although sometimes the two blue wires from ign signal, are present like a jumper wire on plug, like this, but is the same.

mopp-1110-ballast-resistor-guide-ballast-blast-off-003.jpg


Wondering where is going the green traced red wire from ECU on your harness. Maybe hidden down the tape going nowhere, but then you should be using a 4 pins ECU.

The double blue wire hanging around on your car could be to feed electric choke control/coil maybe.



Definitelly there is something weird there.
 
Wires on starter relay!

I can see several wires arriving to starter relay stud what I can tell two thick red wires are, one to batt post, the other to bulkhead, BUT should get a fuse link just right before the bulkhead plug!

One of the red ones got another one what I can't tell the color... I could think initially to feed the horn relay, being violet, but normally all the electrical devices on car should be sourced from alt side not from batt side. Not a big deal for the horn really, just that when you gives horn, the ammeter won't register this.

Then also can see an added gray wire there... what are you feeding there? Seems to be an extra acc?
 
About the melted wire at bulkhead... it seems two wires ( black and red ) are spliced together with a screw and going inside the cab through the bulkhead?
 
I finally did get time to really check this out. Think I found the main issue and maybe a few minor ones. Doing detailed inspection, found nothing burnt or loose, even under dash. But what I did find was some fresh arcing "scars" on front of the exhaust manifold right behind the alternator. Looking at the main alternator wire, I did not see any place where the casing was split, but I re-wrapped it with electrical tape. I also zipped tied it away from the exhaust manifold so it couldn't arc again.

One thing that was odd was the other two wires on the alternator. I could wiggle the tabs on the back of the alternator about 1/8". This was not play in the connection, but the actual tabs them self. It's the standard O'Reilly alternator. Is this normal or an issue to have play in them or should I look at replacing alternator even though the output is fine? If suggestion is to replace it, what 3 wire alternator is recommended out there?
 
Is normal the prongs moving a bit.

Recomend an alt? Depending on funds for it LOL. It can be from $50-60 up to $200-250
 
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