Alternator options

[RJRENTON]

What is that second item from the bottom?View attachment 940842

Yes....you are absolutely correct....I simply missed seeing the listing....thank you for pointing it out. For my simple application, Mopar's standard capacity alternators will be just fine....and, should i need more amperage for high current DC applications, like arc welding, I'll consider one of the alternatives.
BOB RENTON

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yes....you are absolutely correct....I simply missed seeing the listing....thank you for pointing it out. For my simple application, Mopar's standard capacity alternators will be just fine....and, should i need more amperage for high current DC applications, like arc welding, I'll consider one of the alternatives.
BOB RENTON

So now your spending "Fake News"....
But yeah I don't need a jumbo alternator either... I have power windows & a power top, EFI but my 65 amp alternator has never had any issues keeping things going....

 

[RJRENTON]

So now your spending "Fake News"....
But yeah I don't need a jumbo alternator either... I have power windows & a power top, EFI but my 65 amp alternator has never had any issues keeping things going....

Exactly how much ampacity is needed/wanted is a function of the connected loads plus a margin of safety and the diversity factor as to which loads and when they are turned on. If you feel you want/need greater ampacity then that determination is up to you, the vehicle owner, and sarcastically noting, IF "arc welding" is being considered that should also be considered....."fake news" not withstanding or understood...???
BOB RENTON

 

[LemonWedge]

Figuring my amperage:
Ignition system: 8 amps (?)
Fuel pump: 5 amps
Water pump: 7 amps
Fan (on high) 24 amps
Dash & running lights: 8 amps (?)
Headlights: 10 amps (?)
I must be missing something...????

If Im in the ballpark here at all, I am at 62 amps with the lights on, 44 without. Am I in the ballpark here??? (Electrically challenged).

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Figuring my amperage:
Ignition system: 8 amps (?)
Fuel pump: 5 amps
Water pump: 7 amps
Fan (on high) 24 amps
Dash & running lights: 8 amps (?)
Headlights: 10 amps (?)
I must be missing something...????

If Im in the ballpark here at all, I am at 62 amps with the lights on, 44 without. Am I in the ballpark here??? (Electrically challenged).

Your in the ball park, some of your numbers are high but thats a good safety factor...

Ignition system: 8 amps (?). What ignition system are you running?
Fuel pump: 5 amps Same question..
Water pump: 7 amps. Same question
Fan (on high) 24 amps Again Same question..
Dash & running lights: 8 amps (?). Typically less than half that
Headlights: 10 amps (?). Typically about half that

 

[LemonWedge]

I wanted to figure on the high side.
Ignition: MSD 6al2 + Pertronix igniter 2 coil & Mallory magnetic dizzy
Fuel pump: Carter rotary vane elec.
Water pump: Proform #440-450
Fan: Derale #16822

the fan and water pump are new, the fan number is accurate straight off the install paperwork, the water pump draws 5-7.
The alternator is a stock 65 amp unit, but what is it putting out at typical 2500 - 3000 rpm driving?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I wanted to figure on the high side.
Ignition: MSD 6al2 + Pertronix igniter 2 coil & Mallory magnetic dizzy
Fuel pump: Carter rotary vane elec.
Water pump: Proform #440-450
Fan: Derale #16822

the fan and water pump are new, the fan number is accurate straight off the install paperwork, the water pump draws 5-7.
The alternator is a stock 65 amp unit, but what is it putting out at typical 2500 - 3000 rpm driving?

Typically alternators put out full amps by about 1200 rpms... That was the whole point, generators needed to be spun faster but alternators put out at low rpms..

 

[383man]

My son bought this one off the internet and I plan to put one on my 63. Its a one wire 100 amp alt and I like that it looks just like a stock Mopar alt. And it bolts up right in the same place as the stock alt with no mods. Ron

 

[RJRENTON]

My son bought this one off the internet and I plan to put one on my 63. Its a one wire 100 amp alt and I like that it looks just like a stock Mopar alt. And it bolts up right in the same place as the stock alt with no mods. Ron

View attachment 942526

Is it Powermaster unit? Its a square back alternator (+1972 design) with the voltage regulator components inside the frame. Just be careful of the existing field wire connections to prevent them from accidentally contacting ground and to upsize the output wire to at least #8 AWG THHN or THWN to handle the additional ampacity.
BOB RENTON

 

[383man]

Is it Powermaster unit? Its a square back alternator (+1972 design) with the voltage regulator components inside the frame. Just be careful of the existing field wire connections to prevent them from accidentally contacting ground and to upsize the output wire to at least #8 AWG THHN or THWN to handle the additional ampacity.
BOB RENTON

Yes the regulator is internal as its a one wire alt. Just use the output wire and go. Rated at 95 amps actually and has been working great on my sons car so I plan to put one con my 63 soon. And yes its a Powermaster unit. Ron

 

[Budnicks]

I've had a Chrome round back Chrysler style duel field
(& a chrome alt. bracket too, wahoo)
75 amp Powermaster Alternator since 2005-ish on my 68 RR
was like $120 from Summit racing IIRC
grounded out one of the fields, to the alt. body
just needed & only can use 1 for the 71 style solid state reg.
& CDI ignition (soon to be a Pertronixs quick-strike or dual-strike)
I have electric water-pump, 2 electric fans, electric fuel pump
upgraded Halogen 65 & 75watt lights added some 10ga wiring
to the starter relay + terminal on the firewall
from the main post of the alt. less draw, less distance
& far less stress on the Amp meter (internal dash)
shortens the path & far less path of resistance

seems to keep up great
I probably didn't need all 75 amps, but it works great
I needed more than the 48 amps the org. alt. puts out
& chrome looks better (wahoo)

swapped all over to serpentine belts too

all my electronics run thru 30-40 amp Bosche Relays too
on a separate aux. fuse box & Painless 4 switch panel arming/override switches
constant 12vt & no spikes ever (so far)
with grounds from the alt. body, to the car body
from the engine to chassis, from the (rear mounted) battery to body

more grounds the better

so far so good, I hope I didn't just jinx myself

cant hardly see it

 

[Jesse6869]

Just put power master on 1/2 hour ago with March pulley kit 165 amp alternator

 

[LemonWedge]

Are all square-back style alternators internally regulated? And if so, what do you do with the voltage regulator on the firewall? I’m running a square back style alternator in conjunction with a newer style (plastic case) voltage regulator. Could this be my problem?

my voltage guage ranges from 14+ to 11 and back.

 

[RJRENTON]

Are all square-back style alternators internally regulated? And if so, what do you do with the voltage regulator on the firewall? I’m running a square back style alternator in conjunction with a newer style (plastic case) voltage regulator. Could this be my problem?

my voltage guage ranges from 14+ to 11 and back.

Short answer....NO..all original square back alternators were EXTERNALLY regulated....only the Powermaster (there may be others) adaptations are internally regulated...hence the "one wire" description. The externally mounted voltage regulator can be left in place, for appearance, just DO NOT connect the blue and green wires going to the original alternator to anything....make sure they don't accidentally contact ground or the output stud of the in place alternator. In addition, since the alternator's driven sheave along with the crankshaft drive sheave determines the alternator's RPM and voltage produced, are these items the same size? Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[383man]

Short answer....NO..all original square back alternators were EXTERNALLY regulated....only the Powermaster (there may be others) adaptations are internally regulated...hence the "one wire" description. The externally mounted voltage regulator can be left in place, for appearance, just DO NOT connect the blue and green wires going to the original alternator to anything....make sure they don't accidentally contact ground or the output stud of the in place alternator. In addition, since the alternator's driven sheave along with the crankshaft drive sheave determines the alternator's RPM and voltage produced, are these items the same size? Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

You are right as not all square backs are internal regulators. In fact non were from the factory as its the aftermarket that has been adding internal regulation and the one wire setup. The one we put on my sons car has the same size alt pulley as stock which his car had. And of course the car should charge the same basically as the voltage reg will keep the cars electrical system supplied and the battery charged as before. It really should not put out more then before if your old alt supplied enough for your system. Even if you pit a 300 amp alt on the car it will only put out whats needed to supply the car and keep the battery charged. And if you have not added anything to the car you don't have to change the wiring. Its when you add systems to the car where the higher output alt will put out more to supply what you added that you need to upgrade and upsize some wiring. When you add an electric fan that will draw a good 20 amps or more on high. And any other electrical loads added to the car will cause the higher output alt to put out more. It will then put out enough to supply the electrical demands of the car and a small amount to keep the battery up to par. You just have to remember that adding any electrical items to your car will cause the alt to put out more and then you may need to upgrade some wiring. Ron

 

[LemonWedge]

Update:
Still haven’t figured this out. I have a friend from the racetrack that runs an alternator / starter rebuild company. He suggested going with a Denso alternator. He said that the high amp Chrysler design units still don’t work with the low-RPM efficiency of new-technology OEM units. He gave me a Denso alternator to fit, and he’ll rebuild it after I have the bracketry dialed in.
Problem arose quickly, however, as the power pole extending from the back of the alternator interferes with the head. I’m going to get together with him to see if he has a similar alternator with the power pole in a different location. I still wonder if a power master or similar wouldn’t be a simpler option and work just fine (???).

 

[1 Wild R/T]

http://arengineering.com/home-page/alternator-kits/

Andy's kits (AR Engineering) show as betting for the stock 60A alternators but there are plenty of 140+ amp versions of that case design available...

FWIW personally I don't have any problem with the low rpm efficiency of Chrysler alternators, are the newer designs better? Sure! Do you really need that? Probably not...

 

[LemonWedge]

Well, I ended up finding a Denso core that fit pretty well. It’s being rebuilt now, I’ll pick it up this week. Hopefully it will cure my problem. I’ll report back when it’s all done.

 

[383man]

This 100 amp Mopar alt thats a one wire with internal regulator works great for me on my 63. With my old 35-40 amp alt at night with my lights and electric fan on the volts would drop when at idle from 14 to about 12.5 and would go back to 14 when I stepped on the gas and got over 1500 rpm. With this one when I turn everything on at night at an idle the volts will drop for about a second then goes right back to 14 to 14.5 at idle with no problem. I like how it handles the charging system so easy as that electric fan draws a good bit. We have this same one on my sons Dart and we have raced it with it on his car. This alt is working great for us. Ron

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I installed a GM 1 wire over 15 years ago,still going strong! It's been mounted in 3 different places so far