Alternator question - 69 Super Bee

[bigmanjbmopar]

1 wire alt, that is all.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Hovever, their shown fix to the wiring issue does remove the bulk of the maximum charging amperage from the alternator out of the "cab"! As you say they did not.

I do admit that the "MAD" way eliminates the ammeter. The ammeter is a weak link. Some people convert their in dash ammeter to a volt meter. Quite a few write up's on this process.

False in two ways.

1-Maximun charge amperage happens ther JUST if you get a discharged batt. For a while you don't get a batt discharged or some extra load from batt what alternator is not able to feed, you'll NEVER get the constant car load there. For a while you will ALLWAYS get the load on the main splice inside the cab, no matter where comes the power source

2-The ammeter "weakness" happens ONLY when ( once again ) you get the batt discharged and get the engine reving up, ending on a full reading ammeter to Charge, OR whne you get a broken alt, and batt is sourcing all the juice to the car demands.

As far you have a good RELIABLE alternator, both, the ammeter and the buss on starter relay will never get ANY high load.

And if you get a reliable alternator IN FACT you only get ONE weak spot in all the play and is JUST the terminals on bulkhead from black wire coming from alt. NOT EVEN the red going to batt. Reinforce the red side is a need to because there is no exist an alt able to feed all the accesories working at the same time AT IDDLE. and when I say all accesories at the time I meant stuff like:

wipers, high beams ( and all lights ), AC on higher speed, and pressed brakes... and is something you can get easily if your car is a driver, and you are stuck on traffic at night down a heavy rain... ( it does happen, believe me )... although high beams on heavy traffic is not real, unless you want to disturb somebody LOL.

On that moment you can get maybe 70 amps demand ( specially with halogen lights ) and there is not exist a NORMAL aternator able to feed that at iddle, maybe just 60 amps being optimistic, the rest 10 amps will come from batt. There you need the reinforced red side plus when revs up to recharge the batt what lost on the 10 amps consume according with the time you required that load fom batt. And AMMETER is able to hande 10 amps easily, and also with a good alternator, a quick recharge when getting the normal car demand conditions.

The big mistake and missconception about ammeters comes from factory. They labeled the ammeter as alternator gauge and IS NOT, is A BATT GAUGE. How do you read a "discharged alt" on gauge if the alt is not an accumulator, just a generator ? Then is not an alternator gauge. Alternator Charges or not, but never Discharges or gets Discharged