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And So It Begins - Tremec TKX Conversion Into A 64 Polara

That’s what I was told that was needed to be done also with the treatment to the gears and sliders. We’ve got a local well known transmission shop that specializes in these modern manual transmissions, RPM Transmissions, Anderson Indiana, I’ve never asked them what they charge but I’m guessing it’s not cheap.
 
That’s what I was told that was needed to be done also with the treatment to the gears and sliders. We’ve got a local well known transmission shop that specializes in these modern manual transmissions, RPM Transmissions, Anderson Indiana, I’ve never asked them what they charge but I’m guessing it’s not cheap.
The carbon Fiber blocker rings & brass pads were around $250... The Micropolish & Cryogenic Processing was about $350... ( I could have easily doubled that by doing every gear, I only did the sliders & the gears that lock to the sliders) I didn't include those in what I spent to do the conversion cause they weren't really necessary... I did the tear down & reassembly so that was free... There are no gaskets, it's assembled with sealant..
 
The Tremec in my car shifts fine when cruising but yeah, the 1-2 shift above 6000 rpms isn't good. Mine is the last of the TKOs that Silver Sport had in stock as the TKX was being phased in. I was told that the TKXs all had the upgrades for improved shifts up to 6500 and that mine could be modified at extra cost. I chose to take it as is.
I didn't feel the need to run it past 6000 with the '528 cam I used to have since the engine peaked well below that. The too big cam I have now is just pulling hard past 5000, 5500, 6000 so it is tempting to run it well past 6000 but then when I upshift, it is as if a bar slapped across the 2nd gear gate because the shift lever just stops there and won't go into gear until the rpms drop. Oddly, if I run it to around 6000-6100 or so, it slides right in but much above that and I'm blocked. No grinding, just no movement into the gate.
 
I've been planning this conversion for 2 years now. I purchased the complete kit from SST Transmissions. For those who are interested, the complete kit was $5700 USD shipped. I've asked for a lot of advice and guidance on this forum which has helped me a lot, and it's probably not the last of it either - I've already run into two glitches. Anyhow, here's my story ----
Started the conversion last week. Taking out the front seat and because the car is a convertible, dropping the top makes interior access a ton easier.View attachment 1788464
Photo of car before I started.
View attachment 1788465
Next the dash comes out for easier access to change the pedals
View attachment 1788469

Pedal assembly removedView attachment 1788475

I had a glitch with the factory 4 speed pedal assembly - I thought the pedals I got with the car were from a 65 B Body, but they turned out to be from a 63 - there is a slight difference in the steering column bracket attachment - see this link to see how I solved this item - 64 Dodge 4 Speed Pedals - Install Issues
As per kit instructions, I removed factory clutch rod pin on the clutch pedal and installed supplied adjustable rod with new pin. I ground off the weld and the factory pin was knocked out.View attachment 1788488View attachment 1788489View attachment 1788490
After mocking up the new pedal assembly and hydraulic slave cylinder in the car, issue number two is apparent. Things don't line up and the connecting rod is to short.
View attachment 1788494View attachment 1788495

I sent a note to SST today with a few pics and will be on the phone with them tomorrow to try and resolve this issue. More to come!
Wade at SST suggested that I move the pedal connection lower on the pedal shaft. I was wondering if anyone else with an early B Body has done this. If so, a couple of pics would be helpful.
 
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