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Any Ideas on my 440

Hi,
Like i said everything in my engine was BRAND new besides the crank and conrods, the stealth heads were brand new ported polished heads massive ports compared to stock heads the only thing i had done to the engine was run the cam in for 30 mins and the book did say to retighten the rockers after this which i hadnt done yet.

as for 440 source i have heard so many good things from alot of people about there parts, are these people lying? i have invested neally 70k into my charger and drastically running out of coin, do i steer away from 440 source stroker kit? or good enough for my application, my charger will ost likely never see a drag strip as i have a833 4 speed with overdrive and 8 3/4 diff with 3:55 gears and detroit truetrac
 
sorry as a reply to gary, no the engine before i rebuilt never smoked not even when dropped to 4000rpm.

btw i forgot to mention this is a 76 cast crank block 440 dont think this would make a difference to my problem though
 
I built a 440 a few years ago, and when i got it all put together i, too, could not turn it over very easily. My hi torque starter turned it over fine so i went ahead and proceeded to start it (young and stupid). It started running great and no smoke, but i could hear terrible metal on metal grinding. long story short, my crank pulley bolts were too long....rubbing the oil slinger. :/ stupidity will prevail.
 
OK...

With the 2 symptoms you are describing..... oil use and tight motor...

Did you use low drag oil rings....

You pinched one on assembly and didn't know what to look for.....

Sure sounds like this is what happened...... if you couldn't push the piston in by hand with hardly any effort the oil ring popped out...

Do you remember any one piston being kinda needing more push...

.
 
Supershafts- all the pistons slid down the cylinders with not much difficulty.

Motorparts92- now that you mention it, i just recently put the march serpentine front end on and found some blots that were in my bolt pile and used them to fix the crank pulley on and then recently i have noticed a small oil leak in that region, i am wondering if i have doen the same thing (stupid) i will definetly have a look at this. thanks
 
So the engine is still tight? Did you pull the rocker shafts and see if it was still difficult to rotate, As IQ 52 suggested earlier?This will tell you if the tight engine problem is in the top end, or bottom end. Also, only other new motor I heard of that smoked real bad on initial start up, was a stroker with K B pistons. They forgot to put in the oil ring support rail. But I think this only applies if your wrist pin intersects the bottom of the oil ring groove. Then it needs a support rail. Good luck.
 
Also make sure your carb isn't dumping a ton of fuel in there, as when the needle and gets dirty and wont close all the way.
 
Supershafts- all the pistons slid down the cylinders with not much difficulty.

They should easily slide, the word difficulty is not something i would associate with pushing a piston down or up a new cylinder.


Honestly, i would have stopped and started pulling the heads off already, because if you keep playing games looking to see where it spins easier . . . you are doing more damage everytime you turn it
 
Thanks guys,
found my problem you wont believe it, but i had the pcv running from valve cover into the vacuum port of the carb on the passenger valve cover and one running from the driver cover to the air filter, but after careful examination my aftermarket valve covers dont have baffle covers in them so the strong oil pressure i have in m engine was squirting oil straight into the pcv pipe which was squirting oil straight into my carbie lol, problem fixed welded in plates in the valve covers ,

i tell ya this was a hard one to find lol
 
Well sure glad you found the problem! Need to keep that in mind when I build my next motor. Let us know how she runs after you get it all dialed in! C Ya
 
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