Any tile guys out there?

[747mopar]

I've got 500 sq ft of tile to lay in the basement but have some issues. The floor was poured on a very hot day so it isn't perfect and cracked in a few places which has me questioning whether or not the crack will reappear in the tile?
They sell some stuff that can be motored down beforehand to eliminate the issue but the price is outrageous especially given the cracks are mostly in one small room.. maybe 60sqft?

What I'd like to do is chisel the cracks out and patch them then use some self leveling grout? Also the direction I'll be laying the tile will run inline with the cracks which I think will lessen the problem..what do you think? If my memory serves me correctly the cracks appeared shortly after the pour but haven't shifted at all in 16 years.

Just looking for suggestions.

 

[Cranky]

Bob?

 

[MarPar]

Any tile guys?? Sheeit...we have THE tile man here!!

@bobtile

 

[vintage chromoly]

Best to use the “membrane” crack bridge material.
I believe it’s made by a Swedish company. Better to spend the dough now, as opposed to looking at cracked tile forever.

 

[vintage chromoly]

Here’s a cheaper version:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homelux...Isolation-Joint-Tape-HDURA-STR-10US/205894990

 

[vintage chromoly]

Here’s the expensive version:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-S...e-Plastic-Waterproofing-Tile-Membrane/3580144

 

[747mopar]

Here’s the expensive version:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-S...e-Plastic-Waterproofing-Tile-Membrane/3580144

That's the one.... $800+ . Looking at the Home Depot one you posted, looks like you just tape the joint? I would think fixing the crack would be better? The reason I'm leaning towards fixing the cracks is because I successfully fixed one 15 years ago that is still solid and hasn't came back. I don't doubt that the membrane is a great product but it pisses me off when a product comes out and gains traction (Holmes on Homes) then all of a sudden it's $$$$$.. for crying out loud they want as much per sqft as some tiles are and it's just a roll of plastic!

Keep in mind the major reason for not wanting to buy this is 85% of the floor is crack free so I'd have to cover it all to maintain the same height.

Thanks

 

[vintage chromoly]

I’m not a tile guy (I’ve set tons of tile, but not my trade), but I’ve seen the tile guys at work “tape” the cracks and feather out the joints. They use this approach in large areas, as there are no concrete floors that are crack free.

 

[Budnicks]

calling @bobtile

"the FBBO tile-man"

 

[aeon280]

I no longer do tile, but did commercially many years ago. Its not cheap but this is what you use to level the floor before laying tile. Its a polyelastomer compound so it has some flex to it once set so the cracks should not show up in your finished product. This particular brand says to use a primer before but I never have. coverage depends on how out of level you are. If you have large crack you might consider using a cement crack filler first but if they are just feather cracks this will work fine.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Self...eXx8-DN8z9pcnEBchW2cyaQHqcqASo2YaAsUlEALw_wcB

 

[skicker]

Devon...You say the cracks are mainly in one room...What about using the expensive product (or the cheap one) and then using Ardex on the floor to fix the height transition? Basically just float the floor out with Ardex away from what I assume is a door?

 

[747mopar]

I no longer do tile, but did commercially many years ago. Its not cheap but this is what you use to level the floor before laying tile. Its a polyelastomer compound so it has some flex to it once set so the cracks should not show up in your finished product. This particular brand says to use a primer before but I never have. coverage depends on how out of level you are. If you have large crack you might consider using a cement crack filler first but if they are just feather cracks this will work fine.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Self...eXx8-DN8z9pcnEBchW2cyaQHqcqASo2YaAsUlEALw_wcB

That's what I bought just different brand, makes me feel better. Thanks

 

[747mopar]

Devon...You say the cracks are mainly in one room...What about using the expensive product (or the cheap one) and then using Ardex on the floor to fix the height transition? Basically just float the floor out with Ardex away from what I assume is a door?

What's Ardex?

 

[skicker]

Home Depot under search...
Its a really thin compound they use to level concrete floors prior to a VCT or laminate installation...very thin and flows out good...pour it on...smooth with a trowel...and then feather the edges to nothing...

https://www.homedepot.com/s/ardex%20feather%20finish?NCNI-5

 

[MarPar]

Got a pic, Dev?

 

[aeon280]

That's what I bought just different brand, makes me feel better. Thanks

Your welcome.

 

[metaldad]

thanks for the link, skicker
ive used 'jif set'. not real happy with the results

 

[bobtile]

If the crack hasn't moved in all that time, I would use the crack suppression tape if cost was an issue.
I now use Schluter ditra on any job that will pay the extra money for material and labor.
Schluter ditra is an uncoupling membrane that is great for use over concrete floors.
If your doing the job yourself, it would cost about 750 bucks for the material.
Imo, it's the best way to go.

 

[Cranky]

I think Bob's last name is Tile.....

 

[bobtile]

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