At what point is a driveshaft loop required?

[snakeyes]

 

[Zeppelin264]

I took this from a older NHRA rule book. I believe this rule still stands.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

The 11.49/7.35 is what our track requires on radials. Pretty sure that's NHRA rules too.

 

[Zeppelin264]

I put one of these loops on both my cars. No drilling required. Bolts to the trans cross member.
View attachment 511187
http://www.manciniracing.com/mabebofrdrsh.html

Do you have pics with the exhaust installed using this setup?

 

[69 GTX]

Our track requires a loop if running slicks, also open end lugnuts, regardless of ET.

 

[dart4forte]

NHRA sanctioned tracks are obligated to follow the basic NHRA rules. Most often they exceed the rules changing ET thresholds etc. It a matter of liability. I wonder if there are any track owners or managers that are members here that can pipe in?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I suggest you call the track and just ask. Even the $25 type i run can be installed in 2 hrs with a handfull of washers for spacers. If it's not rquired then it is up to you....but a good idea IMO

 

[Shorthorse]

Here you go, NHRA General Rules section. It's best to read up on the other sections too. Lots of different attitudes about the rules. Some tracks do a thorough inspection but in my experience, most don't. Regardless, you want to be safe and you sure hope the guy in the other lane has the same concerns.
Have fun, be safe and let us know how you did.

http://promod.nhra.com/userfiles/file/Tech/2017_NHRA_Rulebook_Gen. Regs.pdf

 

[66Satellite47]

NHRA says 13.99 or quicker with slicks, 11.49 or quicker with street tires. I broke a stock driveshaft once in my '65 Coronet going through the traps, mid 12 second car. Tossed half the driveshaft out the back which flew directly over the windshield of my best friend in the other lane. Tailshaft housing disintegrated, output shaft bent about 2", trans case broken at the bell housing area off the motor. First thing I did when I bought my Satellite was order a 3" chrome moly thick wall shaft with 1350 U joints. A loop is mandatory in my opinion. BTW drag radial street tires hook as hard as many slicks.

 

[Budnicks]

Generally required with sticky tires or slicks. However local track rules may require it at a certain ET level, 13 seconds or quicker.
Doug

If you're using Slicks a front drive shaft safety loop @ min.
it is required at any track with NHRA insurance &/or sanctioning
regardless of ET/MPH

http://www.nhraracer.com/content/general.asp?ariticleid=47000&zoneid=132

some cases a rear/mid driveshaft loop is required too,
but it'd be far faster than the car we are talking about here...

personally I think;
it's a great idea for any car with "any decent power/modifications",
especially with modified suspension & ride heights changes
more so especially if you're doing burnouts {like most "real" car guys will}
or hard launches, especially with any types of sticky tires
& you don't want to pogo-sticking down the track/street,
when the front U-Joints fails/you're on borrowed time otherwise...

 

[watermelon]

where are the $25 drive shaft loops at?

any links?


thanks,

watermelon

 

[GetX'd]

where are the $25 drive shaft loops at?

any links?


thanks,

watermelon

Check Summit Racing. A good investment at any price.

 

[conv67bdere]

Built mine into the car frame - rocker to rocker - to also allow for mounting of my new Bucket Seats . . .

 

[Budnicks]

A COOL BOLT IN ONE FROM MANCINI RACING
Steel version, it's pricey @ $179.95
nice clean & easy installation
adjustable & bolts to the 2 center bolts on the transmission cross-member

I have a similar one out of 7075 T6 Alum. one on my
"the B_I_T_C_H" she's a mostly street drive 68 RR

I paid far less, then that $179 too,
{they've doubled in price}

IIRC the name of the company I got it from,
1 x B-Mopar Driveshaft Loop, for $54.99 {Nov. 2010}
"Pro Aluminum Products", was what it was marketed under IIRC
my receipt was from
Prairie View Industries Inc., Fairbury NE...
it looks pretty much identical to the steel one from
Mancini Racing above

not sure if they still make them

 

[snakeyes]

its just a GM but it gives you an idea what can happen , safety equipment its there for you safety street or track happens some where around 2:35

 

[Budnicks]

Competition Engineering sells like a $46-$47 universal bolt-in style too
but you need to drill the floors

Lakewood universal bolt-in for under $40

Allstar universal bolt-in for under $30

these are not anything like the quality of the
MRE {Mancini Racing} or the Pro Alum. Products
ones in my previous post

 

[snakeyes]

 

[Sonny Black]

my baby brothers.....

 

[snakeyes]

sonny that is very nice

 

[Badvert65]

NHRA says 13.99 or quicker with slicks, 11.49 or quicker with street tires. I broke a stock driveshaft once in my '65 Coronet going through the traps, mid 12 second car. Tossed half the driveshaft out the back which flew directly over the windshield of my best friend in the other lane. Tailshaft housing disintegrated, output shaft bent about 2", trans case broken at the bell housing area off the motor. First thing I did when I bought my Satellite was order a 3" chrome moly thick wall shaft with 1350 U joints. A loop is mandatory in my opinion. BTW drag radial street tires hook as hard as many slicks.

The exact same thing happened to me. Spit half the driveshaft out going through the traps (65 Fury) when the rear joint failed. Front half of the driveshaft beat the crap out of my exhaust and put a dent in the floor. Broke the trans at the bell housing and the starter broke off. Rear half was spit out and shot in front of (but missing) the guy in the other lane.
I still have the front half of the driveshaft to remind me to build in safety.

 

[Zeppelin264]

my baby brothers.....
View attachment 511298

Thank you! was wondering if it would work with an X pipe