Autoline Carb bog (video included)

[1967coronet]

Once you advance you will need to reset your idle speed , it will rise with advancing.
All things considered, if it's running fine once it's warmed up you may want to run it as is for awhile , pull the plugs then and check how it's burning.

 

[Dennis Weden]

I need to know how to post a question

 

[440 4 speed]

WHO OR WHAT IS AN "AUTOLINE" CARB?? specific model C6023 as referenced. Who manufactured it.....its not OEM. What happened to the origional carb? The pix only shows the air filter canister.

Researching AUTOLINE....they are nothing more than a rebuilding company.......The C6024 is a rebuilt CARTER 1-1/4" BBD carb. The Autoline site lists the standard boiler plate wording: quality parts, cleaning, assembled with care, plus the warranty, its nothing special....just a std rebuilt carb. You would be better off having the origional carb RESTORED by a professional rather than an unknown rebuilder using any/all available parts....which are usually non compatible by origional application....and in this case, likely misapplied.....just becsuse it physically fits doesn't mean it will function correctly.......just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON

Autoline is a very reputable company. Moved to their new location about 1967 in Winnipeg. They have been in business for at least 57 years. Most jobbers send clients carbs and other parts to Autoline. I can go to our WSSL store that sells all kinds of automotive parts, tools and other things and they send my parts to Autoline. When your carb for example goes to them, YOUR carb comes back. My original Bendix master cylinder will be sent there. They are certainly well known in Canada. I personally know of Autoline rebuilt carbs being raced at our drag strip. People are happy.

 

[pjoll84]

Yes 5 degree , like allready posted advance it between 5 to 10 and see how it runs once you get a light.
Clean around the distributor base with some brake clean ect.
Make a referance mark with a marker or chalk before moving timing.
You can not really get a good adjustment on the air fuel settings or timing with a cold engine.
Glad you got it running better

Hey, figured I’d keep this thread alive who may be experiencing similar issues. I’ve learned a lot from your advice and using older tools. Took me awhile to figure out how to get the old old sears timing light to work. It was missing the adapter. I got one of those spark tester things from my dad and shoved the smallest drill bit I could find up in the boot and clipped it on (for anyone who is trying to get theirs working after picking it up from a yard sale)

Put a paint pen to the distributor and the timing line on the crank pulley… and she was SQUARE on ‘O’… emissions central. I’ve set it at 8 BTDC and the whole engine started running even smoother… I’m currently waiting for my modifier for the diff fluid change so I can’t report on how she drives but… the initial changes look and sound good!

I guess I just want to say thanks for all your help… despite being the black sheep with a van motorhome, yall still help out. Cheers and enjoy the weekend!

 

[pjoll84]

Back for another week of dialing things in.

So the mojo does not like 8 BTDC… pinging badly under load (sounds like a diesel when I’m gunning it) so I’ve brought it back down to where my first mark was for the time being. Shop manual says 2.5+— BTC so I’ll restart my carb tune up and timing. I’ve ordered a vacuum gauge for the air/fuel mixture… I just don’t have enough experience to “know” what it’s supposed to sound like.

Still a bit of a bog either way so I guess I’m back at square 1 lol… after it’s good and warm I’ll:
-set initial timing with the vacuum advance tube plugged to roughly 4 BTDC
-set idle to spec and change the air/fuel at 18-20hg on the gauge, mess with idle if I have to and take it for a rip and see what happens
(When using the vacuum gauge for air/fuel, do I tap in to the bottom port that currently feeds the snorkle
Thing on my air cleaner? And do I keep the advance hose plugged in to my dizzy or does that need to be taken off and capped?)

I’ve confirmed there is a new distributor and new points and condenser. If I suck on the tube that connects to the vacuum canister, nothing happens but if twist the rotor and let go, it springs back to position.

 

[pjoll84]

Ok… here’s the latest update… starting to feel like a journal entry lol

1) Warmed up the car (motorhome)
2) at peak warm engine, adjusted to idle to 800rpms.
3)unplugged vacuum advanced and adjusted the timing to 5BTDC
4) readjusted the idle and plugged the dizzy back in.
5) Hooked up my vacuum gauge to a manifold port and HOLY HELL was this thing running lean… like a thick milkshake and too small a straw. It was roughly 12hg…
6)Adjusted air/fuel to where the meter was reading 18-20hg.

Runs a lot better… I don’t know if it’s worth it to throw more advance in there? It’s a motorhome so I don’t know how much get up and go I should be expecting?

 

[pjoll84]

I’m not sure if my vacuum advance is working or if this is all k will get out of a small block with a giant home on its back lol

When I timed it to 6-7 BTDC there was pinging under load so I just sat there driving with the dizzy and twisted it until the pinging stopped. Doesn’t seem to like anything more then 4 BTDC… still at 18hg for air/fuel.

I think it’s as good as it going to get.