B Bodies and Road Courses - My Super Bee Setup

[Superbeemike]

Wonder if they'll fit under the dog dish caps...

The dog dish caps fit with the longer studs.

*not sure I like the caps on there with the wide wheels. It’s like wearing a suit when you have a mullet.

 

[Superbeemike]

Here’s pics of it outdoors, before I did the studs, with the caps. I like it better without them.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

The dog dish caps fit with the longer studs.

*not sure I like the caps on there with the wide wheels. It’s like wearing a suit when you have a mullet.

View attachment 1250775 View attachment 1250776

I LIKE IT!
Can I install the studs, without pulling the axles?

 

[Superbeemike]

I LIKE IT!
Can I install the studs, without pulling the axles?

I'm pretty sure I was able to squeeze them in for the rears. I used a lug nut and washer to pull them tight to the hub flange. If you do it this way, make sure the stud is lubricated well. For the front, I had to disassemble the hub/rotor and I used my press to get them out and in.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I'm pretty sure I was able to squeeze them in for the rears. I used a lug nut and washer to pull them tight to the hub flange. If you do it this way, make sure the stud is lubricated well. For the front, I had to disassemble the hub/rotor and I used my press to get them out and in.

You did the fronts too?
I thought you only did the rears because of the 3mm spacers.
Why the fronts?

 

[Superbeemike]

You did the fronts too?
I thought you only did the rears because of the 3mm spacers.
Why the fronts?

I was concerned about the loads the wheel/studs would be taking on with the track use. Its a heavy car with that 440 out front. Back in the old days, I raced an old chrysler on a dirt track and it would kill studs and wheels on the right front. I upgraded that car to 5/8" racing studs and never had an issue again. I figured it would be a good idea on the Bee as well, although they are 1/2", not the 5/8" racing studs. Plus I'm OCD and having longer studs on just the rear would drive me crazy.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I was concerned about the loads the wheel/studs would be taking on with the track use. Its a heavy car with that 440 out front. Back in the old days, I raced an old chrysler on a dirt track and it would kill studs and wheels on the right front. I upgraded that car to 5/8" racing studs and never had an issue again. I figured it would be a good idea on the Bee as well, although they are 1/2", not the 5/8" racing studs. Plus I'm OCD and having longer studs on just the rear would drive me crazy.

I bought the 86165 Milodon studs, I think they are the ones used. Did you use the same for the front.

 

[Superbeemike]

I bought the 86165 Milodon studs, I think they are the ones used. Did you use the same for the front.

Those are what I used in the rear. My memory fails me on the fronts. I remember they were specific with the knurl size and specific since I was using A-Body front disc brakes.

*Edit - Looking at the A-Body wheel stud size, they have a 0.673 knurl on a 1/2"-20 stud. The Milodon 86165 studs have a 0.675 Knurl, are 1/2"-20, and are 3" long. I might have used those on the front too, hence why I used the press.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Mike, what calipers did you go with when you converted to front disc brakes? I'm running Wilwood Forged Dynalites and they fit inside my 15" wheels. My achilles is the stock Wilwood BP-10 pads. I just bought some EBC reds and am anxious to try them out.

 

[Superbeemike]

Mike, what calipers did you go with when you converted to front disc brakes? I'm running Wilwood Forged Dynalites and they fit inside my 15" wheels. My achilles is the stock Wilwood BP-10 pads. I just bought some EBC reds and am anxious to try them out.

I’m using stock A Body calipers. They are the slide type. The EBC pads work great for me. Mine are yellows. I’m planning to part out a 76’ Coronet highway patrol car soon and plan to take the larger brakes from that. That old cop car has the 11.75 rotors.

 

[autoxcuda]

I’m using stock A Body calipers. They are the slide type. The EBC pads work great for me. Mine are yellows. I’m planning to part out a 76’ Coronet highway patrol car soon and plan to take the larger brakes from that. That old cop car has the 11.75 rotors.

If the Cop cars has slider calipers, all you need is the caliper adapters and 11.75 rotors (new or used) for you to swap.

If you don’t have a donor car, www.doctordiff.com sells the slider caliper adapters

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I’m using stock A Body calipers. They are the slide type. The EBC pads work great for me. Mine are yellows. I’m planning to part out a 76’ Coronet highway patrol car soon and plan to take the larger brakes from that. That old cop car has the 11.75 rotors.

yeah, I have 11.75" rotors from Napa Auto with caliper adapters and the Wilwood Dynalites.
Your stock A body calipers should work great with the larger rotors and adapter. Those are single piston I believe? I haven't found any advantage of the 4 pistons I'm using (over the single piston) since they're so small to fit in my 15" wheels. I kind of wish I would have kept my stock A body slider calipers I had instead of selling them before I had the chance to give these Wilwoods a good shakedown. I'm hoping the EBC reds are a noticeable improvement. I mean, with the Wilwood BP-10 pads they stop the car, but they sure ain't snappy. Maybe that's actually a good thing so it's progressive, but I definitely need more bite.

 

[Superbeemike]

Thanks guys, I’ll definitely grab those caliper brackets.

If I remember right, back when I was doing the disc conversion, I read something about clamping force and that the stock calipers had a great deal of force. Gosh it’s been awhile but I think the math supported the stock stuff being better, but unfortunately heavier. I also think I recall the 11.75 setup had more pad surface area. I’d have to look all of that up again.

 

[Orig69]

Thanks guys, I’ll definitely grab those caliper brackets.

If I remember right, back when I was doing the disc conversion, I read something about clamping force and that the stock calipers had a great deal of force. Gosh it’s been awhile but I think the math supported the stock stuff being better, but unfortunately heavier. I also think I recall the 11.75 setup had more pad surface area. I’d have to look all of that up again.

If you want to use the 11.75 rotors you will need to replace the spindles and the caliper adapters. The 11.75 rotors are physically wider than the 10.95 rotors which means the front wheels will be considerably closer to the fenders which will also make the front sway bar less effective. The 11.75 setup is considerably heavier than the 10.95 setup. Both brake setups use the same brake pads.

 

[Superbeemike]

If you want to use the 11.75 rotors you will need to replace the spindles and the caliper adapters. The 11.75 rotors are physically wider than the 10.95 rotors which means the front wheels with be considerably closer to the fenders which will also make the front sway less effective. The 11.75 setup is considerably heavier than the 10.95 setup. Both brake setups use the same brake pads.

Interesting information. I'll make sure to grab everything from the parts car.

Orig69....Any idea how much it moves the wheel outwards?

 

[sam dupont]

On my autocrosser, weight made a noticeable difference in the car. I went from steel wheels to magnesium. Steel wheels were about 30 lbs each, Mag wheels were 13 lbs, wheel and tire. Unsprung weight is important. Looked at 16 inch wheels once, but the weight was unacceptable.

 

[Orig69]

Best guess 3/8 of an inch maybe more.

 

[Kern Dog]

If you want to use the 11.75 rotors you will need to replace the spindles and the caliper adapters. The 11.75 rotors are physically wider than the 10.95 rotors which means the front wheels will be considerably closer to the fenders which will also make the front sway bar less effective. The 11.75 setup is considerably heavier than the 10.95 setup. Both brake setups use the same brake pads.

The "spindles" are actually knuckles from my understanding and they can fit either the 11 or 12 inch rotors. My steering knuckles are from a '75 Dart. The 12" ( 11.75") rotors are from a Cordoba and the calipers are OEM for a 77 Aspen with the 2.75 bore. To fit the 12" rotor, they used a taller caliper mount bracket.
They are heavy though!

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

The "spindles" are actually knuckles from my understanding and they can fit either the 11 or 12 inch rotors. My steering knuckles are from a '75 Dart. The 12" ( 11.75") rotors are from a Cordoba and the calipers are OEM for a 77 Aspen with the 2.75 bore. To fit the 12" rotor, they used a taller caliper mount bracket.
They are heavy though!

this is the setup I'm running on my car. The knuckles are spec'd for a late model Cordoba like KD says. I originally sourced some from Master Power Brakes, but then later found out that Magnum Force Racing was offering the same thing but as a drop spindle setup. They look stock in construction, but are dropped 2" so I can keep the front down a bit instead of making the torsion bars do all of that and lose their spring force. Works pretty well for me. My rotors from Napa Auto are 1" thick x 11.75".

 

[Mac The Bloody]

Thanks Superbeemike for starting this discussion one year ago today. As a fairly new member here I have to say it's one of the most interesting things I've seen on these forums so far.

I am taking a fresh look at my plans for my GTX after reading through the whole thread.