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B Body power brake installation problems

2Shea

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Aug 23, 2015
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Manitoba
Hello. New to the forum and working on a friends 70 Superbee 383 magnum.August/69 build date. This was originally a drum/drum car. We've installed Wilwood front rotors and 4 piston calipers. A PB8536-2 booster with a Raybestos 36283 M/C. I also installed a Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve just downstream from the distribution block on the framerail.

We've been unable to get this car out of the shop due to a rock hard pedal.

I've bled the system. Strong stream at the front calipers...decent at the rears.
I've checked the vacuum hose at the booster and blew into the check valve and that's working fine.
Initially the brake pedal was extremely high so after looking at a friends 69 satellite I noted that his pedal was a lot lower.
I drilled another hole in the pedal 1" lower and that appeared to make it worse.

Now, there's conflicting data on the net as to the MBM kit numbers. There is also a PB8536-1 and that shows it's for the 66-69 while the 70 and up take the -2 kit. On other sites it shows the -1 fits the 66-70.

Does anyone know what the difference is between the -1 and the -2 kits?

It almost appears that maybe the pin in the front is too long and has already pushed in on the bore piston once it is tightened up??
Is the push rod out the rear of the boosters different?

We're at a loss here...any help would be appreciated. Thanks.....John
 
Thank you for the welcome!! 99 views and no one has run into this before???
Regards...>john
 
Could very well be the pin that actuates the master cylinder from the booster. Factory ones were adjustable and should be adjusted for a small amount of free play between the pin and master cylinder bore. If yours is not adjustable, you might need a matched master cylinder. If the pin is too long it will compress the master cylinder and put pressure in the brake lines. Test this by cracking a bleeder with the no pressure on the pedal. If fluid sprays out, you are actuating your master cylinder.
 
Thanks dpstark2. Seems my suspicions are correct. I recall when the master was bolted on there was some resistance...maybe the pin was already actuating the piston in the bore of the mc. Since posting I have been in conversation with Pirate Jack. He confirmed that I definitely have the wrong booster, our supplier should have sold us the PB8536-1 which is for 66-70 b bodies. 70-74 E bodies and 71 -74 B bodies take the PB8536-2. He didn't have both handy to make a comparision as they are a drop ship site. He did feel that there is a difference in the input rod connecting the pedal so I'm wondering if in fact there is a difference in the front output pin at the MC as well. I'm ordering in the -1 in the am.
I'll keep the site apprised of the outcome so hopefull
 
Yes, that's what came in the -2 kit..so obviously wrong.

John
 
Got the new booster in. Bled brakes again just because.. then put the car in gear and the brakes appeared to be on . Lifted the brake pedal and it was fine. Brake on again and again the pedal had to be lifted. Then I noticed that my buddys 69 satellite has a return spring on the dogbone to the upper portion of the framework under the dash. Would this cause my problem or do I have something else going on here? My next course of action is to loosen the 4 m/c bolts and place a washer underneath to space it out and see if this would allow the pedal to return to the fully upright position. If so then this tells me that the pin needs to be shortened in the front of the booster...thoughts?
 
Yep. Endplay was a tad too tight. Adjusted it, installed the brake pedal spring and all is well. Thanks to all that responded!

John
 
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