B Body wannaB

[Jerry Hall]

Thanks! I know the drain of a long distance haul to nail a purchase, but haven’t (yet) experienced coming home empty handed. Like you said that would be crushing. Sorry you had to go through that.

I have to be resolved to focus on learning more about the keys ‘what to look for, and how to accurately assess it, versus getting too far out on my skis looking at actual sexy girls right now. And I have a lot to learn about those particulars.

Thank you sir!

Number one, don't buy just because you are there.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

On the flip side, sometimes the good one isn't picture perfect. Baby Blue, the '68 GTX I sold a few years ago for around 20 times my original purchase price in 1983 didn't photograph well, initially, really shabby paint. Shown below, in 2021. Paint job cost $2100 in 1985, spent about $5000 on mechanical details when I owned the car the second time from 2013 to 2021. All trim on the car was new OEM when I bought it, didn't show in the pictures, half was boxed in the trunk, not mentioned in the for sale ad. Exhaust tips are assembly line originals purchased in the mid-seventies, been on the car for 39 years.

View attachment 1713510

That's one of the ‘good girls’ right there! GTXs are very cool. Congrats on 20x. Actually, I feel finding that seller who has owned it a long time like yourself is more likely treated her with love and a better find especially for a first timer like me?

You make a good point that pictures rarely tell a thousand (true) words.

 

[69Bee]

Welcome from AZ...

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Thanks! And ‘69 is my fav year for Bees!

 

[gurban1usa]

Good luck with your search. Welcome aboard from Chicago!!

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Thanks! Great support here from all my bbodybuds!

 

[HD539]

Welcome from Washington State.

 

[RoadRunner1970]

Welcome

 

[oldbee]

Welcome aboard from Ohio & good luck on search.

 

[HawkRod]

That's one of the ‘good girls’ right there! GTXs are very cool. Congrats on 20x. Actually, I feel finding that seller who has owned it a long time like yourself is more likely treated her with love and a better find especially for a first timer like me?

You make a good point that pictures rarely tell a thousand (true) words.

I like the idea of buying a car that was painted at least several years ago.

Why? Freshly painted cars can hold rust secrets that have just been covered up with shiny new paint, but can bubble through within a year or two. When you buy a car that was painted awhile ago, you are more likely to be getting a more realistic idea of the condition of the body from a rust perspective.

 

[68BabyBlue]

I like the idea of buying a car that was painted at least several years ago.

Why? Freshly painted cars can hold rust secrets that have just been covered up with shiny new paint, but can bubble through within a year or two. When you buy a car that was painted awhile ago, you are more likely to be getting a more realistic idea of the condition of the body from a rust perspective.

Similar issue with my A33 car, the only freshly painted one I ever bought. No rust issues, but less than perfect paint prep by the seller led to myriad small fish eyes a few years later, a major issue when trying to sell the car. It's been bid really high at auction, and sold at a nosebleed price from a dealer recently. I suspect the players haven't done a personal inspection. Here's a recent professional photo taken just prior to an 81k auction bid, and believe me, it hides the warts well. The paint on my current GTX was over 20 years old when I bought it, and it's still nearly perfect.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Welcome from Washington State.

Thank you!

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Similar issue with my A33 car, the only freshly painted one I ever bought. No rust issues, but less than perfect paint prep by the seller led to myriad small fish eyes a few years later, a major issue when trying to sell the car. It's been bid really high at auction, and sold at a nosebleed price from a dealer recently. I suspect the players haven't done a personal inspection. Here's a recent professional photo taken just prior to an 81k auction bid, and believe me, it hides the warts well. The paint on my current GTX was over 20 years old when I bought it, and it's still nearly perfect.
View attachment 1714153

I like the idea of buying a car that was painted at least several years ago.

Why? Freshly painted cars can hold rust secrets that have just been covered up with shiny new paint, but can bubble through within a year or two. When you buy a car that was painted awhile ago, you are more likely to be getting a more realistic idea of the condition of the body from a rust perspective.

Similar issue with my A33 car, the only freshly painted one I ever bought. No rust issues, but less than perfect paint prep by the seller led to myriad small fish eyes a few years later, a major issue when trying to sell the car. It's been bid really high at auction, and sold at a nosebleed price from a dealer recently. I suspect the players haven't done a personal inspection. Here's a recent professional photo taken just prior to an 81k auction bid, and believe me, it hides the warts well. The paint on my current GTX was over 20 years old when I bought it, and it's still nearly perfect.
View attachment 1714153

Another really interesting point I would not have intuitively thought to consider! Being the rookie I hadn’t thought of it that way.

In the overall (current) priority of a target profile buy it so happens quality paint and perfect body are not at the top relatively speaking. A recently refreshed big block, 4 spd a must, and preferably a seller who has loved her for a longer time are higher in my book. Paint/body may be an area I can/have to sacrifice to a degree to stay within budget.

So, besides a seller’s full disclosure I’ve have been unsure why I see some descriptions reference ‘older paint’. It makes sense your point may be at least part of the reasoning an owner discloses that particular aspect?

I really do appreciate the feedback here you’ve provided to this post. Super relevant and helpful!

 

[68BabyBlue]

To reiterate my post #38, what turned out to be the best deal I ever made, had the worst paint. Similar deal with the one I replaced it with in 1991. One owner car, seller told me it needed a paint job. Underlying metal was nearly flawless, mechanical condition was perfect, didn't even have to charge the A/C in seven years I owned it. Car hasn't been repainted to this day. Still in the Detroit area, VIN RS23L9A215848. For any GTX guys reading this, if it comes up for sale, buy it.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

To reiterate my post #38, what turned out to be the best deal I ever made, had the worst paint. Similar deal with the one I replaced it with in 1991. One owner car, seller told me it needed a paint job. Underlying metal was nearly flawless, mechanical condition was perfect, didn't even have to charge the A/C in seven years I owned it. Car hasn't been repainted to this day. Still in the Detroit area, VIN RS23L9A215848. For any GTX guys reading this, if it comes up for sale, buy it.

Ok good. So my valuing a long-time seller owner is on point. If you don't mind a couple questions?

1) I suspect a stretch but is there a way here to enter a VIN to be notified in case it shows up in a post?

2) In the driver category, what level of importance is it for original body panels vs. replacement? Again, driver category. Or, if known to be aftermarket, what other flags should the buyer look at for potential underlying issue down the road or resale value?

Thanks again!

 

[68BabyBlue]

Ok good. So my valuing a long-time seller owner is on point. If you don't mind a couple questions?

1) I suspect a stretch but is there a way here to enter a VIN to be notified in case it shows up in a post?

2) In the driver category, what level of importance is it for original body panels vs. replacement? Again, driver category. Or, if known to be aftermarket, what other flags should the buyer look at for potential underlying issue down the road or resale value?

Thanks again!

1) I would just keep a list. I'm a freak who memorized all the VINs of GTXs I was interested in. Saved wasted time when the one I rejected in 2015 came back on the market several years later.

2) This can be subjective. Baby Blue had an OEM replacement on the passenger side, original on the driver side. When I sold the car both times, buyer didn't care. My restored A33 car had AMD replacement quarters on both sides, they were actually smoother, and better fitted than the factory originals on my three unrestored cars. Playing devil's advocate, the welding probably wasn't as good as factory, and the car had some issues with trunk lid fitment, fair amount of shaking and rattling when driven. Close friend who has driven my last four cars said the A33 was the prettiest, but sucked to drive. I agreed, and happily replaced it after five years of ownership. The last two I've owned, one had reproduction panels, current one has OEM installed in 1981. Both drove as new, welding quality was excellent in both. In a driver level car that's what I'd consider most important, and of course requires a personal inspection to verify. If a driver quality car has original quarters, you have a high risk of unresolved rust issues, but again, a personal inspection may prove otherwise.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Thanks again!

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Welcome from State College! My dad's first Mopar was a '52 Dodge. I've aged a bit since that picture was taken. Owned seven GTXs since then, contact me if you want a second set of eyes on an inspection.

View attachment 1712939

Welcome from State College! My dad's first Mopar was a '52 Dodge. I've aged a bit since that picture was taken. Owned seven GTXs since then, contact me if you want a second set of eyes on an inspection.

View attachment 1712939

Somehow I missed this reply. The ‘52 is awesome. Both parents are now gone and I recently combed through a mountain of pictures, many in same B&W! Some lineage ones actually pegged to late 1800s. But didn’t find any of me and pops and the ‘51. But there was one of my baby sister. That one has to be over 50 years ago now.

Dude, looks like you’re doggin’ it there while dad is polishing his heart out! But like you said that was a few back. lol

And Ty for the generous offer for a 2nd pair of eyes on an inspection. Very much appreciated. I may very well take you up on the offer!

Btw, I would suspect members here who have deep experience/love of the same model like yourself would also be fairly open to being an info resource on their specific model? At this stage I’m in the pairing down process. I’d like to get to down to 2, or 3 tops, to dive more deeply in active buy mode. What do you think?

 

[68BabyBlue]

Somehow I missed this reply. The ‘52 is awesome. Both parents are now gone and I recently combed through a mountain of pictures, many in same B&W! Some lineage ones actually pegged to late 1800s. But didn’t find any of me and pops and the ‘51. But there was one of my baby sister. That one has to be over 50 years ago now.

Dude, looks like you’re doggin’ it there while dad is polishing his heart out! But like you said that was a few back. lol

And Ty for the generous offer for a 2nd pair of eyes on an inspection. Very much appreciated. I may very well take you up on the offer!

Btw, I would suspect members here who have deep experience/love of the same model like yourself would also be fairly open to being an info resource on their specific model? At this stage I’m in the pairing down process. I’d like to get to down to 2, or 3 tops, to dive more deeply in active buy mode. What do you think?

This forum is an amazing source of information from folks who have been around these vehicles since they were new. Different perspectives available from mechanics, engineers, body specialists, and document freaks. Sounds like you are keen on leaning from the experience of others, it should serve you well.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Welcome! You will find the right car and the people here can help you on that journey.

Hey. Be glad to say no, but I see you’re owner of multiple Chargers. They may be generally outside my budget but would be cool if I come back if I need some specific Charger advice?