Battery Posts - Any Available with Both Top & Side?

[Nacho-RT74]

If you are not using the ammeter anymore and the path between alt and batt is nicelly done, then there is not a problem with that.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Once again suppositions on your part. How did you reach the conclusion about the ammeter not reading anything from the EFI system until you know specifics about the total system? Generalities are meaningless unless substantive. FYI.....you need to review the fundamentals of Kirchoffs voltage and current nodal analysis before making statements that deal with nothing. PM me if you need or want further information and explanation on Kirchoffs laws.
BOB RENTON

whatever it says the Kirschoffs laws ( laws that I have read ) I'm just interpreting what my ammeter reads when conecting any acc to one or the other side of the ammeter. After 15 years I think know what I read on the ammeter knowing also what could cause a damage on the system... or not

Is a fact that with an alt able to feed everything and conecting any acc to the alt side the ammeter won't move or will barelly flick. And if you connect it to the batt post the ammeter will read charge what, with a fully charged batt is of course not a real literal reading.

Is a fact too if you conect any acc to the alt side and alt doesn't have the power to source it, the amm will show discharge because the batt will be supplying that, total or partially.

I still don't get the deal on keep battling with me post after post about this after 10-15 years of observation on my own car and trying every combination posible, using several alternators and batteries setups, checking wiring upgrades and watching the heating or not on ammeter and contacts at bulkhead.

Then we have the theories and laws, nice, but what I just posted is undeniable.

 

[RJRENTON]

whatever it says the Kirschoffs laws ( laws that I have read ) I'm just interpreting what my ammeter reads when conecting any acc to one or the other side of the ammeter. After 15 years I think know what I read on the ammeter knowing also what could cause a damage on the system... or not

Is a fact that with an alt able to feed everything and conecting any acc to the alt side the ammeter won't move or will barelly flick. And if you connect it to the batt post the ammeter will read charge what, with a fully charged batt is of course not a real literal reading.

Is a fact too if you conect any acc to the alt side and alt doesn't have the power to source it, the amm will show discharge because the batt will be supplying that, total or partially.

I still don't get the deal on keep battling with me post after post about this after 10-15 years of observation on my own car and trying every combination posible, using several alternators and batteries setups, checking wiring upgrades and watching the heating or not on ammeter and contacts at bulkhead.

Then we have the theories and laws, nice, but what I just posted is undeniable.

UNDENIABLE.....in what regard? Say what is undeniable. You state "every combination possible".... then state the combinations, and your results. IF you have read Kirchoffs laws (all of them) and UNDERSTAND all of them, then you will realise what you state makes abdolutely no sense or has any bearing on electrical distribution systems. Remember, that the entire world does not relate to or is explainable by using your vehicle. If you want to discuss further, PM me.
BOB RENTON

 

[64fury74charger]

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I just can suggest one experiment for you and with this I think I'm done:
- Get a high load sucker device in hands, such as a heater-A/C blower which at full speed is able to suck around 10-12 amps. This is for a noticeable reading since a bulb could barelly move the ammeter.
- with engine off, feed it from batt post, check the ammeter. Then feed it from alt post, check the ammeter again.
- now make the same with engine running after the batt recovered the cranking load and ammeter got back to zero, if ever does because stock alts don't help on this. Mostly sure will need to get the carb fast iddle cam engaged to keep RPMs up, because if not the experiment won't work propperly due the unefficiency of the alt. THEN Check both amm readings again, with the blower on batt and the blower on alt.

Take your conclusions.

 

[RJRENTON]

I just can suggest one experiment for you and with this I think I'm done:
- Get a high load sucker device in hands, such as a heater-A/C blower which at full speed is able to suck around 10-12 amps. This is for a noticeable reading since a bulb could barelly move the ammeter.
- with engine off, feed it from batt post, check the ammeter. Then feed it from alt post, check the ammeter again.
- now make the same with engine running after the batt recovered the cranking load and ammeter got back to zero, if ever does because stock alts don't help on this. Mostly sure will need to get the carb fast iddle cam engaged to keep RPMs up, because if not the experiment won't work propperly due the unefficiency of the alt. THEN Check both amm readings again, with the blower on batt and the blower on alt.

Take your conclusions.

Once again suppositions.....based on ??? Your "experiment" proves nothing. "Unefficiency", which should read inefficiency of the alternator relates to the alternators conversion of generated AC (alternating current) by the stator and converted to DC (direct current) by the diodes, has nothing to do with the connected load or by the RPM the rotor is turning. Since the frequency of the AC being generated is a function of RPM, the faster the RPM, the higher the frequency generated which results in lower conversion loss, due to lower eddy current (magnetic) losses in the stator laminations and windings. Remember that total losses are combined core loss (magnetic losses eddy current loss) plus copper loss (resistance of the windings as heat - watts losses). You say nothing about the accuracy of the measuring device being used or scale of the measurements, which affect the overall loss calculation as well.
Show me your ACTUAL calculations based on actual observed/recorded numbers....not on your interpretation of what you think is happening. Review Kirchoffs Laws of voltage and current nodal calculations, it describes in real time, and apply these laws to your suppositions. I'm sure you will then understand what is actually occuring....not guesstimates.
BOB RENTON