that's what the video I shared addresses. Did you watch it?
Lithium Ion Size 24 underhood battery - XS Power (7lbs!!)
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That's why the LTO Li-ion battery looks like the right type at present for automotive application, while the Lithium polymer does not. If anyone else has good info to change my mind on the LTO type, I'm more than open to more reading/watching. I'm just gathering info and trying to educate us all.
It also appears that LTO type can be put out with a normal ABC fire extinguisher.
It also appears that LTO type can be put out with a normal ABC fire extinguisher.
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Well I decided to take the plunge on the XV2400 Lithium battery.
My son needed a new battery for his '65 Valiant and I really wanted to try this battery in my Doba -so the timing was right.
Of course it dropped right in--only change I made was installing a variable voltage VR (another recommendation from RE in Mopar Action)
We'll see how it holds up!
My son needed a new battery for his '65 Valiant and I really wanted to try this battery in my Doba -so the timing was right.
Of course it dropped right in--only change I made was installing a variable voltage VR (another recommendation from RE in Mopar Action)
We'll see how it holds up!
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How much did it cost?
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Losing weight in the right place is great too.
Thank you.
Thank you.
I bought one also, but haven't installed yet. I'm working on some other items first. One thing to note - I purchased mine from an online battery distributor with good reviews because I saw it was $50 cheaper. Only problem is this didn't include the battery terminals that bolt in. So going with Jeggs or similar for the full $499 up front including the terminals is the better bet.Battery was $499 from Jegs
VR was $16.49 from eBay
Losing 30+ pounds = Priceless!
For me, I've been running a group 27 AGM battery that weighs close to 60-lbs. This new Li-ion weighs around 7-lb so SIGNIFICANT weight reduction here.
For any of you who haven't watched the comparison video on the different types of Li-ion batteries up in post # 19, I encourage you to. It explains a lot and is what sold me.
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Actually I forgot-- I bought the bolt on terminals separately.
The battery didn't come with them included -- got mine on Amazon for $19.99
I got the VR too. Haven't installed it yet Got to do a upgrade to the 63.
Awesome info on the Lithiums, I run them in my Toy Hauler, (LifePo)...Planning to pick up the 2400 from Jegs for the 63', curious if the VR you picked up of EBAY that was recommended is worth the squeeze or? Battery should be plug/play but wanted to know if I'm missing something?
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Once I got the battery and included instructions they recommend not charging over 14.5 volts -- I had checked 2 factory VRs on my Cordoba and they would charge up to 15 volts on cold start!
I would recommend getting the variable voltage regulator because of this -- these batteries are very voltage sensitive.
Been running mine for about 10 days now-- no problems-- adjusted mine for 13.9 volts-- has not gone over 14 volts and with all lights on (interior and exterior) reads about 13.5 volts
Here is the included instruction sheet
The 13.9V to 14.0V recommended charging for our cars is nothing new and not dependent only on using this battery. From my past learning and current experience, any of us running an aftermarket alternator putting out more than what Chrysler offered stock (i.e. Powermaster - I'm running their 70A 3 wire alternator) needs this adjustable voltage regulator (unless your alternator is internally regulated).
Case in point - I didn't know this around 5 years ago. I upgraded to the 70A Powermaster and within several months 2 of my dash gauges were no longer working (rebuilt non-rally fuel gauge suddenly reading way off as well as coolant temp gauge). It turns out it was due to this very reason. I had read about these potentiostat adjustable VR's in Mopar Action years ago and once I swapped that in and set if for 13.9V, no more issues.
Case in point - I didn't know this around 5 years ago. I upgraded to the 70A Powermaster and within several months 2 of my dash gauges were no longer working (rebuilt non-rally fuel gauge suddenly reading way off as well as coolant temp gauge). It turns out it was due to this very reason. I had read about these potentiostat adjustable VR's in Mopar Action years ago and once I swapped that in and set if for 13.9V, no more issues.
The other thing to note on these Li-ion size 24 batteries is use of a battery charger when in long term storage. They recommend do not use a standard flooded cell battery charger because of the overcharge issue. There are chargers specific to these Li-ion that are available. I still need to buy one.
The ONLY thing I'm still a bit not sure on is the 140F max exposure temp. Has anyone measured underhood temps at idle with the hood closed? It's gotta be over 140F. Rick E from Mopar Action says these are safe though, but I'd love to see him do a writeup on the 3 main different Li-ion types like they show in the video I posted earlier in this thread.
The ONLY thing I'm still a bit not sure on is the 140F max exposure temp. Has anyone measured underhood temps at idle with the hood closed? It's gotta be over 140F. Rick E from Mopar Action says these are safe though, but I'd love to see him do a writeup on the 3 main different Li-ion types like they show in the video I posted earlier in this thread.
great info...I need to dig in on what the current setup is and make sure I get the proper VR for it, up on jacks right now, I'll post some pics after new wheels/tires come in, and yes on the long term storage, I use battery tenders for all the toys (Toy Hauler, RZR), not all tenders are universal, need to ensure you get a "smart" tender or one specific to your battery type.
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I have checked my under hood temps and so far have only seen about 120 F at the battery--granted it's not the middle of summer but we have had mid 80s
Got a few of these Bluetooth temp/humidity sensors and placed them in various spots under the hood-- so easy being wireless now.
Here's a screenshot -
That’s awesome! Thanks. Would love to see battery temp after extended idle and after engine shut off heat soak for fuel up.
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I have had a 12v Li-ion battery in my 2011 Harley-Davidson V-Rod for over 8 years, and in the 2006 Harley-Davidson V-Rod my wife rides. I wouldn't have it any other way, but it hasn't been without a few problems, mostly due to me being unfamiliar with the technology and how that manifests itself in maintenance and performance expectations.
The battery is extremely lightweight, almost like it's just a shell of a battery "for display purposes only"...Since the battery is located above the horizontal top frame, by the neck of the fork assembly, at the front of the air box (where most MC have the gas tank) having way less weight there (high) really improves handling.
Having said that, I will focus on the battery tech as it would apply to a car.
The fractional weight compared to an AGM or lead/acid battery is significant. If removing weight in general is a factor, this is definitely a leap in that direction. If you trunk locate the battery, don't expect any additional traction with the L-ion.
I would be concerned about any heat restrictions, especially under the hood or in a trunk that gets hot. You MUST determine this from the manufacturer and prevent exceeding the limit.
Buying a charger that is SPECIFICALLY for this kind of battery is a MUST. Again, check with the manufacturer and get whatever they recommend, no questions, just do it. Expect the initial cost of the battery and charger to be significant, but I think it's worthwhile, certainly for the motorcycles.
The battery I have IS subject to lose cranking power when it is cold. If you have a way to keep it from getting too cold, do it. If you're in a very cold climate and if it's cold for many months, you will have to prevent it from being cold. Again, ask the manufacturer for advice on this if your car isn't in a temperature controlled environment. They can be charged regardless of the charge level without any "memory" issues, but you shouldn't let them run down all the way or it may have to be replaced.
I'm not sure that all of that is worth the trouble for a car, but where weight is a problem, this is a good solution. Also, when properly maintained, I would expect much longer service from a L-ion than AGM or lead/acid.
The battery is extremely lightweight, almost like it's just a shell of a battery "for display purposes only"...Since the battery is located above the horizontal top frame, by the neck of the fork assembly, at the front of the air box (where most MC have the gas tank) having way less weight there (high) really improves handling.
Having said that, I will focus on the battery tech as it would apply to a car.
The fractional weight compared to an AGM or lead/acid battery is significant. If removing weight in general is a factor, this is definitely a leap in that direction. If you trunk locate the battery, don't expect any additional traction with the L-ion.
I would be concerned about any heat restrictions, especially under the hood or in a trunk that gets hot. You MUST determine this from the manufacturer and prevent exceeding the limit.
Buying a charger that is SPECIFICALLY for this kind of battery is a MUST. Again, check with the manufacturer and get whatever they recommend, no questions, just do it. Expect the initial cost of the battery and charger to be significant, but I think it's worthwhile, certainly for the motorcycles.
The battery I have IS subject to lose cranking power when it is cold. If you have a way to keep it from getting too cold, do it. If you're in a very cold climate and if it's cold for many months, you will have to prevent it from being cold. Again, ask the manufacturer for advice on this if your car isn't in a temperature controlled environment. They can be charged regardless of the charge level without any "memory" issues, but you shouldn't let them run down all the way or it may have to be replaced.
I'm not sure that all of that is worth the trouble for a car, but where weight is a problem, this is a good solution. Also, when properly maintained, I would expect much longer service from a L-ion than AGM or lead/acid.
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