BB camshaft recommendation

[wyrmrider]

FAST type builds great idea
1.6 roller tips???
go to the B3 website and read all 4 tech articles
http://www.b3racingengines.com/techcorner.asp
7/16 pushrods and spend some time clearencing

 

[biomedtechguy]

I think you need to pick the brains of someone who works with FAST type builds. You’re paying for the R&D they have already done on strokers with manifolds.

I FULLY AGREE! They are the perfect source for a built engine w/factory exhaust manifolds.
I edited out the "never 509" part, just because I like the 509 too much to say anything like "never". It was in my car when I bought it, WITH stock HP manifolds, so somebody thought it was a good choice, and that SOUND is admittedly a big part of why I bought the car. I'm glad I have TTi headers now though, w/Doug's Cutouts...REALLY let's that cam be heard!

 

[Challenger340]

With HP manifolds we had good success using the Comp Cams XS282S Flat Tappet Solid simply widened to a 112 lsa.... usually on 451's using Ported Stealth's @ similar 300 cfm/.600"
Still Dyno'd 530-540 hp and 575 Ft/Lbs on 451's with twin snorkel Air Cleaner installed and 2 1/2" pipes bolted to the hp Manifolds
No point trying for the 1.6 Rockers as the Heads can NOT utilize the extra Flow/Lift through the HP manifolds(just can't get it OUT at higher rpm's so NO point).... the .520/.540" Lift the 1.5 Rocker provide is plenty for the targeted HP making the 5/16" pushrods an easy fit on the Stealth's

 

[biomedtechguy]

I think switching to headers was worth 30-40 horsepower on a "bolt on mods" build.
IOW a 383 or 440 putting out maybe 100-120 HP over stock, and 30-40 of that was headers!

 

[1968rt]

The mopar .528 one of the best with manifolds. Andys article http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/550hp.html

 

[sneezi]

All great info guys, thank you.
I have to agree the Mopar 528 grind is great with HP manifolds which is in my 69 charger now.
That engine combo is a standard stroke 440
Stealth heads unported
10.4 comp
1.6 rocker
6 pack induction
Has run 12.1@112mph
So with the extra cubes, port work, 11:1 comp and possibly the FiTech 6 pack, my cam specs now would need to still based off the 528 with slight changes.
I agree earlier with curiousyellow71 the lobe separation will need to be 114

 

[biomedtechguy]

possibly the FiTech 6 pack

If I wouldn't have just sent my 3 Holley 2bbl carbs to Promax for all of the parts they offer (except the fuel bowls) to be installed, and have all 3 disassembled in the process, checked, and repaired a diaphragm screw hole in the accelerator pump clamshell, and "pre-tuned" on their dyno mule...with the upper and lower stainless steel braided fuel lines, parts and labor appx $1,400...I would probably have gotten the FiTech 3x2 system!
It's VERY nice for the price!
Now I am not interested in it because of the stated "600 horsepower" ceiling.
If I ever go EFI, it will be the F&B 3x2 EFI direct port injection system, which is capable of up to 2,400 CFM.
If a 600 HP "limit" is ok w/you, I would strongly recommend the FiTech 3x2 system!

 

[sneezi]

I have the pro max carbs on the 440 but yes I really want the FiTech this time around.
I don't think I will make 600hp so I'm fine..
Love the F&B 6 pack but pricey for what I'm building.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I have the pro max carbs on the 440 but yes I really want the FiTech this time around.
I don't think I will make 600hp so I'm fine..
Love the F&B 6 pack but pricey for what I'm building.

All good!
I've held the FiTech 3x2 system in my hands, and it looks and feels well made!
Norm at Affordable Fuel Injection is the only guy I would deal with on the FiTech 3x2 system!
PM me if you want his phone number and email address!

 

[BSB67]

All great info guys, thank you.
I have to agree the Mopar 528 grind is great with HP manifolds which is in my 69 charger now.
That engine combo is a standard stroke 440
Stealth heads unported
10.4 comp
1.6 rocker
6 pack induction
Has run 12.1@112mph
So with the extra cubes, port work, 11:1 comp and possibly the FiTech 6 pack, my cam specs now would need to still based off the 528 with slight changes.
I agree earlier with curiousyellow71 the lobe separation will need to be 114

What's your 60 ft? About 1.7 ish? Race weight 4000lb? If so, with your new motor and the right cam, you should be able to go 11.3 @ 120+ with the 6 pack you have now.

What's your goal?

 

[sneezi]

Wow!!!!! I would be over the moon if it pushed the car to 11.30s @ 120mph
Yes right on 4000 pounds and 1.78 60 footers.

 

[BSB67]

Wow!!!!! I would be over the moon if it pushed the car to 11.30s @ 120mph
Yes right on 4000 pounds and 1.78 60 footers.

That would be in good air, as track DA matters, and the cam will be pretty aggressive too. But in good air you should be able to get close to those numbers. If your 60 ft doesn't get any better than the 1.78, probably 11.45.

 

[sneezi]

What would you be suggesting for cam specs?

 

[BSB67]

You mean other than post #15?

 

[wyrmrider]

let's forget LCA
too many ways to measure
max lift
or
down some number from max lift which at .050 can not account of 20 degrees on the open and 30 degrees on the close side (fast open slow close)
or center of opening and closing timing- which is what you want to work from
so measure the 528 at .004 and .006 and .050 cam doc or other would help here
and see if the centerlines align (lotsa luck)
you can't use the MP timing numbers because you do not know at what height they are
(and Mopar gets timing off the blueprinting not from mesasureing anything
this would work for hyd and hyd roller
for solid cams you have to take lash out of the problem
or
work from valve lift
which is what counts no matter what kind of cam you are working with
cheers
you must make changes from seat timing- centerlines is just a guess

 

[Curiousyellow71]

If I am remembering right...Mopar performance says..."don't compare our cam ratings to other brands...only compare ratings of Mp cams to Mp cams." I wish we would've taken time 2 measure the timing events when we ran MP cams...back in the day. Comparing MP cams to other brands always left me questioning/not trusting the MP ratings. Just like Wyrmrider said...the only way to compare or know the specs on a MP cam is to get the dial indicator and a degree wheel out and measure. Their aftermarket cam ratings at .050 are rated by multiplying adv. Duration x .85
OEM cams. Adv. Duration x .77
So a .050 number is 85% of a advertised number?

About 25 years ago I learned about their method for figuring .050.
And it made me go...huh

 

[wyrmrider]

Huh you got that right
mp has had many camgrinders I do not think that formula is accurate for any of them
the adv duration and timing is consistant but not convertible to aftermarket grinders
and i do not trust the late comp cams mopar performance cams to be comparable to the older lines

you gotta remember that many camgrinders advertised durations are fudged shorter to make the cam look more radical
one way is to use a low clearance ramp so the lifter is moving up quicker by the time it gets to .006

 

[wyrmrider]

so does your camgrinder have any .904 mopar solid masters?
ultradyne, lunati, bullett, mopar performance, engle
street profiles not race only stuff