BB Engine question

[ChargingNemo]

Hey guys, I have a 383 big block naturally aspirated and carbureted (4 barrel) engine. I saw there were kits for Chevy, etc. that allowed for a more modern engine head to be used with the classic bottom end to still have that torque. Is there such a thing for Mopar engines or no? Would I have to go to a small block to take advantage of something like that? (the kits I saw were for a small block Chevy)

 

[ckessel]

Try Hughes Engines.
hughesengines.com

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Cylinder Heads & Components-store.440source.com

 

[69conv]

I did the 440 source on my 400, basically same block as your 383. Everything fits and bolts up like original but better flow and chamber shape as well as saving a bunch of weight. They are called stealth heads cause if you paint them the look original. You also get the hardened valve seats.

 

[Geoff 2]

How much $$$$$$$$ ya got to spend????????????
I would NOT buy aftermarket heads & keep the engine size at 383. You will be disappointed for the money spent.
Best bang for the buck: buy the 440 crank update kit.

 

[Some Car Guy]

Lots of choice to do upgraded heads on a mopar. Like Geoff said, how much you wanna spend?

I take it you are wanting something like a g3 hemi head given the way the question was asked. I assume that means you saw a way to install ls heads on an old school Chevy. I don’t know of a way to do that on a mopar big block.

The small blocks had the magnum heads after a certain year. I don’t know that they would be better than an of the aftermarket heads though.

The aftermarket big block heads have better chambers than the originals. I don’t see why any of the choices would not accomplish what you are wanting. You can go pretty cheap and mild with the stealth heads, or go wild with the trickflow 270s.

Porter Racing Heads in VT is a great place to start as he can do all this stuff and isn’t locked into a certain brand. He also knows what is needed OOTB to set the heads up the right way. You can run stuff OOTB, but things like tight guides can be an issue, etc.

 

[ChargingNemo]

Thanks all for your replies. The reason I am asking is because I am wanting to go to an AWD driveline setup (most likely using one from a newer charger) and am debating with keeping the engine or going ahead and switching it over to the 5.7 hemi as part of the driveline swap. I like the torque of the classic bottom end but I am not sure if it will do what I want it to do. Am also looking to twin charge the engine as well with turbos feeding into a supercharger (idea is to leverage the supercharger to make up for the turbo lag on low end rpm). AND if at all possible to keep it all under the hood....a big ask probably but I like the look of the hood as is too much not to at least try.

 

[ckessel]

Time for some investigating and picking a specific avenue for your project. There is nothing swappable between what you have and the 3rd gen Hemi. The AWD you're aspiring for is not an easy task.
Not a typical 68 Charger

 

[RemCharger]

!!

 

[ckessel]

Some other input to think about. What are your skill levels? Can you do your own wrenching or do you have to farm out? If you have to farm out, how deep are your pockets? People with skills don't work for free. Is your ride a legit numbers matching one or is it a generic model with add ons?
If your car is a legit one, you would be well advised to get ahold of one of its generic models if you plan on doing a bunch of modifications that will be hard, or impossible, to reverse thereby killing the value of the car you have. Like the Bowtie enthusiast that HAS TO HAVE a 69 Z28 Camaro, numbers matching blah blah blah, just to cut it up and make it pro street/pro touring when they could have gotten a generic model to work with.

 

[ChargingNemo]

Some other input to think about. What are your skill levels? Can you do your own wrenching or do you have to farm out? If you have to farm out, how deep are your pockets? People with skills don't work for free. Is your ride a legit numbers matching one or is it a generic model with add ons?
If your car is a legit one, you would be well advised to get ahold of one of its generic models if you plan on doing a bunch of modifications that will be hard, or impossible, to reverse thereby killing the value of the car you have. Like the Bowtie enthusiast that HAS TO HAVE a 69 Z28 Camaro, numbers matching blah blah blah, just to cut it up and make it pro street/pro touring when they could have gotten a generic model to work with.

I’d be looking to do as much of it myself as I can. My car is not numbers matching so far as I am aware and I don’t have a build sheet or fender tag for it either. So is a generic one. Pretty much came that way when I bought it. I have already done some work to it as well in getting it fixed up.

 

[ckessel]

Cool. Going DIY as much as possible builds skills and saves dough. If you get into a tough spot, do you have any friends/aquaintances to swap skills with, buy pizza etc?

 

[Some Car Guy]

Taking a swing at it is the way other people built their skills so might as well have at it. Some of cars can be taught, but a lot of it is just hands on experience.

 

[ChargingNemo]

Time for some investigating and picking a specific avenue for your project. There is nothing swappable between what you have and the 3rd gen Hemi. The AWD you're aspiring for is not an easy task.
Not a typical 68 Charger

Would the classic engine bolt up to the newer transmission from the gen 3 driveline or would it need adapter plates, etc?

 

[ChargingNemo]

Cool. Going DIY as much as possible builds skills and saves dough. If you get into a tough spot, do you have any friends/aquaintances to swap skills with, buy pizza etc?

I think I may have a few which will help.

 

[RemCharger]

Would the classic engine bolt up to the newer transmission from the gen 3 driveline or would it need adapter plates, etc?

A smallblock and the new hemi share the same bellhousing pattern.

 

[ckessel]

Small block yes, big no. B/RB, Gen2 Hemi will require some sort of adaptation. No clue if someone makes an adaptor etc to put the NAG1 or 8HP80/90 behind the big. Then you would need to deal with the converter, electronics to control it, its physical mass. Our stuff, unlike Chebby, has a different trans bell pattern for /6, small block, big block. If you go manual trans, it gets easier.

 

[Cranky]

How much $$$$$$$$ ya got to spend????????????
I would NOT buy aftermarket heads & keep the engine size at 383. You will be disappointed for the money spent.
Best bang for the buck: buy the 440 crank update kit.

Thing is, a 383 can spool more rpm than a 440 and they do respond well to bigger valved heads although the cam that's picked for that combo is important for lower rpm use like in town. However, my choice would be a 400 engine since the bore is bigger than the 440 and will respond better to the bigger valve sizes of the aftermarket heads. If you are disappointed with how a 383 runs after installing bigger heads, you're doing something wrong....

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Try Hughes Engines.
hughesengines.com

Stay away from Hughes. Their better days are behind them.

If you want to retain a more stock looking head upgrade go with the 440 Source heads. If you want a better flowing head Edelbrock Performer RPM would be my choice.

You'll have to be careful on a 383 with the smaller bore size using some of the heads using larger valve diameters.

If you really want power buy a stroker kit from me and go with 450 cubic inches. That extra 67 cubic will really wake the car up.

Tom