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Bellhousing runout question

Thanks for being patient and nice about it.
It's no problem - this is a forum where things come up that are off topic, but that's what community is all about! I'd love to go with EFI eventually, but I'm in "get it on the road" mode and had already purchased and installed a new gas tank. Maybe next year.

I received a response from RobbMc and they also suggested using green locktite. I picked some up the other day and will be able to start on assembling the clutch. I'm quickly regretting going with OEM shift linkage, since I was planning to run headers and I've heard horror stories, but I'll make it work. A hydraulic clutch isn't in the budget (any more). I'll hopefully have some progress pictures tonight.
 
Green locktite - I thought I knew most of the colors - purple, blue, red, orange but green was a new one on me and had to look it up.

Good luck.
 
I guess I should be clear 640 green locktite is for cylindrical bonding, I guess there are other greens.
 
green was a new one on me and had to look it up.
X2
"Liquid sleeve retainer, or bearing mount, strengthens the fit between non-threaded, smooth, cylindrical assemblies that rely on tight clearances and friction to maintain the connection. Designed for high-temperature and close-fit applications.
Features:

  • Creates a tighter fit and prevents slippage when applied to non-threaded, smooth assemblies
  • Withstands higher temperatures than other bearing mounts - up to 400 F
  • Designed for tight clearances
  • Prevents treated parts from corroding
  • Requires heat and, for the tightest fits, a press or puller to disassemble
  • Made in the USA"
 
Now that I have the clutch installed, I'm cleaning up the transmission, going to paint it cast iron grey, and promptly broke one of the tabs on the reverse switch. Yet another trip to the parts store.

Since I'm using a bearing instead of a bushing, should I put any grease on the end of the input shaft, or any grease in addition to the grease already packed into the bearing? Dodge assembly manual says to keep the input shaft dry, but it predates the use of a bearing. I know to keep the grease, if any, to a minimum, to keep it from getting on the splines or the clutch. Or keep the input shaft dry and just rely on the pre-packed bearing grease?
 
Finally...some one installing a bellhouse the correct way.
Everyone pay attention now.
Make sure both mating surfaces are super clean with no paint etc
Install every bolt and torque to spec. Be sure the threads have assy lube on them.
I use studs not bolts. Much better results.
Be sure the BH is repeating the runout deviation by removing and reinstalling it at least 3x. Repeats the measurement to the number within +/- 0.0005 inches. 0.000000 is better.
Install whatever offset dowls the calculation calls for
Repeat measurement
Make 12 o'clock the zero position
Then make your diagram. That will show the axis of alignment of the BH so you can align the dowels with that line
If you don't like your new measurements you can move the clocking a bit to see if it improves
You need to be CLOSE to zero as possible as it affects overall performance, wear, noise, shifting esp going into 1st when rolling up to a stop. 0.005 is a lot in my world of 4 speed
0.0025 max, 0.00050 is best

The back of the bh needs to be checked for squareness to the center-line of the crank. This is important. 0.0000 is the spec. The amount of torque on the 2 lower large diameter studs or bolts does affect the squareness. Some times the bh needs shimmed at those bolts/studs to make it square.

Be sure the transmission bolts to the bh before you install it in the car.
Use the roller pilot bearing.
Do not drive without the metal bottom cover installed correctly.
Advice is only useful when you follow it
I am about to do the Tremec magnum 6 speed kit and it requires you do this for the warranty, hopefully mine isnt out as bad as his.
 
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