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best cam for a 340

polywideblock

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I want to replace my unknown cam in my 340 , after a bit of a rumps but nothing to radical .
car runs 158 in 7 and 160 in 8, if the helps . Hydraulic lifter reliability would be good .
I have a 268 com cam in the 440
 
Give Muscle Motors a call. I have been thrilled with the cam he ground for my street 512. He does small block too. I will be using him again once we get dads 68 barracuda back from paint jail.
 
what about this one ,car is a 4 speed
Plymouth Mopar Dodge 318 340 360 Ultimate Cam Kit - Street/strip 231/231 at 050"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-M...143325?hash=item5187780f1d:g:MKEAAOSw5VtZ6Ks4
s-l1600.jpg

or this one
340/360 WHIPLASH PREMIUM CAM KIT
SB-Whiplash-Premium-Kit-(we.jpg
 
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I want to replace my unknown cam in my 340 , after a bit of a rumps but nothing to radical .
car runs 158 in 7 and 160 in 8, if the helps . Hydraulic lifter reliability would be good .
I don’t understand “runs 158 in 7 & 160 in 8.

In order to even guess if this is a decent idea for you, what do you run at the track and how much do you want to drop the ET.?

You want it with a bit of rump meaning a rumpity idle?
I would have to know a lot about your current engine, converter stall and trans, rear gears and tires, cars weight, expected expectations, P/B?
Cruise rpm?
etc...

Post number 2, good idea. However, you ask them today, I’d bet 4 out of 5 in my favor you’ll get a different guy with a different cam recommendation never mind the other companies out there with a tech line, each time you call.
 
what about this one ,car is a 4 speed
Plymouth Mopar Dodge 318 340 360 Ultimate Cam Kit - Street/strip 231/231 at 050"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-M...143325?hash=item5187780f1d:g:MKEAAOSw5VtZ6Ks4
View attachment 646470
or this one
340/360 WHIPLASH PREMIUM CAM KIT
View attachment 646471
Personally for myself, I would not use ether kit.
The Hughes kit is as the say designed for low compression engines.

The e-bay kit doesn’t give me enough information to make a informed decision. But there is enough there in the cam to make a call and that is no thank you. It will perform OK. But not as per your first request of a rumpity idle.

In order to get “That idle sound” may not have you to happy with the response and reaction of the engine at low speeds or until the power band in rpm’s come in.

In general, a 110 centerline on a cam has that typical muscle car idle. A 108 centerline has a rough idle. On a 106, it sounds like a race car.
But as I said, this a general description and the way the cam is ground, the idle can be smoother or tougher than the above description is layed out.

A rougher idle becomes more difficult to tune the carb and not just at idle. Once your going down the road, the carb operates better and smoother since the air is moving through it quickly.
 
114 centerline, stock ‘78 B block 400 P code w/ hedman headers, 2-1/2 inch exhaust into Hooker Aero Chambers, Flow Master tailpipes also 2-1/2 inches. Chrome box ignition.
 
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112 centerline, cold engine. ‘79, 318, stock long block with a Edelbrock LD4B, Holley 1460, Hooker Headers into a Jegs 2-1/2 exhaust kit, Orange box ignition, Crane cam.
 
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I don’t understand “runs 158 in 7 & 160 in 8.
(psi) when it got a tune-up and had a leak down test
 
No magic bullet cams. "Best cam" is a loaded question. As many answers as there are people in the hobby. Your best bet is to contact a cam company (like Hughes) and ask them. Have all your car specs handy. (all engine and drive train specs including rear gear and rear tire diameter.)
 

I don’t understand “runs 158 in 7 & 160 in 8.
(psi) when it got a tune-up and had a leak down test
Click to expand...
So your super charged or turboed?
give my a break I've had a "stroke" ( 2 x ) and have a limited "vocables" . you now what I mean :thumbsup:
 

I don’t understand “runs 158 in 7 & 160 in 8.
(psi) when it got a tune-up and had a leak down test
Click to expand...
So your super charged or turboed?
give my a break I've had a "stroke" ( 2 x ) and have a limited "vocables" . you now what I mean :thumbsup:
Hey my man, I didn’t know you had a stroke so best of luck and future health to you. So please don’t badger me with “Give me a break “ when I don’t know anything about you or anybody here. I’m not interested in anyone’s anything outside of just simply cars.

I’m tryin to help and I’m not understanding. Do so type your responses outside of the quote tags for easier reading. Your limited vocabulary is furtherly diminished by bad spelling. Adjust your setting for a spell check program. You would not be alone in it’s use. I use it and I’m not proud that I have to but since it helps me and everyone else out there to read correctly spelled words in coherent sentences...... I’m trying to give you the benefit of the doubt despite poor diction and punctuation.

I’m asking you serious questions to get the best understanding of the thread. I’m not here to bust your balls. 1967coronet440 tag me to come and give a hand. So I responded with 5 posts trying to help and for clarification on YOUR issue.

So, are we gonna get it done?
Help me help you.
I’m ready to rock! Let’s go!

My question to you is were any of my posts helpful?
Do you know or have you tried to run this car at the track for a slip?
Can you tell me about your 340 and what is stock and what is not?
Is it possible to get a video/sound clip of your car at idle?

Come on buddy, let’s rock this!
 
ye you have helped :thumbsup:
no nothing about the motor apart from it ran really good and is a 340/ 4 speed ,it had a lumpy cam but not to bad it idled nice ( its how it arrived in Australia ) . till it done the "lifter/cam" ,I know at least one of the lobes is shot ?. its getting to the stage where its motor and trans time so I'm looking for bits. and as started when the did test it as a 157 for 7 cylinders and 160 x1 cylinders , so everything seems right for compressing
I've in the process of finding a new cam prefer a compete kit like I've show, and in Australia so it got to be affordable including a **** load for postage ha ha
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh, I see... hummm
Having a 340/4spd myself, it is nice because of the manual trans. A manual trans will tolerate a bigger cam over a automatic transmission better.

So, um, the engine is all stock then?
Do you know your gear ratio, wheel & tire size?
 
yes I think it was stock apart from a cam change and a Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifold with a 670 Holley
3:23, 15x 8 on the back with T/A 275 on it
 
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yes I think it was stock apart from a cam change and a Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifold with a 670 Holley
3:23, 15x 8 on the back with T/A 275 on it
Whoa! 3.23’s and 275’s! Yikes that must have a good top end charge! Does the car seem to be a bit slow out of the hole? (From a dead stop)

another one
reputable company
Comp Cams K20-214-4 Magnum™ 270H Hydraulic Cam Kit Dodge Chrysler 273-360
View attachment 647011

That is a bit out of the range, just a tad. It is workable with the 4spd. The beginning rpm range is 1800. It is not going to be great off the line with those tall tires and 3.23’s.

I would ether reduce the tire size or reduce the cam size. Tire size would be a max of 245/60/15. That would be about 26-3/4-ish inch area. Or drop the cam down to an intake duration @.050 of 218-220.

The 110 centerline will have a good rhythm.
I’ll take a look around for other choices worth considering.
 
This one from Comp Cams;
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=626&sb=2
An exhaust manifold designed cam from Comp, this one has a higher rpm range, 2000-6000. It may require a bit of foot to clutch finesse. But I believe you understand and can handle that easy enough.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=636&sb=2
This one from Lunati, slightly smaller than the first cam listed;
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2341&gid=287
Maximum duration and lift from Lunati;
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2342&gid=287

I can not say if the valve springs are a quick swap in and go on any of the choices.
I like the first choice best for your tie and gear combo.
 
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