Best heads for a 440 Budget

[thebankerstoy]

A good set up for a mild street build like I think that this member is looking for, that also won't break the bank would be a set of the original cast iron 452 castings that have the hardened valve seats that will handle the crappy pump gas that we get these days. Put a good 3 angle valve job on them and a set of the standard sized Mopar Performance intake and exhaust valves, along with a set of the Mopar Performance Hemi valve springs, along with a new set of keepers and related hardware. A new set of good qualityvalve seals are also needed. A new set of chrome rocker shafts and a set of the Mopar Performance stamped steel Six-Pack rocker arms will be good to go to 6500 rmp range. I would also replace all of the attaching hardware.

As far as head porting goes, once again, it sounds like this will be a pretty mild build, so I wouldn't do anything other than to match the intake and exhaust ports to the gaskets.

Nothing fancy, but a set of heads like these will be perfect on this style build and won't break the bank either.

Richard

 

[Meep-Meep]

500 RWHP sounds to me like a pretty radical engine - well beyond the 270 deg hydraulic cam stuff.

 

[thebankerstoy]

500 RWHP sounds to me like a pretty radical engine - well beyond the 270 deg hydraulic cam stuff.

He says that his GOAL is 500 RWHP, but he also say's that "it's just going to be a street toy" and that he is currently running a Purpleshaft cam that he isn't sure of what the specs are. He also asks about the best flowing stock style heads to keep his cost down, so maybe we need to get a clearer idea of what he's really looking for and what he's really intending on spending. A 500 horse engine on the street is pretty over kill in my humble opinion, as to make an engine of that caliber work in a street car, he's going to be spending a bunch more of his hard earned money to up-grade the rest of his ride. I know that the set-up I suggested is good up to a Mopar Performance 509 hydraulic camshaft and will turn at least 6500 rpm's, because I've run this combo personally and have had no problems with it. In fact, I'm running this set-up in the 440 in my 1966 Coronet with the MP .284 - .484 hydraulic camshaft. While my 440 is only putting out around 375 to 400 hp, it has been drag raced hard from 1991 to 1998 and is still running like it did when it was new. Admittedly, it doesn't see many miles each year, but it IS driven hard and is not a trailer queen by any means. Just saying.......

Richard

 

[madmike9396]

thanks for the info guys, The motor is brand new thats in the car, My dad rebuilt it probaly 8 years ago and never ran it, Just sit in the building, ive only ran it a total of 30 min maybe, The cam cuts up good but i wish i knew the specs on it. im also thinking of running Nitrous on it also, is anyone else spraying there 440 ?

 

[Meep-Meep]

He says that his GOAL is 500 RWHP, but he also say's that "it's just going to be a street toy" and that he is currently running a Purpleshaft cam that he isn't sure of what the specs are. He also asks about the best flowing stock style heads to keep his cost down, so maybe we need to get a clearer idea of what he's really looking for and what he's really intending on spending. A 500 horse engine on the street is pretty over kill in my humble opinion, as to make an engine of that caliber work in a street car, he's going to be spending a bunch more of his hard earned money to up-grade the rest of his ride. I know that the set-up I suggested is good up to a Mopar Performance 509 hydraulic camshaft and will turn at least 6500 rpm's, because I've run this combo personally and have had no problems with it. In fact, I'm running this set-up in the 440 in my 1966 Coronet with the MP .284 - .484 hydraulic camshaft. While my 440 is only putting out around 375 to 400 hp, it has been drag raced hard from 1991 to 1998 and is still running like it did when it was new. Admittedly, it doesn't see many miles each year, but it IS driven hard and is not a trailer queen by any means. Just saying.......

Richard

I hear you loud and clear and have made the same argument in the past. My thoughts for anyone who wants to build a good street performer can do it with bolt on parts and production heads - just like you and most of us here. When you start with a MoPar there isn't much to do to make it go fast.

The only way for me to measure results is to go to the track and check my MPH. HP numbers do me no good since I don't have a dyno to measure results. I think most people would be pleasantly surprised with even 400 crank HP.

MadMike, do a compression test on your engine. I'd like to see it blow about 150 PSI with the lumpy cam. You can measure the lift at the valve retainer using a dial indicator and that will give you some idea. Make sure the indicator plunger is straight in line with the valve stem. Chances are it's a moderate performance grind and you should be able to work around that.

An old buddy years ago had a 100 HP carb plate kit on his 383 Formula S Barracuda. The engine was a basic build - .474 cam, torker, my pocket ported 915's and stock iron exhaust manifolds. On 8" slicks the car ran 12.20's and once it made 11.80 @ 120 MPH on street tires at Fremont. I drove it once with the juice and it got greasy at around 60 MPH when I hit the button. So yeah, it works!!

 

[44070dart]

head work or any MOPAR work

Outrageously Vintage, Inc. - Searsmont, ME 04973 - (207)342-2704 see this guy if you want honest quality and a fair price for your head work ..you should find out the specs on your cam first though :yes:

 

[dantrap]

Madmike you should get more info on the engine if your going to spray it. To make it your mill last a lot more is required than just bolting a plate system on. A few simple mistakes and you can do some real damage quickly. If that system goes lean you will have a heap of trouble before you can even shut it down.

 

[69HEMICORONETR/TCONV]

Budget building , I would go with 906s , there good , there plentiful and there cheaper, If you want splurge a little look into the 1967 915s close chambers. either way you are still gonna have to get hardened valve seats to run on todays crummy gas with out damaging it.

 

[thebankerstoy]

Budget building , I would go with 906s , there good , there plentiful and there cheaper, If you want splurge a little look into the 1967 915s close chambers. either way you are still gonna have to get hardened valve seats to run on todays crummy gas with out damaging it.

You could also run a set of the 452 head castings, which already have the hardened valve seats.

Richard

 

[69HEMICORONETR/TCONV]

Yep , That's right ! , I almost forgot about 452s !

 

[69 Runner]

452's only have induction hardened seats which will be most likely lost during a valve job

 

[69Bee]

You could also run a set of the 452 head castings, which already have the hardened valve seats.

Richard

If the 452's have had at least one valve job done already, the "Induction Hardened" seats are gone. It would be prudent to put NEW hardened seats in whichever head you choose to use.

 

[69 Runner]

thought I said that:HappyNewYear:

 

[69Bee]

Hmmm, guess you did. Either it wasn't there when I posted, or I just plain missed it. I would probably go with the latter though...

 

[Budnicks]

cheaper stuff Chinese casting
440source.com , aluminum heads
Stealth's, or Super Stealth's MW in various configurations
you can get them in a bunch of different ways

100% Made in USA, available in several versions,
different Valve springs etc.
Edelbrock RPM's 78cc-84cc-88cc
1500-6200 rpms
291cfm in 217cfm exh @ 0.600" gross lift
2.14 & 181 valves

or Eddy E-Streets 78cc-84cc about the same ports/flow design
a bit cheaper, cheaper parts & less options
idle to 5500 rpms
2.14 & 1.81 valves

Edelbrock Victor or Super Victor MW, a tad bit more, it's more head
is also a great option, it's a raised port long vale head
great potential especially if your build a race engine
having them professionally ported

spend a tad bit more, than the RPM's like $400-$600 more
get Trick Flows new 240cc ports, great write ups so far
they have a 280cc ports available now too

after that would be INDY stuff, it gets a bit pricey
more than any above
many require exterior oiling & offset valve-train, it adds up
some good heads thou
buy from someone other than INDY,
like Mancini Racing or someone other than INDY

IMO that just a quick assessment from my experiences

different strokes for different folks
Iron heads have their place too,
just not in the same category or advantages as the Aluminum heads
it's come a long way since this thread was started too
here's a good older article Hot Rod tech archives of Mopar Muscle Mag
Cylinder heads part 1, from 1998,
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/cylinder-heads/
make sure to check out the photos & spec. detailed in them
any of the aluminum heads above will be better...

good luck & happy Moparing

 

[dieseldazzle]

I hear you loud and clear and have made the same argument in the past. My thoughts for anyone who wants to build a good street performer can do it with bolt on parts and production heads - just like you and most of us here. When you start with a MoPar there isn't much to do to make it go fast.

The only way for me to measure results is to go to the track and check my MPH. HP numbers do me no good since I don't have a dyno to measure results. I think most people would be pleasantly surprised with even 400 crank HP.

MadMike, do a compression test on your engine. I'd like to see it blow about 150 PSI with the lumpy cam. You can measure the lift at the valve retainer using a dial indicator and that will give you some idea. Make sure the indicator plunger is straight in line with the valve stem. Chances are it's a moderate performance grind and you should be able to work around that.

An old buddy years ago had a 100 HP carb plate kit on his 383 Formula S Barracuda. The engine was a basic build - .474 cam, torker, my pocket ported 915's and stock iron exhaust manifolds. On 8" slicks the car ran 12.20's and once it made 11.80 @ 120 MPH on street tires at Fremont. I drove it once with the juice and it got greasy at around 60 MPH when I hit the button. So yeah, it works!!

That old buddy is my dead uncle "dick" Richard Ibbeson. RIP.

My first nitrous ride ever I was maybe 9-10 and he sprayed it going up ygnacio valley with"smoothie" on it. That was the nickName of the plate kit he had on it. He had to give it back to Ron Clark when he was done with it as he only borrowed it.

Two decades later "smoothie" propelled many a street and track car to uncle my own small block late model Capri to 10.80s

Memories. Nobody can take them from you.