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Best oil for flat tappet cam

When hot in the sun you need sunscreen protection, Zinc based.

Hot hard working Engines need a high Zinc based Oil, or a VG *Fully Synthetic* Oil.
New modern engines use roller cams to compensate for lack of Zinc even in best brands of oils.
Zinc like lead destroys Catalytic Exhausts. Sometime in the next
couple of years there will be zero Zinc in modern oils to extend catalyst life.
Use a Zinc Addative.

What I was told by Purdue Hydraulics Professor Steve Widmer agrees with Peter H. The zinc and phosphorus destroys the catalytic converters so they are being phased out. He also said the purpose of these is to help the oil stick to the shiny, smooth machined surfaces (like a cam lobe and flat tappet face).
 
What is the best oil (in your opinion) for a 413 maxwedge with a flat tappet cam. I race the car in 1/8 mile. The car is a 1962 Plymouth Belvedere...I've been using VR1.. Moparcleyon

Brad Penn.
 
I have been using "Shell Rotella" 15W40 for awhile. The store counter person looks at me funny when I buy it but doesn't say anything.
 
VR1 has a lot of zinc,I use STP small blue bottle it has the most zinc you can buy,I run VR-1 30w& STP in my stocker 383,valve spring seat 150-170 hyd cam flat tappet.
 
Make sure you notice that its a Gallon jug (Shell Rotella) and not 5 qts. So you will have to buy an extra qt or more for what you need.
 
With the flat tappet engine, I have excellent luck with Rotella diesel 15-45. it has 1050 PPM Zinc. In addition, it has additives that more mimic the oils made in the 60's. The new oils have too much detergent and dispersants,and friction modifiers, and not enough corrosion Inhibitors. Per "classic oils". I also add lucas part# 10036 zinc additive,
where only 4oz to five quarts will Increase Rotella from1050 to 2500 or more. I've broken in seven mopar engines this way, from 440 magnum to 340, 273, etc. I use Rotella diesel in all my old cars on a regular basis, and use lucas as well. the Insurance is worth it. This combo doesn't have the drain down features of modern oil, leaving parts unprotected. Rotella also eliminated the dry starting sound I hated after an extended storage. I've done this with mobil as well, and chevron. I drive diesel Cummins trucks, so I get whichever is on sale. This has been my experience, just get a good diesel oil, and use a small amount of lucas. You don't have to break the bank with expensive oils.
 
A friend of mine is in the oil distribution business. He tells me if the container doesn't say "Not intended for highway use" or something similar it doesn't contain enough zinc for a flat tappet cam motor. I realize this is still someone's opinion. Near the end of this Valvoline article it seems to hint that if you want really high zinc you need "not for street use" oil. http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ A lot of oil manufacturers say "we have enough zinc" or "we have more than the other guys". But it seems the number I keep hearing is you need 1500ppm or so of zinc to be safe. Most of the racing oils allowed for street use are 1200-1300. I'm using Valvoline "not for street" version of their racing oil. (there are two different versions) If nothing else it make me feel better.
 
I use Amsoil with a zinc blend in my 440 and my other motors with flat tappets with a bottle of the old type of STP and I've never had any problems. I use Amsoil without zinc in my roller tappet motors and have always had good results. it seem to me that 50W oil is too thick unless your motors are set up loose with alot of clearance.
 
Amsoil Signature Series. 10-40. High zinc.
 
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