best street cam 440

[AMX364]

I always set preload with intake off. PITA but I can see what is happening. Really, really PITA on a Ford FE.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Tighten adjuster down to zero lash if you want .020 preload loosen adjuster until feeler gauge slides under rocker tip pay attention to the amount of turns or partial that it took now tighten down from zero lash that amount and you are at .020 preload.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Pretty much what 67Satty said about finding zero lash but I go one full turn from zero lash (.042" assuming a 3/8-24 thread).

 

[383 a4 runner]

When my rr was originally built by my dad he put a .484 purple shaft in it. After a few weeks he changed it out to the .509. It runs a lot better now, especially with the 4.56 gears. I'm running 3000 stall manual valve body with 29x12.5 m/t sportsmans. I did have a 4.30 but I like the 4.56 better. I'm also running stock valve train with ported 906's. I shift around 6500 rpm. When it was my dads he shifted around 7500-8000 and put a pushrod through the rocker.

 

[69a100]

There is no such thing as a "best stock street cam". Pick something and try it, you'll learn what you think is best.

this is correct. too many variables to pick one profile and think it's good for all purposes. cam profile selection can be as foggy as picking converters.

Both these statements are true. A good lesson from Steve Dulcich here is to take the stock specs of what Mopar originally put into the motor, and add no more than 10% of stock duration. And add no more than .050" to the stock lift, you will have a very sweet street engine that can use a/the stock converter. I did this to my 383 and yeah, I'm real happy. My spec were more like 7% dur and .040" lift added to the stock numbers.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Both these statements are true. A good lesson from Steve Dulcich here is to take the stock specs of what Mopar originally put into the motor, and add no more than 10% of stock duration. And add no more than .050" to the stock lift, you will have a very sweet street engine that can use a/the stock converter. I did this to my 383 and yeah, I'm real happy. My spec were more like 7% dur and .040" lift added to the stock numbers.

I don't know who that is but it's a similar theory I came up with when I built the 440 in my green Belvedere. And now that it's running the theory has been proven to work very well. I am a bit less specific by saying "just a little tweak over the stock HP cams will make a substantial difference for a street car".

 

[HT413]

When my rr was originally built by my dad he put a .484 purple shaft in it. After a few weeks he changed it out to the .509. It runs a lot better now, especially with the 4.56 gears. I'm running 3000 stall manual valve body with 29x12.5 m/t sportsmans. I did have a 4.30 but I like the 4.56 better. I'm also running stock valve train with ported 906's. I shift around 6500 rpm. When it was my dads he shifted around 7500-8000 and put a pushrod through the rocker.

Lol, your dad is/was a mad man.

 

[SlinktRR]

what rpm

When my rr was originally built by my dad he put a .484 purple shaft in it. After a few weeks he changed it out to the .509. It runs a lot better now, especially with the 4.56 gears. I'm running 3000 stall manual valve body with 29x12.5 m/t sportsmans. I did have a 4.30 but I like the 4.56 better. I'm also running stock valve train with ported 906's. I shift around 6500 rpm. When it was my dads he shifted around 7500-8000 and put a pushrod through the rocker.

what rpm are you turning at 65mph with the 4.56? And how many passes did that motor survive at 8000, wow

 

[Garys1969RR]

Im surprised he didn't throw a rod shifting at 7500 RPM! That motor was put together well. In my 451 with the 509 cam, the torque seems to drop off around 5000 RPM. This may be the intake manifold restricting flow at higher RPMs.