Big block aluminum heads

[super-bee_ski]

Get a set of 452s or 906s and have a certified HEAD shop/guy do them up
Save yourself a thousand dollars!

To me: Cast Iron heads are great!
Providing you are not racing it on a track and you wish to minimize weight

 

[747mopar]

Get a set of 452s or 906s and have a certified HEAD shop/guy do them up
Save yourself a thousand dollars!

To me: Cast Iron heads are great!
Providing you are not racing it on a track and you wish to minimize weight

Unfortunately most factory heads are in need of a full rework, it adds up quick. With the price of the Stealth's being so low it's not worth it unless your going original or just like cast iron but it all depends on the condition.

I regret building mine given how much it cost but they do work very well.

 

[747mopar]

******
Are we talking about changing to a lighter spring for break in or changing because they don't come with the correct spring?

 

[roadrunner69440]

Unfortunately most factory heads are in need of a full rework, it adds up quick. With the price of the Stealth's being so low it's not worth it unless your going original or just like cast iron but it all depends on the condition.

I regret building mine given how much it cost but they do work very well.

What heads are you running ? I already have a set of 906's and 346's done with hardened seats , not sure if they have 3angle or 5 angle valve job , but they have new valves and resurfaced.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Here are their numbers

View attachment 395887 View attachment 395888 View attachment 395890 View attachment 395891

Todd is a knowledgeabe and an everything scorce for matched combos.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Hey bud , I'm not even sure I would have to change the springs for sure as I don't know what they are rated for . They claim it's for a hydraulic lifter/ cam , I'm going to run a solid ,, somewhere in the 560-580 range. Any thoughts you have would be helpful ,, thanks

Brother you need to know what spring pressures your cam and lifter package is calling for both open and closed then you can reference the springs on the heads. Lots of folks don't have this info and throw **** together and get lucky that it runs. And when it does run they think it runs great because they don't realize what they are missing.

Valve trains are most commonly setup wrong from spring rates to push rod length etc etc.

 

[roadrunner69440]

Brother you need to know what spring pressures your cam and lifter package is calling for both open and closed then you can reference the springs on the heads. Lots of folks don't have this info and throw **** together and get lucky that it runs. And when it does run they think it runs great because they don't realize what they are missing.

Valve trains are most commonly setup wrong from spring rates to push rod length etc etc.

Thank you and I totally understand I need to check all this and then make the call as to what I need . I think some of us kinda went on a rabbit trail although it's relevant . I'm trying to decide on a head that's right for me based on some of you alls experience . I don't have deep pockets ( fishpaste360!) or I would just go Indy . So ,, I'm looking for the best bang for my buck I guess . Then that will lead to flow numbers then cam . If the head is a good head but don't flow high 200's then maybe I don't quite need a solid and I could just go with a hydralic cam . Am I piecing this together or just rambling ? Lol

 

[747mopar]

What heads are you running ? I already have a set of 906's and 346's done with hardened seats , not sure if they have 3angle or 5 angle valve job , but they have new valves and resurfaced.

452s which are very comparable to the 906s from what I've read. I went ahead and had larger valves installed then ported them, mostly bowl work and a clean up in the runners. Flow test showed they were comparable to the Stealth's.

 

[mmissile]

No chi-com crap.

 

[747mopar]

Man did this go south!!

I hate seeing threads take turns like this. We have no idea what the OP's background is or how much experience he has with building Mopar motors. We don't know if he's ever assembled a head? Having said that I think we all need to keep in mind that people come here because of the vast amount of knowledge at your fingertips with so many racers and guys that have been doing it for years not to argue or get into spats.



Back to my point earlier, just order the heads bare and have them assembled with the proper parts. I would never buy assembled heads and just bolt them on anyways, a few minutes of valve lapping could save you pulling the motor back apart.

On another motor I had built the Dart heads I used were just under $1000 fully assembled, the shop ordered them bare, ground the valves and seats and assembled them with all the right parts and set the spring pressure as well for roughly the same cost so it's really a no brainer. I will add that the shop I use builds a lot of race motors so they likely can buy parts at a discount, it was cheaper to have them purchase everything. Good luck

 

[roadrunner69440]

452s which are very comparable to the 906s from what I've read. I went ahead and had larger valves installed then ported them, mostly bowl work and a clean up in the runners. Flow test showed they were comparable to the Stealth's.

Man did this go south!!

I hate seeing threads take turns like this. We have no idea what the OP's background is or how much experience he has with building Mopar motors. We don't know if he's ever assembled a head? Having said that I think we all need to keep in mind that people come here because of the vast amount of knowledge at your fingertips with so many racers and guys that have been doing it for years not to argue or get into spats.



Back to my point earlier, just order the heads bare and have them assembled with the proper parts. I would never buy assembled heads and just bolt them on anyways, a few minutes of valve lapping could save you pulling the motor back apart.

On another motor I had built the Dart heads I used were just under $1000 fully assembled, the shop ordered them bare, ground the valves and seats and assembled them with all the right parts and set the spring pressure as well for roughly the same cost so it's really a no brainer. I will add that the shop I use builds a lot of race motors so they likely can buy parts at a discount, it was cheaper to have them purchase everything. Good luck

thanks BUD ! I agree with everything you just said and I did loose my cool , I deal with the public every day and see negativity , I get SO sick of it ! Moving on ,,, I was just thinking before you sent that last post ,, going with a little cheaper casting , pro comp or sidewinder ( which I think is the same head ) and putting my own goodies in them . I mean what's one of the biggest fears of scattering an engine ,, sucking in a valve and grenading everything ( I had this happen ) so I'll use good parts in the heads . I'm goin to call Marsh racing today . Thank you all for your time and advice , it DOES mean a lot to me ! Have a good day guys !!!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Anyone notice the rpm's are cheaper than the estreet on summits web site? I know they fire sale'd the rpms because trickflow is putting a hurting on them. Seems the estreets should be even cheaper.

 

[vintage chromoly]

There is no "ready to run head" that is mass produced.
If you take the chance and believe the advertising hype, you may or may not get lucky.
Heads need to be disassembled, cleaned, chambers CC'd, guides checked, spring psi, coil bind and installed height checked, valve job checked etc......:

 

[roadrunner69440]

Anyone notice the rpm's are cheaper than the estreet on summits web site? I know they fire sale'd the rpms because trickflow is putting a hurting on them. Seems the estreets should be even cheaper.

I saw that too,, what's the difference between the two ? They look the same spec wise but I haven't seen the flow specs yet.

There is no "ready to run head" that is mass produced.
If you take the chance and believe the advertising hype, you may or may not get lucky.
Heads need to be disassembled, cleaned, chambers CC'd, guides checked, spring psi, coil bind and installed height checked, valve job checked etc......:

I agree , after doing a LOT of homework and listening to you guys , thats what im going to do is just assemble my own no big deal really. thanks you all for the replies and guidance and I'm sorry for that one fella and all his rants ( whom ive ignored now ) thats not even close to what this thread was supposed to be used for. most of you guys have been racing and building engines for a long time and I really appreciate the input! again, thank you all !!!!

 

[rumblefish360]

post edited

Peace pipe smoking

 

[1967coronet440]

I saw that too,, what's the difference between the two ? They look the same spec wise but I haven't seen the flow specs yet.

I agree , after doing a LOT of homework and listening to you guys , thats what im going to do is just assemble my own no big deal really. thanks you all for the replies and guidance and I'm sorry for that one fella and all his rants ( whom ive ignored now ) thats not even close to what this thread was supposed to be used for. most of you guys have been racing and building engines for a long time and I really appreciate the input! again, thank you all !!!!

Good luck with your build buddy.

 

[roadrunner69440]

Good luck with your build buddy.

Thanks man !!!

 

[super-bee_ski]

Unfortunately most factory heads are in need of a full rework, it adds up quick. With the price of the Stealth's being so low it's not worth it unless your going original or just like cast iron but it all depends on the condition.

I regret building mine given how much it cost but they do work very well.

I had my 906s done
Was only about $400 I think (Stage 1)
But that was the year 2001
Yes, as you state 747mopar, any head needs to be checked...
Great advice
PS: Mine were done at "INDY" when Indy was good!

 

[Budnicks]

I'm not going to into some pissing match, about Iron vs Aluminum
or one specific head or specific dealer is the better than anyone else

There are a ton of threads all over FBBO, many by @IQ52,
he's my go to advice guy now as it comes to Mopar heads/porting
professionals/experts/Mopar engine builders, great guy too...
I trust him & his opinions 100%, I can't say that about many people...

Use the advanced Search feature, above on the right,
do your own search, lots of great threads/posts...

There are certainly better alum. cylinder-heads,
than I will ad here below, but no where near the same price points...

There is Aluminum Cylinder heads with a Max Wedge size style port too
if you want/need the bigger port...
Like the Victor Edelbrock is a great example...

I'm not new to building Mopars or Strokers, been there done that
I'm still learning everyday, I learn something else too...

I'll try to keep it somewhat simple...

IMO humble opinion of the "mid price point alum. heads",
not extreme or hi-$$$ stuff, best bang for the buck

I'd go with
Edelbrocks RPM's 75cc or 84cc 1500-6500 RPM or
even maybe the E-Street's idle-5500 RPM 75cc or 84cc,
depending on your pistons compression ratio etc.
or what cylinder head gaskets you use,
will effect static compression {or quench area} drastically

the ports are very similar on both versions
291cfm int & 217cfm exh. @ 0.600" gross valve lift

you can get the RPM's equipped with different springs too
fro hydraulic rollers & hydraulic flat tappet alike

IIRC the E-Street's have hydraulic flat tappet style camshaft
valve-springs installed

check out Edelbrock's website 1st

E-Street
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/e-street-bb.shtml

RPM
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/performer-rpm-bb.shtml

American made founded right here in SoCal, still doing it today too
American supplied, parts, valves, retainers, springs locks, seals etc.

I haven't tried the Trick flows yet,
seen some great results on them too...
Most the other brands mentioned here, are cast in China or some other "Knockoff" type deal
I don't have 1st hand experience with, to make a proper or honest assessment...
I try to buy Made In America 1st & foremost, even if it's a bit more...

INDY has great product too, a tad bit pricey for the most part
{or will expensive special valve-train etc., not all but most}
also, I'm not sure they have something in your budget range,
sounds like your doing it on a tighter budget...
& IMO their customer service thru them sucks ***
If you buy INDY heads buy them from someone other than INDY,
like Mancini Racing or someone else...
It's Long story...

I had early versions of the Stealth's they didn't flow anything like advertised
only 250cfm IIRC about what a mild port job on a Cast Iron head would be...
After fully porting I got {my head porter Mark Lowe} 330cfm out of some...
I had a bad experience with the Stealths, combustion camber etc., long story...
but 440source.com made it all good, stood behind their product,
I ate the shipping costs, small price to pay IMO...
I have no issues with 95% of 440source.com parts,
especially the Made in USA stuff/Platinum series...
I've used a bunch of their stuff, in several of my stroker builds...
Wouldn't hesitate to use them again too...
The stealth's can be painted & to look a bunch more like
an OE iron head does...
They also have a Super Stealth with MW ports, if you need that sort of thing...

BUT;
In my experiances the Out of the Box cfm flows on the Edelbrock RPM's
is better than most Cast Iron 906/452 etc. Ported Heads {unless it's taken way out &
more flow than the Stealth's prior to fully porting too...

I hope some of that rambling actually helps you make an educated decision...

Good luck

 

[roadrunner69440]

I'm not going to into some pissing match, about Iron vs Aluminum
or one specific head or specific dealer is the better than anyone else

There are a ton of threads all over FBBO, many by @IQ52,
he's my go to advice guy now as it comes to Mopar heads/porting
professionals/experts/Mopar engine builders, great guy too...
I trust him & his opinions 100%, I can't say that about many people...

Use the advanced Search feature, above on the right,
do your own search, lots of great threads/posts...

There are certainly better alum. cylinder-heads,
than I will ad here below, but no where near the same price points...

There is Aluminum Cylinder heads with a Max Wedge size style port too
if you want/need the bigger port...
Like the Victor Edelbrock is a great example...

I'm not new to building Mopars or Strokers, been there done that
I'm still learning everyday, I learn something else too...

I'll try to keep it somewhat simple...

IMO humble opinion of the "mid price point alum. heads",
not extreme or hi-$$$ stuff, best bang for the buck

I'd go with
Edelbrocks RPM's 75cc or 84cc 1500-6500 RPM or
even maybe the E-Street's idle-5500 RPM 75cc or 84cc,
depending on your pistons compression ratio etc.
or what cylinder head gaskets you use,
will effect static compression {or quench area} drastically

the ports are very similar on both versions
291cfm int & 217cfm exh. @ 0.600" gross valve lift

you can get the RPM's equipped with different springs too
fro hydraulic rollers & hydraulic flat tappet alike

IIRC the E-Street's have hydraulic flat tappet style camshaft
valve-springs installed

check out Edelbrock's website 1st

E-Street
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/e-street-bb.shtml

RPM
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/performer-rpm-bb.shtml

American made founded right here in SoCal, still doing it today too
American supplied, parts, valves, retainers, springs locks, seals etc.

I haven't tried the Trick flows yet,
seen some great results on them too...
Most the other brands mentioned here, are cast in China or some other "Knockoff" type deal
I don't have 1st hand experience with, to make a proper or honest assessment...
I try to buy Made In America 1st & foremost, even if it's a bit more...

INDY has great product too, a tad bit pricey for the most part
{or will expensive special valve-train etc., not all but most}
also, I'm not sure they have something in your budget range,
sounds like your doing it on a tighter budget...
& IMO their customer service thru them sucks ***
If you buy INDY heads buy them from someone other than INDY,
like Mancini Racing or someone else...
It's Long story...

I had early versions of the Stealth's they didn't flow anything like advertised
only 250cfm IIRC about what a mild port job on a Cast Iron head would be...
After fully porting I got {my head porter Mark Lowe} 330cfm out of some...
I had a bad experience with the Stealths, combustion camber etc., long story...
but 440source.com made it all good, stood behind their product,
I ate the shipping costs, small price to pay IMO...
I have no issues with 95% of 440source.com parts,
especially the Made in USA stuff/Platinum series...
I've used a bunch of their stuff, in several of my stroker builds...
Wouldn't hesitate to use them again too...
The stealth's can be painted & to look a bunch more like
an OE iron head does...
They also have a Super Stealth with MW ports, if you need that sort of thing...

BUT;
In my experiances the Out of the Box cfm flows on the Edelbrock RPM's
is better than most Cast Iron 906/452 etc. Ported Heads {unless it's taken way out &
more flow than the Stealth's prior to fully porting too...

I hope some of that rambling actually helps you make an educated decision...

Good luck

thats a great read ! thanks , I really value your input !