440rb
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The '69 uses solid mounts, I have only been in the car from the pits to staging lanes but it seems ok, no adverse shaking or the like and we have external oiling of course.
Biomedtechguy 572 Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block build thread and other stuff...
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gregsdart
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This will be a bombshell of a ride! May i suggest focusing on doing anything possible to shift weight rearward in your car, or lightening the front. With the torque you will have on tap you will need every bit of rear bias you can put in the car. Also sticky, bias "street" slicks like Mickeys
440rb
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Disagreeing is fine with me, its a discussion board after all but if you do at least tell others why and your experiences with solid mounts with your combo so it may help others in making that decision.
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Thanks for the post.
The aluminum block is a good start!
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I saw that. I'm thinking he may have fat fingered that part of the screen?
@Curiousyellow71 Why the Red X?
Curiousyellow71
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Corrected...Fat fingers on my phone. Big fan of your project.
@440rb. My bad...love your avatar by the way.
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Thank you for the interest and comments! I was asking more for @440rb whose post you had red x'd. BOTH of you have been very helpful, having experience with similar builds.Corrected...Fat fingers on my phone. Big fan of your project.
On the topic of my 572 build, I just got the latest email regarding a HUGE job that I already took as "a given", asking me when I can schedule the work. It's about a 6 week job with occasional days to deal with other work that may come up that I have to do. I'm expecting to make enough money to pay for any remaining parts and put some towards labor that is yet to be done. It's a big payday. I may get the rear wheel tubs/leaf spring relocation work and related work (trunk pan, paint match) done while I wait for parts to come in.
gregsdart
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If you have the option, moving the rear axle forward is VERY helpful. Anything you can do is a help. For asthetics , i limited the move forward on my drag car to 6 inch. That and 17 inch engine setback equaled tail draging wheelstands at 700 hp. At 880 hp, uncontrolable.
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I appreciate all replies, but that is WAY beyond anything I even thought about doing.
I'm hoping I don't need solid motor mounts, and definitely not a plate, so changing wheelbase or engine setback is past the parking lot, on the other side of the river from the ballpark.
What I have in mind is a "street terror" "Boulevard Bruiser" that I can drive 600 miles with the AC on if I want to, but not be too limited in my viability to win against other cars that do or could drive to and home from the racetrack.
You've got the roll cage situation figured out?
Or are these non sanctioned tracks you'll be at?
Or are these non sanctioned tracks you'll be at?
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No, not figured out yet but I prefer chromoly steel if that saves some weight, adds strength, and maybe a smaller diameter, and unless it's out of reach more expensive than steel.
Maybe some of the 9-10 second ¼ mile racers can reply?
The track won't let you run without appropriate gear for the ET/MPH you are running. My friend with the 9 second yellow Vette would run w/out a fire jacket or roll cage until he reached his warning limit for the night, which I think was 3 runs total. Eventually he got the equipment he needed.
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gregsdart
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There is a thread on Moparts racer forum about weight removal. It is an unbelievable 140 plus pages long! Things that fit in your vision/plan should be in there. For starters having an aluminum block is huge. A light battery is also great. I just acquired a 60 ah Dakota lithium battery for my racer, 16.5 lbs, and has as much reserve as a 100ah lead acid because of very little voltage drop as it discharges. The superstock racers found ways to shift the engine/trans rearward what ever they could. Even a 1/4 inch is a help! Remember, you are shifting 600 lbs! Good luck with this project. It should be a riot!
Oh, last thing( i think) if you set up the suspension to rise up what ever you can (4,5 inch?) On the street, it will really help a lot to get max load on the rear tires before blowing them off.
Oh, last thing( i think) if you set up the suspension to rise up what ever you can (4,5 inch?) On the street, it will really help a lot to get max load on the rear tires before blowing them off.
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I never thought about that.
The aluminum alloy in the BMP block is a very strong blend.
I may ask Bill about this.
RoasterStrudel
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Curious about this myself. Are these areas better reinforced on aftermarket blocks, or is it because of it's design that it might not be able to handle it?
Modern cars make pretty big power on regular motor mounts. But those also have a chassis engineered to match (e.g. Hellcat Redeye cars).
IQ52
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Do you think Bill may tell you that his blocks turn into horse poop pretzels when you bolt them into your car? Hmm?
You could ask him "What's the best way to mount the engine, motor plate or standard mounts".
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Maybe I should ask you instead?
I've had the question posted for a while now.
I appreciate all the help you have given me my friend, including "car stuff" questions.
To answer your question about what Bill would say, I'd expect an honest answer from him.
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Always good to hear from you my friend!
Please check in on this particular thread from time to time. The main focus of it is the 572 build up of the BMP aluminum big bore RB block, but I also wanted it to cover related topics.
Your words on Mopar engines are like Krugerrands to my mind. The next best thing to having you do the build, but so far from your talented, skilled, uniquely knowledgeable abilities so distant as to hardly compare, but still treasured, will be ANY comments, advice, criticism, or anything you feel like posting.
My greatest hope is that it meets or exceeds MY expectations, my next greatest hope is that the finished, tuned result meets with YOUR approval!
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