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Blown Injected Hemi

I cant wait to see this thing...


I LOVE the look of a Blown engine...

You know, INDY Cylinder Head is always advertising their 408" Small Block Supercharged with 725HP for only $14,000
 

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I cant wait to see this thing...


I LOVE the look of a Blown engine...

You know, INDY Cylinder Head is always advertising their 408" Small Block Supercharged with 725HP for only $14,000

That ModMan intake requires extra machine work to be usable in a blown application. No backfire valve provided or installed. That intake is $634 and should include a valve. Kinda missleading to advertise a 671 supercharger manifold and it not be complete.
The supercharger top plate isnt in an ideal location,
kinda strange how Indy fails to disclose this info on their website. An expensive offset distributor is
required, a $795 surprise!

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2059 have you considered 16 point EFI?
Best of luck on your build.
Ray Barton O-Rings and cuts receiver grooves in my sb blown engines. I run copper head gaskets.
 

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Holy Cow 2059!
I have to see this BEAST!

PS:
Hemi itis says: "Stay true and use the push button shifter"

"My BALLS are not that big!

As soon as I start the disassembly i'll get some picts posted...

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Thanks for an update...
2059 any photos of the actual project ?
not Elite advertisement stuff in that link...
it's interesting but I/we wanted to see the project...

Will do..

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How fast do you want to go 2059?

not really a fast thing with me.. more a Quick/show thing.... I know I'll get crap from the racers out there. that's ok. DW doesn't want me racing so i won't..
 
2059...
This is going to be awesome...

A Ray barton set-up on top of the "Full Blown" experience...
A piece of ART!

Cant wait...
"are we there yet?" "are we there yet?" "are we there yet?"

:happy1:
 
Going hoodless to keep the 80's street rat vibe?
 
Hey mirada, Yes I did consider a 16 point. Talking to David, he was comfortable getting to the 850HP mark with an 8 point up top. I haven't seen the final proposal yet so He and Ray may want to go that way. I trust them. We'll see.

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2059...
This is going to be awesome...

A Ray barton set-up on top of the "Full Blown" experience...
A piece of ART!

Cant wait...
"are we there yet?" "are we there yet?" "are we there yet?"

:happy1:

should be a "kick in the pants"...
 
Yeah,
Im patiently waiting to see this engine...

Its like waiting for the ketchup to slowly emerge from the bottle...
A-N-T-I-C-I-P-A-T-I-O-N

LOL
 
Going hoodless to keep the 80's street rat vibe?

initially gpuller.... however; i do like things buttoned up and what a treat it will be lifting the hood on an "old blown dodge" and finding a Hemi anchoring the injected 8-71...

Hemi-its lives the "Blown Hemi" dream every day!!!
 
Ordered the Rims, tires and Headers yesterday also started the age-old battle of; how am I going to keep this thing cool?!. I talked to Bob at GlenRay yesterday and he was hesitant to commit that one of his best 22" radiators will get the job done on ~850HP. I appreciate his honesty. He said if I had the opening for the 26" Next Generation it would be no problem. He did say that I would need about 3500 CFM to get the job done and suggested I give Wizard a call. I have a call into them. he also told me that in a heads up comparison, with ALL things being equal, there is only about a 1% difference in cooling between Aluminum and Copper/brass radiators. The obvious advantage is weight with Aluminum.

So here's where I'm at; I hate like hell to modify the radiator support in any way. I'm going to see what Wizard has to offer. I'm going to wait until I get the engine and driveline installed in order to see what kind of space I have to work with. From the water pump pulley flange it will be what I have now, what I don't know is the forward space that will be eaten up by the blower drive pulley/belt/idler...

As always, input/suggestions/comments greatly appreciated.
 
This is great 2059 - that's going to one sweet ride for you to store in that awesome garage . . . Can't wait to see more pictures . . . Keep them coming !
 
Ordered the Rims, tires and Headers yesterday also started the age-old battle of; how am I going to keep this thing cool?!. I talked to Bob at GlenRay yesterday and he was hesitant to commit that one of his best 22" radiators will get the job done on ~850HP. I appreciate his honesty. He said if I had the opening for the 26" Next Generation it would be no problem. He did say that I would need about 3500 CFM to get the job done and suggested I give Wizard a call. I have a call into them. he also told me that in a heads up comparison, with ALL things being equal, there is only about a 1% difference in cooling between Aluminum and Copper/brass radiators. The obvious advantage is weight with Aluminum.

So here's where I'm at; I hate like hell to modify the radiator support in any way. I'm going to see what Wizard has to offer. I'm going to wait until I get the engine and driveline installed in order to see what kind of space I have to work with. From the water pump pulley flange it will be what I have now, what I don't know is the forward space that will be eaten up by the blower drive pulley/belt/idler...

As always, input/suggestions/comments greatly appreciated.

Go 26", you absolutely don't want to be sitting there in the middle of a 95F summer day hoping like hell your going to be cool enough, especially when Bob at GlenRay is hesitant with his BEST 22". Mod for 26".
 
on the softer side. decided to reupholster the set of bucket seats i've had for about 4 years. tore them down to the frames this afternoon. I have the new foam and the covers are coming from Legendary in a month or so. some of you guys will know what these came out of, I was told a '65 something. don't remember.... doesn't really matter to me, just a different look. the passenger seat back foam was in descent shape. a bit of history there. 50 year old foam with the good old AMERICAN mfg. markings,,, sad really...
 

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I was with uncle ray last week picking up my stuff he has a cool injection system hidden under the manifold there
 
Received the overview list and estimate from Ray Barton Racing yesterday. Fairly vague in this post, I'll get more detailed once he gets into it, but you get the gist.

Rebuild Hemi, Blower Upgrade with EFI, 800+ Horsepower

K1 H-Beam Rods, BB Mopar, 6.860" X 1.031",
ARP 2000 Bolts Diamond Custom Dome Piston –
Blown Hemi Diamond Pin Fit Piston
Wrist Pin
Ring Set
Comp Valve Spring
Manley Titanium Retainer Comp Lash Caps Note - Should be able to use supplied valve spring cups and locks Viton Valve Seal
RBRE Hemi Solid Flat Tappet
Camshaft B/RB/Hemi
Tool Steel Solid Lifters (Set of 16) Note - Should be able to use supplied pushrods
Dura-Bond Cam Bearing Set,
BB Chrysler Clevite Rod Bearing, B/RB/Hemi, 2.375"
Journal King Main Bearings,
Hemi K&P Oil Filter, Billet Aluminum, 3/4"-16 Thread, No Bypass, Machine Finish
Joe Gibbs Break-in Oil, BR30, 5w-30,
Auto-Lite Racing Spark Plug, 14mm X 3/4 Reach, 13/16" Hex, Gasket Seal, Non Resistor
RBRE BB Mopar Timing Cover Gasket
RBRE Hemi Standard Intake Gasket, .060" Thick
RBRE BB Mopar Oil Pan Gasket Cometic Head Gasket,
Gen 2 Hemi, 4.250" X .040", 4.310" Gasket Bore
Cometic Valve Cover Gasket, Hemi, Rubber with Steel Spline
VP C12, 108 Octane Racing Fuel, One Gallon
The Blower Shop 8-71 Billet Blower Kit, Hemi Includes: 8-71 Polished Billet Blower, Hard Anodize, 2V Accessory Kit, Polished Manifold Kinsler EFI Injector Plate and Hat System TPS Mount and Sensor, IAC Motor with remote housing and filter element, Injectors, Polished Injector Plate, Polished Fuel Rails,
Polished Bug Catcher with red blades, Installation Kit
Holley EFI System
Disassemble Engine and Evaluate
Block Labor - Bore & Hone Cylinders with Deck Plate Block Labor -
Install Cam Bearings Cylinder Head Labor - Clean and grind valves, valve job, set installed heights, wash & assemble Crankshaft Labor - Balance Connecting Rod Labor - Pin Fit Assemble Engine Complete with Blower & EFI System
Dyno Test Engine
 
I run a pushbutton 727 with close to 875hp. As of now it even still has the factory low roller. Aftermarket drum, stock shafts. 200 passes in the low 9's. Buttons are moved to the right side for roll cage clearance.
Doug
 

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I like the idea of moving to the right side DVW. I'll keep that in mind during tear down.
 
Woke up this morning and decided to do some disassembly, a friend stopped by at about 9:30 and by 11:30 had the bottom dropped out. That included a coffee break around 10:30. So easy to work on these cars. still don't have an ETA and the engine from Barton, that's OK. no hurry...
 

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now I'm feeling lazy, thanks...LOL
 
Nice work! What did you do the rest of the day? :beerchug:
 
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